L'avis 5 étoiles de Peter
I go out to dinner a lot; more than anyone reasonably should. It is perhaps my favorite thing to do. It's why I've got a gut, and it's why I'm broke.* But as much as I eat out, I am not a regular anywhere. I have places I go back to, sure, but there is nowhere I regularly dine. That's why it was so out of character for me to go to Arcane two nights in a row.
We walked in on Saturday night, and it was LOUD. But in a fun, lively way. At times, it was annoying that I couldn't hear what my girlfriend was saying over the drunken party of 8 incoherently "singing." But overall, it was just a festive place filled with people having a good time.
The thing that stood out was how well-seasoned all the food was. Everything we ate was bursting with outstanding flavor, from the oil that was served with the warm, crusty bread, to her shrimp salad, to the fried calamari with their house marinara that tasted strongly of cilantro.
And ESPECIALLY my hanger steak with the delicious peppercorn sauce. Served with haricot vert or another side, it was honestly fantastic, despite being medium rather than medium rare. Normally $16, you can also order it as part of a $20 prix fixe from 5-7:30 every day. And it's a STEAL on Sunday nights at $10 (they have a $10 meal every night), which is why we decided to go back the next evening.
This time, she ordered the hanger steak. The fries were crispy and wonderful, as was the shallot sauce,** although she also ordered the peppercorn sauce after it arrived because it is certainly the better of the two.
I opted for the prix fixe, and started with the papaya salad, served with jicama and a sweet chili sauce. It was presented nicely in a red cabbage leaf; summery and refreshing, but with good heat. The Columbo de Porc was exactly as described, a "traditional French Caribbean pork curry stew." And although I enjoyed the tenderness of the pork, I envied her hanger steak the entire time. We ended the meal with a huge portion of tasty lemon sorbet, topped with mint as a perfect finishing touch.
If there is a drawback to Arcane, it would be the service. On Saturday night, the waitress was just overworked. She was covering the entire, packed dining room, which although small, is too big for one server. We sat for 15 minutes before she asked us if we wanted tap water, then disappeared. The hostess and bartender ended up bringing us water and then drinks.
On Sunday night, I think they bring out the B Team. We were one of two tables in the place, and this woman couldn't handle it. I really don't think she's ever waited tables before. We were seated next to the hostess stand, and we repeated our order to her as she entered it into the computer, and she still forgot a side.*** And after she ran my card (AMEX only), she disappeared without giving me a pen to sign my check.
But you know what? I don't care. Because this steak frites, at $10 on Sunday, could very well be the best, most delicious deal in Manhattan. Apparently brunch is also $10, including a cocktail AND coffee. As the governor says, I'll be back.
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*As a joke.
**It's not really a sauce so much as shallots that were marinated in some sort of red wine reduction. You can't pour it out of it's little container.
***We wanted to try the banana gratin. I still don't know what that's like, and it pains me.