Meet the man growing 'super potatoes' in the Peruvian Andes
In the Peruvian Andes, Manuel Choqque Bravo has cultivated hundreds of hybrid varieties of tuber, including what he calls ‘super potatoes’.
“The potato was a sacred food for the Incas,” says Manuel Choqque Bravo, in a lilting accent characteristic of Peru’s Andean highlands. “For me and my family, it’s been important to rescue this ancestral knowledge and these varieties of potatoes.”
Hailing from Huatata, a town near Cusco, Manuel is a fourth-generation farmer, an agricultural engineer and a so-called potato whisperer. Working alongside his family, he manually cross-pollinates the vegetable to breed deeply pigmented varieties with impressive levels of minerals, vitamins and antioxidants. He’s cultivated more than 380 distinct hybrid varieties of tuber, including his signature ruby-red, indigo, amethyst and marigold potatoes.
“Today, we have a super potato that has 10 times as many antioxidants as a blueberry, five times as much vitamin C as citrus, high levels of iron and zinc, and two types of proteins,” he says. “We’re breaking the myths about what a potato is or can be. A papa nativa [Peruvian native potato] can be a superfood.”
Manuel’s efforts have earned him the respect of Peru’s culinary elite, with chefs from restaurants such as Central and Mérito (both in Lima) hailing his potatoes. Yet, he didn’t always foresee this life for himself, having first studied law at university before later switching to agricultural engineering. “I was quite young. Then, after all those years of intense scientific learning, I came home because I felt I was missing something. I felt that I had to do something with the potato.”
Today, Manuel also produces a fermented ‘wine’ made from oca, another type of tuber commonly referred to as a potato. He began experimenting with potato ‘wines’ in 2013, bottling his first attempts under the brand name Miskioca, and has just launched his second brand, Oxalis, which features red, white and rosé expressions.
Next, Manuel is turning his eye towards cultivating hardier, more resistant varieties of potato in response to the ways in which the Andean countryside is increasingly affected by climate change.
“Years ago, it was the lack of demand we were most concerned about,” he explains, “but now it’s a lack of production due to inconsistent rainfall. At some point, I’m going to have to start breeding hybrids that are resistant to these abrupt changes — droughts, frosts and the like. I feel that’s my calling.”
Where to find them
1. Mérito, Lima
At this compact restaurant, celebrated chef Juan Luis Martínez uses Miguel’s potatoes in dishes such as papa rellena (stuffed potato).
2. MIL, Maras
At Virgilio Martínez’s second outpost in Peru, three varieties of Manuel’s potatoes take centre stage in the Ande Central dish, a play on traditional Andean earthen-oven cooking.
3. La Niña, Lima
Located in trendy Miraflores, La Niña has three varieties of Manuel’s fermented potato ‘wine’ on the menu.
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Related Topics
You May Also Like
Go Further
Animals
- We finally know what caused Florida fish to spin in circles until they diedWe finally know what caused Florida fish to spin in circles until they died
- 5 clever animals that treat and prevent their own illnesses5 clever animals that treat and prevent their own illnesses
- What would the world look like without mosquitoes?What would the world look like without mosquitoes?
- Social media loves to villainize dolphins. Here's why it's wrong.Social media loves to villainize dolphins. Here's why it's wrong.
- How did wolves evolve into dogs? New fossils provide cluesHow did wolves evolve into dogs? New fossils provide clues
Environment
- This little bird tells the story of the East Coast’s disappearing marshesThis little bird tells the story of the East Coast’s disappearing marshes
- ‘Corn sweat’—and other weird weather phenomena—explained‘Corn sweat’—and other weird weather phenomena—explained
- A sea tornado sank a yacht. We might see them more often.A sea tornado sank a yacht. We might see them more often.
History & Culture
- Your favorite foods have surprising global originsYour favorite foods have surprising global origins
- How did ancient Egyptian obelisks end up all over the world?How did ancient Egyptian obelisks end up all over the world?
- What we’ve learned—and lost—since the Titanic wreck was foundWhat we’ve learned—and lost—since the Titanic wreck was found
- Did Babe Ruth really ‘call’ this legendary home run?Did Babe Ruth really ‘call’ this legendary home run?
- The real history behind the legend of China's Monkey KingThe real history behind the legend of China's Monkey King
Science
- 8 things we’ve learned about how alcohol harms the body8 things we’ve learned about how alcohol harms the body
- Is mouth taping the secret to a better night's sleep?Is mouth taping the secret to a better night's sleep?
- Mold is in your kitchen—and in places that might surprise youMold is in your kitchen—and in places that might surprise you
Travel
- This slave rebellion was almost lost to history–until nowThis slave rebellion was almost lost to history–until now
- Discover America's Oktoberfest capital: CincinnatiDiscover America's Oktoberfest capital: Cincinnati
- Here's what an astronaut has to say about space tourismHere's what an astronaut has to say about space tourism
- 4 of the best food experiences on Scotland's Isle of Skye4 of the best food experiences on Scotland's Isle of Skye