CN102366395B - Astringent composition containing skin amendment and water-soluble silicone wax and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Astringent composition containing skin amendment and water-soluble silicone wax and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN102366395B
CN102366395B CN 201110294793 CN201110294793A CN102366395B CN 102366395 B CN102366395 B CN 102366395B CN 201110294793 CN201110294793 CN 201110294793 CN 201110294793 A CN201110294793 A CN 201110294793A CN 102366395 B CN102366395 B CN 102366395B
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skin
extract
composition
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CN102366395A (en
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沈伟良
张丽华
姚国英
何丹
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Ou Shi Overflows Biological Co Ltd
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沈志荣
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Abstract

The invention belongs to an astringent composition for stabilizing the skin and balancing the acid-base properties of the skin and a preparation method thereof. According to the astringent composition containing a skin amendment and water-soluble silicone wax, the composition comprises the following components calculated in percentage by mass: (a) 0.01 to 30 percent of humectant; (b) 0.01 to 10 percent of water-soluble silicone wax; (c) 0.01 to 8 percent of hydrophilic surfactant; (d) 0.01 to 5 percent of water-soluble high molecular polymer, wherein the water-soluble high molecular polymer is used for providing the viscosity of 500 to 100000mPa*s to an astringent; (e) 0.01 to 20 percent of skin amendment; and (f) 10 to 90 percent of deionized water. The composition can be used for replenishing water to the skin, softening the skin, filling the skin with elasticity and also improving the skin quality, so that the skin acquires a completely new outlook.

Description

A kind of astringent composition and method of making the same that comprises skin conditioning agent and water-soluble silicon wax
Technical field
The invention belongs to the astringent composition and method of making the same of a kind of stable skin, balance skin Acidity of Aikalinity.
Background technology
Since the quickening of modern people's rhythm of life, and be subjected to various environmental effects, and the speed of skin aging is increasing.Too much sebum secretion blocks pore, causes cutin slightly thick.Computer radiate makes skin dim, tarnish.Wind, the loss of moisture of skin.
Chinese invention patent application (application number: 200910010837.3 applyings date: 2009-03-24) disclose a kind of skincare humectant.It is made of according to the following number of weight ratio following component: the skin protection base material: natural dimethylamino proline acid: glycerol: Mel: shea butter: vitamin E=80-120: 5-12: 1-3: 10-20: 1-3: 2-4.This invention contains shea butter, glycerol, Mel isoreactivity nourishing moisturizing composition, can help rapidly to moisten dry skin, makes the skin exquisiteness soft and smooth.
Chinese invention patent application (application number: 200710150410.4 applyings date: 2007-11-26) disclose a kind of cosmetic humectant that contains xylitol, it is comprised of the raw material of following portions by weight: 2-10 part wetting agent, 0.1-2 part oils and fats, emulsifying agent 5-15 part, 60～80 parts in water.The cosmetic humectant of this invention can more deeply be diffused into the skin depths, is combined with deep water, keeps the moist of skin.
Summary of the invention
In order to reduce losing of moisture, an object of the present invention is to provide a kind of astringent compositions that comprises skin conditioning agent and water-soluble silicon wax, said composition can keep the skin wet to skin, soft skin, make skin be full of elasticity, and improve skin quality, skin is taken on an entirely new look.Another one purpose of the present invention provides a kind of preparation method of above-mentioned astringent compositions.
In order to realize above-mentioned first purpose, the present invention has adopted following technical scheme:
A kind of astringent compositions that comprises skin conditioning agent and water-soluble silicon wax, described compositions comprises following component by mass percentage:
(a) 0.01% to 30% wetting agent;
(b) 0.01% to 10% water-soluble silicon wax;
(c) 0.01% to 8% hydrophilic surfactant active;
(d) 0.01% to 5% high molecular weight water soluble polymer, described high molecular weight water soluble polymer provide 500 to 100000mPas viscosity for described astringent;
(e) 0.01% to 20% skin conditioning agent; With
(f) 10% to 90% deionized water.
As preferably, described compositions comprises following component by mass percentage:
(a) 1% to 20% wetting agent;
(b) 0.01% to 10% water-soluble silicon wax;
(c) 0.01% to 8% hydrophilic surfactant active;
(d) 0.01% to 5% high molecular weight water soluble polymer, described high molecular weight water soluble polymer provide 500 to 100000mPas viscosity for described astringent;
(e) 0.01% to 20% skin conditioning agent; With
(f) 10% to 90% deionized water.
