Lost Arrow Spire | |
---|---|
Highest point | |
Elevation | 6,930 ft (2,110 m) |
Coordinates | 37°45′22″N119°35′35″W / 37.75600°N 119.593°W [1] |
Geography | |
Location | Yosemite National Park |
Parent range | Sierra Nevada |
Geology | |
Age of rock | Cretaceous |
Mountain type | granite rock |
Lost Arrow Spire is a detached pillar in Yosemite National Park, in Yosemite Valley, California, located immediately adjacent to Upper Yosemite Falls. The structure includes the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney route which is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America . [2] The spire is the location for a dramatic and famous Tyrolean traverse, which has since become an equally notable slackline.
In 1946, the spire was first summited by lassoing the tip from the main valley rim wall, 125-feet away, after which 29-year old Ax Nelson prusiked the lassoed line to the peak, followed by Jack Arnold. Steve Roper called it "one of the greatest rope stunts ever pulled off in climbing history", climbers did not recognize it as a true rock climbing ascent with Nelson saying: "Spectacular and effective though [it] was, this maneuver required very little real climbing". [3] [4] [5]
That same year, 48-year old Swiss immigrant, John Salathé, had also been attempting the spire and had invented a major improvement to the climbing piton using the alloy used for the Ford Model A axle, which would be able to endure the compact granite of Yosemite without buckling (called Lost Arrows). [3]
Lost Arrow Spire Chimney | |
---|---|
Location | California, USA |
Coordinates | 37°45′22″N119°35′35″W / 37.75600°N 119.593°W |
Climbing area | Yosemite Valley |
Route type | Aid, Traditional |
Vertical gain | 1,400 feet |
Pitches | 10 |
Rating | 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2 |
First ascent | Salathé, Nelson, 1947. |
First free ascent | Jerry Moffatt, 1985. |
In 1947, Ax Nelson and John Salathé joined forces, and using Salathé's new pitons, made the true first ascent via the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney (5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2), a route that combined both traditional climbing and aid climbing techniques, and took the pair 5 days. [3]
The route is listed in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and is considered a classic. [6] [7] [8] Climbing historian Steve Roper called the ascent, "a true Valley milestone: the first big-wall climb ever done in the United States - and without a doubt the beginning of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing". [9]
In June 1985, Jerry Moffatt did the first free ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire Chimney with Ron Kauk, as a live television event with an audience of over 30 million for ABC's Wide World of Sports . [10]
In 2020, a six-year-old child named Sam Baker climbed the spire alongside his father. [11]
The last two pitches of Lost Arrow Spire Chimney are called the Lost Arrow Spire Tip (5.12b or 5.7 C2) and complete the detached portion of the spire. The first free ascent of the Tip was in 1984 by a team led by Dave Shultz. The Tip route is often reached by rappelling into an area known as The Notch. Once the route is completed climbers can return to the main wall via a dramatic and famous Tyrolean traverse.
Lost Arrow Spire was to become one of the early hotspots for highlining, the version of slacklining in very high places. [12] The line is typically 17-meters long and is 880-meters above the valley floor, and has a downhill (walking towards the Spire) and an uphill (walking away from the Spire) direction. [13]
The first person to perform a slackline to the Lost Arrow Spire was Scott Balcom on July 13, 1985; he used a safety leash. [14] [15] The first female to perform the feat was Libby Sauter on July 17, 2007; she also used a safety leash. [14]
In 1995, Darrin Carter became the first person to perform a slackline to the Lost Arrow Spire without any safety leash, called a "free solo" slackline, which he did on the downhill version; he was also only the second person after Balcom to complete a Lost Arrow Spire slackline. [14] In 2003, Dean Potter became the first person to perform a "free solo" slackline in both downhill and uphill directions; Potter was only the second person to complete a "free solo" Lost Arrow Spire slackline after Carter. [14]
Half Dome is a quartz monzonite batholith at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, California. It is a well-known rock formation in the park, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer face while the other three sides are smooth and round, making it appear like a dome cut in half. It stands at nearly 8,800 feet above sea level and is composed of quartz monzonite, an igneous rock that solidified several thousand feet within the Earth. At its core are the remains of a magma chamber that cooled slowly and crystallized beneath the Earth's surface. The solidified magma chamber was then exposed and cut in half by erosion, therefore leading to the geographic name Half Dome.
