10Best: Restaurants with a new twist on mac and cheese
Not to shatter childhood memories, but the best mac and cheese doesn’t come out of a blue box, at least according to Raf Miastkowski, who serves as a judge for Chicago’s Mac & Cheese Fest, held on Oct. 24. He says the dish, which originated in the 14th century, is more popular than ever. “Everybody’s having fun with it. People want to elevate it and make it more complex and exciting.” He shares some favorite restaurant versions across the country with Larry Bleiberg for USA TODAY.
The Old Fashioned
Madison, Wis.
It’s no surprise a curd-loving state like Wisconsin would know its way around a good mac and cheese. This downtown spot starts with locally made sharp cheddar, and parmesan-style SarVecchio, and is topped with crispy breadcrumbs. “This is a no-brainer. It’s like cheese central,” says Miastkowski, who also suggests rounding out the meal with a side order of ring bologna. 608-310-4545; theoldfashioned.com
Good Dog Bar
Philadelphia
This canine-themed eatery serves a rich, baked, deep-dish entree using a blend of three cheeses all topped off with a layer of corn flakes. “It adds a nice sweet crunch to the dish,” Miastkowski says. In addition, it comes with a side of blueberry corn bread — “a nice touch.” 215-985-9600; gooddogbar.com
AMK Kitchen Bar
Chicago
While his hometown has no shortage of mac masters, Miastkowski likes this up-and-comer in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood. It’s made with a tantalizing combination of asiago, provolone, gouda, fontina and havarti cheeses, topped with a jalapeño-bacon crust. “It’s an underrated spot now, but people need to check it out,” he says. 773-276-4400; amkchicago.com
Golden Beetle
Seattle
Just because it’s familiar, it doesn’t mean that mac and cheese can’t be sophisticated. This version, produced by a James Beard Award-winning chef, uses seasonal, organic locally-sourced ingredients, including kale, gluten-free penne and lamb sausage. On Mondays, the restaurant offers what it calls the “ultimate mac n cheese experience,” letting diners design their own dish, choosing pasta, sauce, vegetable and meat. 206-706-2977; golden-beetle.com
Queens Comfort
New York
There’s a wacky, mad-scientist edge to the menu at this outer borough spot, which offers several different takes on mac and cheese. For example, there’s a deep-fried item called Atomic Fire Balls made with sriracha sauce and served with a side of ranch dressing, and a version with smoked barbecue pulled pork and shoestring onions. “They like to take comfort foods from our childhood and make wacky dishes from them,” Miastkowski says. 718-728-2350; queenscomfort.com
Union Bar & Kitchen
Clarkston, Mich.
If the mac and cheese seems heavenly at this Michigan eatery, there’s a good reason. The restaurant occupies a former church. “It’s a homey place with picnic tables,” Miastkowski says. The dish, made with Vermont sharp cheddar and Pinconning, a mild colby-style cheese from Michigan, is layered with penne pasta, and a crunchy crust. 248-620-6100; clarkstonunion.com
Hillside Farmacy
Austin
This Lone Star take on the dish is richer than a Texas oilman. It comes coated in Mornay — a béchamel sauce thickened with cheeses. And to really gild the lily, you can add poached egg and pancetta, an Italian-cured bacon. “It’s totally worth it,” Miastkowski says. 512-628-0168; hillsidefarmacy.com
Cowbell
New Orleans
If a good mac and cheese starts with great ingredients, this Crescent City spot has it nailed. It starts with shallots, thyme and roasted poblano peppers, and uses spiral macaroni topped with a mix of cream, gruyere, aged white cheddar and parmesan. “The chef really knows what he’s doing,” says Miastkowski. 504-866-4222; cowbell-nola.com
Union Pig and Chicken
Pittsburgh
Miastkowski calls the meaty mac a “flavor bomb” thanks to the addition of brisket, crumbled blue cheese, and a touch of wasabi oil. “This is a bolder mac and cheese. It’s meaty, spicy and bold.” Available as a vegetarian version and as a side dish. 412-363-7675; unionpgh.com
Sweetie Pie’s
St. Louis
You can’t get more old-school than Velveeta, and for more than 40 years, this soul food institution has used the love-it-or-hate-it processed product in a mac and cheese that tastes like childhood, Miastkowski says. “This is a take on the kind of dish you can make at home, just better.” Just as famous is the restaurant’s founder Robbie Montgomery (“Miss Robbie”), who sang background for Ike and Tina Turner. 314-932-5364; sweetiepieskitchen.com