As preferred again, described compositions comprises following component by mass percentage:
(a) 2% to 20% wetting agent;
(b) 0.01% to 10% water-soluble silicon wax;
(c) 0.01% to 8% hydrophilic surfactant active;
(d) 0.01% to 5% high molecular weight water soluble polymer, described high molecular weight water soluble polymer provide 500 to 100000mPas viscosity for described astringent;
(e) 0.01% to 20% skin conditioning agent; With
(f) 10% to 90% deionized water.
As preferably, above-mentioned wetting agent is selected from propylene glycol, sorbitol, butanediol, 1, one or more of 2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, pentanediol, Polyethylene Glycol, what be preferred for this compositions is glycerol, 1,2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol.
As preferably, above-mentioned hydrophilic surfactant active is polyacrylamide polymers preferably, especially the polyacrylamide polymers of nonionic is more preferably with the non-ionic polymers of CTFA called after polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7.
As preferably, above-mentioned thickening agent is selected from the synthetic high molecular polymer of carboxylic acid polyalcohol, cross-linked polyacrylate polymer, cellulose ethers, natural high molecular polymer, the synthetic high molecular polymer of cellulose ethers is preferably more preferably pressed the material of CTFA called after hydroxyethyl-cellulose.
As preferably, above-mentioned skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more in hydrolyzed pearl, hyaluronate sodium, chamomile extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed pearl, hyaluronate sodium, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract and the Radix Ginseng extract.
As preferably, above-mentioned composition has also comprised one or more in food coloring, antiseptic, essence and the solubilizing agent.
The present composition also can comprise various other compositions.The function of the concrete composition of compositions of the present invention and effect will be described in more detail below.
Wetting agent
Among the present invention by weight approximately 0.01% to 20% wetting agent be polyhydric alcohol, compositions described herein preferably comprises by weight of the composition approximately 1% to 20%, the wetting agent of 2%-20% more preferably, example comprises propylene glycol, sorbitol, butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, pentanediol, Polyethylene Glycol, and their mixture, what be preferred for this compositions is glycerol, 1,2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol.
Water-soluble silicon wax
Water-soluble silicon wax among the present invention is a kind of water miscible organosilicon ethylene glycol copolymer wax, and fusing point is lower.Its advantage has been to remove the viscosity of general cosmetic composition, and has improved the texture of other compositions, and 20 experts have carried out under the sensory evaluation harmony in the exterior such as Fig. 1～shown in Figure 7 to the multiple cosmetic composition that contains and do not contain this water-soluble silicon wax.
The intermiscibility test result
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
This sensory evaluation scheme is followed the method that the E18.03.01 of ASTM committee advises aspect sensory evaluation.In this scheme, 20 personnel that were subjected to professional training are by estimating the skinfeel characteristic of raw material and formulation product to the description of several organoleptic parameters quantitative analyses.
The hydrophilic surfactant active
Hydrophilic surfactant active in this invention compositions is polyacrylamide polymers preferably, especially the polyacrylamide polymers of nonionic, these polymer more preferably with the non-ionic polymers of CTFA called after polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, derive from France match Bicc Public Ltd. Co with commodity sepigel305 by name.Hydrophilic surfactant plays dispersion, solubilising and osmosis, also has certain thickening capabilities.
Thickening agent
In some embodiments, compositions of the present invention can also comprise one or more thickening agents, and if present, described compositions comprises by weight of the composition approximately 0.01% to 5%, preferably be about 0.01% to 4%, more preferably from about 0.01% to 3% thickening agent.
The non-limiting kind of thickening agent comprises and is selected from following material: carboxylic acid polyalcohol (such as Carbopol 980), cross-linked polyacrylate polymer, synthetic high molecular polymer (such as cellulose ethers), natural high molecular polymer (such as natural gum), cellulose ethers preferably, more preferably press the material of CTFA called after hydroxyethyl-cellulose, this material is sold with trade name Natrosol 250HHR by Aqualon Corporation.