El Capitan is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is about 3,000 feet (914 m) from base to summit along its tallest face and is a world-famous location for big wall climbing, including the disciplines of aid climbing, free climbing, and more recently for free solo climbing.
A piton in big wall climbing and in aid climbing is a metal spike that is driven into a crack or seam in the climbing surface using a climbing hammer, and which acts as an anchor for protecting the climber from falling or to assist progress in aid climbing. Pitons are equipped with an eye hole or a ring to which a carabiner is attached; the carabiner can then be directly or indirectly connected to a climbing rope.
Steve Roper is a noted climber and historian of the Sierra Nevada in the United States. He along with Allen Steck are the founding editors of the Sierra Club journal Ascent.
Slacklining is walking, running or balancing along a suspended length of flat webbing that is tensioned between two anchors. Slacklining is similar to slack rope walking and tightrope walking. Slacklines differ from tightwires and tightropes in the type of material used and the amount of tension applied during use. Slacklines are tensioned significantly less than tightropes or tightwires in order to create a dynamic line which will stretch and bounce like a long and narrow trampoline. Tension can be adjusted to suit the user, and different webbing may be used in various circumstances.
Warren Harding was one of the most accomplished and influential American big wall climbers and aid climbers of the 1950s to 1970s. He was the leader of the first team to climb El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, in 1958. The route they climbed, known as The Nose, ascends 2,900 feet (880 m) up the central buttress of what is one of the largest granite monoliths in the world. Harding made many first ascents in Yosemite, some 28 in all, including The Wall of Early Morning Light.
The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome was the first Grade VI big wall climbing route in the United States. It was first climbed in 1957 by a team consisting of Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, and Jerry Gallwas. Its current aid climbing rating is VI 5.9 A1 or 5.12 for the free climbing variation. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.
John Salathé was a Swiss-born American pioneering rock climber, blacksmith, and the inventor of the modern steel piton. In his later years he promoted Christian spiritualism and vegetarianism.
Thomas John Higgins was an American rock climber with many first and first free ascents primarily in the western United States. He was noted for pushing standards using a purist, free climbing style.
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America is a 1979 climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a classic piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark Kroese's Fifty Favorite Climbs. Though much of the book's contents are now out of date, it is still recognized as a definitive text which goes beyond the traditional guidebook.
The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.
Lover's Leap is a steep granite cliff band in El Dorado County, California, United States, a landmark which catches the eye as one travels by, and a popular destination for climbers. The origin of its name is unknown, but common to most Lover's Leaps, one version from local folklore says two Native Americans lovers leapt to their deaths from the summit.
The Salathé Wall is one of the original big wall climbing routes up El Capitan, a 3,000-foot (900 m) high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The Salathé Wall was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and is considered a classic around the world.
The Steck-Salathé Route is a big wall traditional climbing route up Sentinel Rock.
The Royal Arches Route is a big wall climbing route in California's Yosemite Valley on the Royal Arches wall. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The route was first climbed Oct. 1936 by Ken Adam, Morgan Harris, K. Kenneth Davis. The route is moderate in difficulty and is frequently climbed. The first 4 pitches are along a west-facing dihedral. At Pitch 5, the route turns north and ascends the main face along crack systems. Pitch 10 can be free climbed at 5.10b however, most climbers use a fixed rope to pendulum to a long ledge. At the end of Pitch 15, begins the bolted rappel route. It is 18 rappels to the Valley floor. Some climbers prefer to continue to "The Jungle" at the end of Pitch 16. Beyond The Jungle is a 5.4 slab and 4th Class scrambling to the Valley Rim. The descent is usually accomplished by traversing northeast to Washington Column and descending the exposed North Dome Gully.
Jules Marquard Eichorn was an American mountaineer, environmentalist, and music teacher.
Allen Parker Steck was an American mountaineer and rock climber.
Thomas "Tom" M. Frost was an American rock climber known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley. He was also a photographer and climbing equipment manufacturer. Frost was born in Hollywood, California, and died in Oakdale, California.
Charles Marshall Pratt was an American rock climber known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley. He was also a long-time climbing instructor and mountain guide with Exum Mountain Guides in the Grand Tetons.
Jerry Gallwas is an American rock climber active in the 1950s during the dawn of the Golden Age of Yosemite Rock Climbing. He achieved a number of pioneering first ascents including sandstone spires in the American Southwest, and the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick in 1957. Gallwas made his own heat-treated chrome-molybdenum steel alloy pitons, which contributed to the success of the climb.