Rest and restore in western Nevada’s great outdoors
Follow National Geographic photographer Tara Kerzhner to the Silver State, where natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and tranquility combine to create the ideal escape.
Nevada has long been synonymous with thrilling escapades, but for travelers seeking a more peaceful, restorative respite, the western side of the state offers the perfect retreat.
Within about an hour’s drive of Reno-Tahoe International Airport, there are mountains to explore, lakes to paddle, and trails that speak to the soul. Here, landscapes tempt you to try something new or practice something familiar, and locals are happy to point you to a quiet spot all your own. A trip to western Nevada means never having to choose between relaxation, recovery, or renewal.
This fall, National Geographic photographer Tara Kerzhner returned to Nevada to capture the natural beauty and restorative power of the state’s western landscapes, discovering both—and more—in the communities of Genoa, Lake Tahoe, and Reno.
“There are so many peaceful places in this area of Nevada. It’s a region that makes rest and renewal feel effortless.”Tara Kerzhner, National Geographic Photographer
Relax in Genoa
Genoa (pronounced "Juh-NO-ah") is a historic destination that calls to those in search of authentic charm. The tiny town with a population of roughly 1,300 sits 42 miles south of Reno. You could easily drive past it, lost in the rolling pastures and ranches along the way, but Kerzhner believes this charming little town in the foothills of Carson Valley is well worth your time.
Nevada’s oldest settlement started as a trading post in 1851. Today, it remains a cluster of historic buildings and community gathering spots that offer visitors a picture-perfect experience at the edge of the Sierra Nevada range.
Kerzhner recommends starting, as she did, in one of the many mineral pools and hot springs that make up the area. (Nevada is actually home to more than 300 hot springs—more than any other state in the nation.) At David Walley’s Resort, condo-style accommodations are complemented by natural pools, soothing hot springs, and breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks—making any time of day ideal for a dip.
“I wish I could have spent more time in them. It was a beautiful day. The wind was blowing, and the fall leaves were flying through the air. I don’t think I’ve been to hot springs quite like that before.”Tara Kerzhner, National Geographic Photographer
After you’ve soaked your stress away, dry off and head to the town’s downtown district where, along with Genoa Antiques and Genoa Trading Company, you’ll find the famed Genoa Bar and Saloon. Nevada’s oldest "thirst parlor" (built in 1853) is as authentic as they come. The saloon boasts a rich history, and has welcomed a slew of famous visitors over the years, from Mark Twain to Clark Gable to Raquel Welch. Here you can sip on a saloon-famous Bloody Mary or join in on a friendly game of billiards. Before you leave, be sure to check out the original diamond-dust mirror found behind the bar. It was shipped from Scotland to San Francisco before traveling by covered wagon across the mountains. Fun fact: If you shine a flashlight on the mirror, the diamond dust encased within will sparkle right before your eyes.
“It’s a really cool local vibe,” says Kerzhner. “Here [in Genoa], you don’t really feel like you’re a tourist at all.”
Nearby, the quaint Mormon Station State Historic Park offers a broader historical perspective. The replica 1851 fort includes a trading post, blacksmith shop, and antique wagons to explore. A bit farther down the road, you’ll find The Nature Conservancy’s River Fork Ranch Preserve, a serene stretch of trails through 800 acres of golden grass wetlands that rise up to meet blue-tinged mountains. Popular with hikers, bikers, and runners, it’s also the place to spot western pond turtles, leopard frogs, and bald eagles in their natural habitats.
“It’s about five minutes from downtown Genoa, but it feels like you’re in a totally different place,” says Kerzhner of her dusk visit. “It was really quite striking, especially just how peaceful it was.”
That sense of calm stays with you even as you head out of town. Before you go, be sure to take note of the big red barn on historic Van Sickle Station Ranch. It’s been here since 1855. Owner Ginger Teig helms the 600-acre property along with her mother, Gail Teig—a family committed to protecting the town’s historical past.
“What I really saw in Genoa was how important the history of that town is to all of those people. I think that’s why that place has been so well preserved. It’s because it's so meaningful.”Tara Kerzhner, National Geographic Photographer
Restore in Lake Tahoe
Any day in Lake Tahoe, where clear, blue water peeks out between towering pines, is a good day. Fortunately, that’s pretty much every day here.
“Being on the lake is very serene,” says Kerzhner, who chose a clear kayak tour with Clearly Tahoe as her introduction to the area. “The water is super clear. You can see all the rocks on the bottom: I felt like I was inside a fish tank!”