Skin conditioning agent
The various skin conditioner that the present composition adds is chamomile extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed pearl, hyaluronate sodium, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract and Radix Ginseng extract.
The content of the Flos Chrysanthemi extract that the present composition adds is preferably approximately 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 0.01% to 10%, the active quantities of the Flos Chrysanthemi extract of the present composition is preferred approximately 0.001% to 10% by weight of the composition, and more preferably from about 0.001% to 5%.
The chamomile extract that the present composition adds contains flavone compound, aminoacid, macroelement and trace element, also contains micro-ellagic acid, adenine, choline, echinacoside, vitamin E etc., and other has chlorogenic acid, quinovic acid-4-coffee ester etc.This Flos Matricariae chamomillae extract has antiinflammatory, sterilization, antioxidation.The Chrysan Yellow ketone compounds has the ability of removing free radical and superoxide anion, can obviously suppress the lipid peroxidation that the D2 galactose causes, reduce MDA content, MAO vigor in the blood, improve SOD, GSH-PX vigor in the blood, enhancing body is to the scavenging action of free radical, alleviate superoxide anion to biomembranous damage, delaying senility course.
The Flos Chrysanthemi extract of the present composition can be followed the example of by hot water extraction method, alcohol extraction, ultrasonic extraction and microwave extraction method make.
The allantoin of the present composition is a kind of amphoteric compound, can form double salt in conjunction with many kinds of substance.The content of the allantoin that the present composition adds is preferably approximately 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, and more preferably from about 0.01% to 10%.
Above-mentioned allantoin has shading, sterilization and anticorrosion, pain relieving, antioxidation, can make skin keep moisture content, moistens and soft, is the additive of the cosmetics such as cosmetology.The cosmetics that add allantoin have protective tissue, hydrophilic, absorb water and the effect such as prevent that moisture from distributing; Make skin softness and high resilience, and beautiful gloss is arranged.Allantoin can also promote tissue growth, cell metabolism, soften cuticle albumen.The content of natural allantoin is very low because traditional handicraft is extracted from natural animal-plant, complex process, cost are too high, can't use on a large scale, therefore the existing main chemical synthesis that adopts is extracted synthetic allantoin, such as carbamide glyoxalic acid direct condensing method, acetic acid acid calcium salt acid-soluble method, carbamide dichloroacetic acid heating, oxalic acid electrolysis oxidation of glyoxal, Chloral synthetic method etc.
The hydrolyzed pearl of the present composition, the weighing scale that its content is pressed the present composition approximately 0.01% to 20%, preferably be about 0.01% to 15%, be more preferably 0.01% to 10%, the weighing scale that its active matter content is pressed the present composition approximately 0.001% to 10%, preferred approximately 0.001% to 8%, more preferably from about 0.001% to 5%.
The hydrolyzed pearl of the present composition is that the enzymolysis process by Margarita powder obtains, and contains a large amount of calcium ions and pearl protein, has the elimination oxygen-derived free radicals, anti-aging effects, and light speckle makes the beautiful gloss of skin.
The hyaluronate sodium of the present composition is the glutinous sugar of a kind of bionical thing, and molecular weight is greater than 1,000,000, and the hyaluronic acid sodium content of the present composition is by invention composition weight meter approximately 0.01% to 10%, and is preferred approximately 0.01% to 5%, is more preferably 0.01% to 3%.
Contain 10% to 20% moisture in the normal human skin horny layer, it prevents skin aging, prevents that the various stimulations of external environment from having significant role skin care.With advancing age or environmental evolution, moisture can drop to below 10%, and skin can be dry, produces wrinkle.The hyaluronate sodium of the present composition can be alleviated this problem, and its theoretical water retention value reaches 1000ml/g, is the key component of water conservation in the human body skin, and not only moistening effect is good, and without greasy feeling and stop up pore etc. shortcoming.Can also eliminate oxygen-derived free radicals, repair the skin of damage after shining.
Cocoa in the present composition/Sargassum composite extract, it is a mixed extract, the weighing scale that its content is pressed the present composition approximately 0.01% to 20%, preferably be about 0.01% to 15%, be more preferably 0.01% to 10%, the weighing scale that its active matter content is pressed the present composition approximately 0.001% to 10%, preferred approximately 0.001% to 8%, more preferably from about 0.001% to 5%.
