If you’re interested in playing a game of fantasy fashion (as opposed to football), you could check out Sotheby’s Fashion Icons sale, going live at 10 a.m. on November 27, and try to guess the sums that will bring the hammer down on the various lots. Among them are a belted Prada coat and an hourglass Yohji Yamamoto jacket worn by Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, an eternal style icon, and one who incorporated vintage into her wardrobe. A faux leopard fur coat, circa 1969, she owned is also up for sale.
As for firsts, there’s a luxurious sequin and fur-trimmed evening couture ensemble from Karl Lagerfeld’s debut at Chanel, and a frock coat from John Galliano’s spring 1985 lineup, which was the designer’s first commercial offering, according to Sotheby’s fashion expert Lucy Bishop. Both Versaces are represented in the sale: Gianni is responsible for a black tweed column with logo buttons and skin-revealing cut-outs under the bustline; Donatella for a colorful, metal mesh mini that Paris Hilton once took out for a twirl. Another piece with pop culture resonance is Issey Miyake’s molded bustier from 1980, which Grace Jones often wore. Bringing in an art world element are accessories by Sonia Delaunay, an artist associated with the pre-war Orphism movement, whose work was celebrated earlier this year in an exhibition at the Bard Graduate Center.
Sotheby’s has given Vogue Runway early access to some of the lots, and Bishop has shared a few thoughts on the sale below.
What is the market like for collectible fashion now; has it been affected by the election, world events?
There has always been a market for museum-worthy and collectable fashion, but there has definitely been an increase in mainstream interest in this subject over the last few years. Fashion plays an enormous part in our everyday lives and people are always drawn to the subject, regardless of world events. I don’t believe the market for collectable fashion has been affected by the election or other events. The changes we see in the collectable fashion market are broader and emerge over a longer period of time. It is not as reactionary as the contemporary fashion industry is.
What trends have you observed in fashion collecting of late?
As time marches on, so does collectors’ interest and the demand for certain periods in time. At present, we are seeing a huge surge in interest in the 1990s and 2000s. John Galliano in particular is enjoying a resurrection: Academic and museum appreciation of his work has always remained high, but during the last three years in particular we have witnessed an almost frenzy-like level of interest in his work, with Hollywood stars clamoring to be photographed in archival Galliano.
How are rarity and provenance balancing out at the moment?
Rarity and provenance are the magic words at auction and as a fashion specialist, what I seek in a garment. Provenance is the X-factor that can provide an item with a remarkable and hard-to-predict surge in value at auction.
What is the rarest piece in the sale, in your opinion?
The rarest piece included in the sale is the John Galliano frock coat from his Afghanistan Repudiates collection of spring-summer 1985…his first major commercial collection after his degree show, and only a handful were made. This is Galliano at the very beginning: When you study the clever and imaginative construction of the coat, with its curving center back seam and exaggerated, elongated sleeves, you can see the beginning of his genius—the young designer who would go on to become one of the greatest of the 20th century.
Can you speak to the cult of CBK?
Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy remains the definitive style icon of the ’90s. She understood the power of dressing well in your everyday life. Her considered and minimalist style remains admired and emulated by women all over the world, including by a whole new generation who swoon over her looks on social media. She knew how to dress for any occasion, but she ultimately dressed for herself. She was entirely authentic, and it is this authenticity which is at the heart of her eternal allure.
Is there anything else you’d like Vogue readers to know about the sale?
The Fashion Icons sale celebrates the art of fashion and is the only one of its kind presented by an international auction house. This sale is a fashion enthusiast’s dream, showcasing the most influential figures, designers, and cultural moments. It will honor legendary individuals, unforgettable events, and unmatched creativity, all through the distinctive lens of fashion.