While the lake is perfect in the summer, it’s also very popular—which means you’ll have to wake up early to find a beach site or parking spot. Visit in the fall for easy access to the lake and experiences that are both calming and awe-inspiring.
“I knew that it was going to be stunning, but this was at another level. When everything is quiet, and it’s just the water on paddles … it’s a sound you could fall asleep to.”Tara Kerzhner, National Geographic Photographer
The tour began at Sand Harbor State Park, where Kerzhner took in views of the lake’s scenic shoreline, along with notable places like Bonsai Rock, Thunderbird Lodge, and Chimney Beach. And when the temptation proved too much, paddlers beached their kayaks for a cool, refreshing dip.
Fresh and energized, Kerzhner headed for the mountains that surround Lake Tahoe. In the summer of 1983, renowned mountain biker and adventurer Max Jones forged a trail that’s arguably one of the most scenic in the world: the Flume Trail. Set 1,500 feet above Lake Tahoe, this 4.5-mile path is primarily used by mountain bikers who appreciate its winding routes, steep drops, and diverse terrain. Jones also started Flume Trail Tahoe, which offers bike and e-bike rentals, shuttle service, and expert advice to help more visitors experience the trail’s stunning views and challenging routes.
“Being up there, you do feel like you’re on quite an adventure in the mountains. It’s just such a special part of Nevada.”Tara Kerzhner, National Geographic Photographer
Wellness options abound in Lake Tahoe. Yogis and meditators will find Zen-worthy perches among the giant sun-drenched boulders at Hidden Beach. Those seeking a bit more adrenaline can hop on horseback with a guided tour from Zephyr Cove Stables. And if you’d rather move at the pace of your own two feet, the famed Monkey Rock Trailhead offers a great workout with calming views of shimmering waters and pine-covered peaks.
At the end of the day, pampering comes easy in one of the spacious rooms, upscale suites, or private waterfront cottages at the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort in North Tahoe. The North Tahoe location is a paradise for adventurers who want to mix respite with renewal. At the resort’s 500-foot private beach, you can wrap up a day of adventure sitting by a fire pit, s’mores or, hot toddy in hand, watching the sun set.
Renew in Reno
“The Biggest Little City in the World” is small enough to offer a sense of calm, yet buzzy enough to serve up the comforts of a major metropolitan area. Start your day with a stop at Perenn Bakery, a local favorite, where you can enjoy an organic, locally roasted coffee paired with a freshly baked pastry. Popular choices include the almond croissant, cinnamon roll, or an Earl Grey cookie.
The artistry in the pastries is just the start. Reno’s art scene is renowned: You’ll find more than 185 murals, sculptures, and other works of art, with new pieces popping up literally overnight at times. Kerzhner says the best way to see it all is with the crew at Pineapple Pedicab Tours. Friendly and knowledgeable, their guides also double as city ambassadors, happily sharing insights and tips about the place they love.
When it’s time to turn in, check into Best Bet Motor Lodge. “This place is really special,” says Kerzhner, of the new boutique midtown hotel. “You’re in the city there, but once you go into your room, it’s very quiet. Every little detail of that lodge was very well thought out, from the beds (super comfortable) to the coffee (gooseneck pour-over). It was perfect.”
The star amenity here: Reno Sauna Club, where two coed saunas (one indoor and another in a retrofitted 1950s teardrop trailer) await. The lounge features cold-plunge showers, a rain fall shower, a heated daybed, and an outdoor patio.
“The mix of retro and modern makes for a stay that feels comfy and chic."Tara Kerzhner, National Geographic Photographer
Still, adventure isn’t far away. Located inside the Whitney Peak Hotel, BaseCamp Climbing Gym boasts the world’s tallest artificial climbing wall. The impressive structure rises 164 feet alongside the iconic downtown Reno Arch and offers climbers a clear view of the city’s brightest lights.
“I think it shows the diversity of Reno,” says Kerzhner. “This is not your average city.”
Opportunities to connect with nature aren’t far: Fort Churchill State Historic Park sits in the high desert, and harkens back to a time when wagons heading west sought safe harbor along the way.
"I feel like this part of Nevada is so diverse, and I really wanted to show that in the landscapes. It was so peaceful, so beautiful.”National Geographic Photographer
Western Nevada’s charm lies in its dualities: Exciting cities and quiet towns. Vast plains and buzzing downtowns. Calm waters and imposing mountains. Exploring them on an itinerary like this one is a chance to recharge and reconnect—mind, body and soul.