The cocoa of the present composition/Sargassum composite extract is the natural plants source, and the cocoa extract contains caffeine, theobromine isoreactivity composition, has antioxidation, antibacterial action, and activating cell makes fragile muscle and skin white light pool.Sargassum extract contains special polysaccharide, protein, lipid, pigment and lower-molecular substance; also contain taurine, methionine, cystine and derivant thereof etc., can make skin give gloss, can safeguard that epithelial cell grows up healthy and sound; reduce pigmentation, also have antibacterial action.
Radix Ginseng extract in the present composition, the weighing scale that its content is pressed the present composition approximately 0.01% to 20%, preferably be about 0.01% to 15%, be more preferably 0.01% to 10%, the weighing scale that its active matter content is pressed the present composition approximately 0.001% to 10%, preferred approximately 0.001% to 8%, more preferably from about 0.001% to 5%.
The Radix Ginseng extract of the present composition for the natural plants source, contains Saponin, protein, aminoacid, saccharide, vitamins, organic acid and various trace elements etc.Contained Radix Ginseng Saponin in the Radix Ginseng extract can significantly improve the content of hydroxyproline in the skin, makes the skin delicacy smooth, prevents wrinkle.The contained protein synthesis factor in the Radix Ginseng extract can increase skin elasticity.Contained aminoacid can improve blood circulation and metabolism, and skin obtains required nutrition and moistens delicate.
As preferred again, described compositions is made of following component by mass percentage:
Deionized water 50～80%
Glycerol 2.0～16.0%
Butanediol 0～6.0%
Propylene glycol 0～6.0%
Allantoin 0.5～4.0%
Hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.2～1.0%
Hyaluronate sodium 0.2～1.6%
Carbopol 940*1 0～0.5%
Water-soluble silicon wax 0.1～10%
Chamomile extract 0～20%
Hydrolyzed pearl 0～4.0%
1,2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol 0～2.0%
Cocoa/Sargassum composite extract 0～2.0%
Radix Ginseng extract 0～4.0%
Essence 0～0.5%
Antiseptic 0～1.0%
Solubilizing agent 0～0.5%
Pigment 0～1.0%
Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 0.1～1.6%;
It is not 0 that above-mentioned hydrolyzed pearl, chamomile extract, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract and Radix Ginseng extract have a kind of at least.
In order to realize second above-mentioned purpose, the present invention has adopted following technical scheme:
A kind of preparation method for preparing the above-mentioned astringent compositions that comprises skin conditioning agent and water-soluble silicon wax, the method comprises the steps:
1) water, allantoin, glycerol, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hyaluronate sodium mix, and are heated to 75～85 ℃, dissolve complete;
Add water-soluble silicon wax, chamomile extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed pearl, hyaluronate sodium, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract, Radix Ginseng extract, pigment, antiseptic, essence, 1 when 2) being cooled to 50 ℃, 2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol and solubilizing agent stir;
3) the rear adding polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 that stirs, rapid stirring 5 minutes filters discharging;
4) storage → inspection of semifinished product → fill → product inspection → warehouse-in.
The present invention is owing to having adopted above-mentioned technical scheme, and product can keep the skin wet to skin after use, and soft skin makes skin be full of elasticity, and improves skin quality, and skin is taken on an entirely new look.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is that sticky property evaluation map-water-soluble silicon wax and test substances ratio are 1: 3.
Fig. 2 is that wax sense evaluation map-water-soluble silicon wax and test substances ratio are 1: 3.
Fig. 3 is that emulsion viscosity evaluation map-water-soluble silicon wax and test substances ratio are 1: 3.
Fig. 4 is that spreadability evaluation map-water-soluble silicon wax and test substances ratio are 1: 3.
Fig. 5 is that smoothness evaluation map-water-soluble silicon wax and test substances ratio are 1: 3.
Fig. 6 is that greasy evaluation Tu – water-soluble silicon wax and test substances ratio are 1: 3.
Fig. 7 is water-soluble silicon wax sensory evaluation figure.
