Peter’s 5-star review:
Hello, still favorite restaurant.
It's been six years since Battersby first opened in our neighborhood, and I love it a bit more each time I visit (like an anti-Jersey). Which is often; this is easily the restaurant I've been to the most in the past six months. As such, I feel comfortable telling you that this is the rare eatery that has never let me down. I have not only never had a bad dish, but I have also never been disappointed with the service, with the vibe, or with anything at all.
It is small, it is cozy, it is the best dinner date place I know. There are a limited number of seats (26 I believe?), but you'll never feel cramped (provided you're used to dining in NYC, and you aren't particularly huge).
The cocktails are unfailingly well executed; I like the Electric Blanket lately, as it has been cold, but don't be afraid to go off menu or to order a classic. I've never been sad with a martini or an old fashioned. If you're leaning toward wine or beer, both lists are carefully chosen and your bartender will be able to recommend a great pairing.
Of course, the food.
As I said previously, Battersby is offering up absolutely unimpeachable contemporary American flavors on their short, superb menu. This hasn't changed. After you order, you will most likely start (in winter) with an amuse bouche of butternut squash soup or some other savory treat, and then you'll receive their house focaccia, served with whipped ricotta and sprinkled with sea salt and rosemary. It is the fucking best. You should try not eat the entire thing, because there will be sensational sauces to sop up later (but you will probably fail, if your willpower is anything like mine).
Don't worry that the bread might be the best part of your meal. I used to. And it would be entirely possible anywhere else, but everything is good. This is all the more impressive because honestly, the dishes don't always sound appetizing. The descriptions are spare, and the combinations not always inherently appealing. Without fail though, everything is executed perfectly, the chefs coax every bit of love out of the few ingredients listed, and the balance of flavors is impeccable.
Fish or meat will arrive flawlessly cooked, thoughtfully accompanied, and the overall dish will be better than you thought. If the grass-fed strip steak seems a bit too pricey because you've been coming here every week and your bank account is looking quite sad, don't feel too bad. You can always make a meal of their pasta, which is NEVER a bad option.
I'm sure the menu is about to change again for spring, but if you haven't had the Agnolotti here with its ridiculously rich and perfect caramelized onion broth, my wife wants to slap you across the face. She dreams about this dish, and whenever I can steal a few savory bites of that pillowy pasta away from her, I remember why.
Personally, I find the Ricotta Cavatelli to edge it out ever so slightly in terms of what I crave. This superbly crafted dish is, in ingredients, not unlike what you could get at any number of Italian restaurants in the neighborhood. But it's simply much, much better. The textures, the flavors...the generous portion of sausage, the bits of broccoli rabe, the rich, cheesy sauce...it's elevated comfort food, if that wasn't an overused term to describe lobster mac and cheese.
For my money, the Romaine Salad (essentially the best Caesar you ever had), the house focaccia, and the larger portion of the cavatelli (or the fettuccine bolognese if it's on the menu) is the perfect meal, provided you throw in a cocktail and maybe a nice glass of red.
Clearly, I have a lot to say about Battersby. Let me tell you why:
Battersby had a sister restaurant on Court Street, Dover, that recently closed. We were heartbroken, as we loved Dover as well. Unfortunately, it was just a little too far from our place to dine there regularly, but we deeply regretted its loss. Since it shuttered, we've made a point of coming into Battersby almost as often as our calendars and wallets will permit. Dover's loss brought it sharply into focus that you've got to support the places you love, or you might lose them.
More importantly, YOU need to support the places that I love, or I might lose them (I'm more important than you; sorry to be the one to break it to you).
The upside of this for you is that Battersby is fantastic. You might be intimidated by the fact that they don't take reservations unless you plan on doing a tasting menu (which in all honesty keeps us from coming in with friends more than we do, as we aren't sure if a four-top will be available). But you can walk in, sit at the bar, and order a la carte most weekdays without a problem.
This place stands head and shoulders above most of the restaurants on Smith Street, but if you don't go next Tuesday, it might close somewhere down the line. And I'm going to be very angry with you if that happens.
You wouldn't like me when I'm angry.