The specific embodiment
Preparation process of the present invention is the state that each composition is mixed to the comparison homogeneous, and step is:
1. water, allantoin, glycerol, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hyaluronate sodium mix, and are heated to about 80 ℃ dissolve complete;
2. add water-soluble silicon wax, chamomile extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed pearl, hyaluronate sodium, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract, Radix Ginseng extract, pigment, antiseptic, essence, 1 when being cooled to 50 ℃, 2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol and solubilizing agent stir;
3. the rear adding polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 that stirs, rapid stirring 5 minutes filters discharging;
4. storage → the inspection of semifinished product → fill → product inspection → warehouse-in.
Specific embodiment:
Figure 930105DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
* 1. carbomers derive from Lubrizol
* 2. couples-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane derives from Dowcorning
Mutually 1 put into container and mix, be heated to 80 ℃, stirring and dissolving is complete; Be cooled to 50 ℃, add phase 2, stir; Add again phase 3, rapid stirring 5 minutes, mix homogeneously, discharging.
Method of testing:
In order to test moisturizing cosmetic result of the present invention, carried out investigation experiment on probation:
1, respondent: each department ordinary consumer 30 people, 20 parts of the trial state feedback forms of regaining at last.
2, control time: on October 20th, 1 2007 on August 20th, 2007.
3, use product: No. 1 product is the product for preparing according to prescription of the present invention; No. 2 products are the rival factory similar products.
4, method of testing: after the tester face cleaning, about respectively No. 1 product and No. 2 products being coated on two cheek, observe and experience result of use.
5, the test form is as follows:
The use of No. 1 product of table 1 (60 days) feedback conclusive table
Figure 2011102947939100002DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
No. 2 products of table 2 use (60 days) feedback conclusive table
Figure 384089DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
No. 1 product of table 3 and No. 2 products improve the contrast statistical table of the colour of skin
Figure 2011102947939100002DEST_PATH_IMAGE005
The statistical table of table 4 tester recommended products model
Proposed model No. 1 No. 2
The recommendation number 18 2
Percentage ratio 90% 10%
6, feedback conclusion:
The tester all represents, all is better than No. 2 product in the moisture-retaining capacity of No. 1 product and the sticky sense, and moisturizing is lasting, and does not have special sticky sense; Aspect horny layer softening, both evaluations are identical; In test process, although No. 1 product absorb and the effect of compacting on, slightly inferior, most consumers thinks that No. 1 product moisture-retaining capacity is stronger, and is improving aspect the colour of skin especially outstandingly, all No. 1 product is expressed one's approval; And there is not the people that allergic phenomena is arranged in the questionnaire that reclaims.
As shown in Table 5, No. 1 product of people's recommendation of 90% only has No. 2 products of people's recommendation of 10%.

Claims (2)

1. astringent compositions that comprises skin conditioning agent and water-soluble silicon wax is characterized in that described compositions is made of following component by mass percentage:
Composition % by weight Deionized water 50～80 Glycerol 2.0～16.0 Butanediol 0～6.0 Propylene glycol 0～6.0 Allantoin 0.5～4.0 Hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.2～1.0 Hyaluronate sodium 0.2～1.6 Carbopol 940 0～0.5 Two-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane 0.1～10 Chamomile extract 0～20 Hydrolyzed pearl 0～4.0 1,2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol 0～2.0 Cocoa/Sargassum composite extract 0～2.0 The Radix Ginseng extract 0～4.0 Essence 0～0.5 Antiseptic 0～1.0 Solubilizing agent 0～0.5 Pigment 0～1.0 Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 0.1～1.6
It is not 0 that above-mentioned hydrolyzed pearl, chamomile extract, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract and Radix Ginseng extract have a kind of at least.
2. one kind prepares the preparation method that comprises the astringent compositions of skin conditioning agent and water-soluble silicon wax claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that the method comprises the steps:
1) water, allantoin, glycerol, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hyaluronate sodium mix, and are heated to 75～85 ℃, dissolve complete;
Add water-soluble silicon wax, chamomile extract, allantoin, hydrolyzed pearl, hyaluronate sodium, cocoa/Sargassum composite extract, Radix Ginseng extract, pigment, antiseptic, essence, 1 when 2) being cooled to 50 ℃, 2-hexanediol/caprylyl glycol and solubilizing agent stir;
3) the rear adding polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7 that stirs, rapid stirring 5 minutes filters discharging;
4) storage → inspection of semifinished product → fill → product inspection → warehouse-in.
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