How to plan a family holiday in Tyrol, Austria's Alpine adventure playground
As an alternative to the sweltering summer heat of the Med, try refreshing mountain walks, waterfalls and traditional hospitality in Austria’s spectacular Stubai Valley.
The Tyrolean Alps region covers more than 9,500sq miles of western Austria and is best known as a winter sports magnet, but in the warmer months its wide peaks draw walkers, cyclists and other active travellers — and with the Med now regularly recording extreme summer temperatures, the Tyrolean Alps can offer an exciting holiday alternative for families that struggle in the heat.
Epic mountain views are a trademark here. Among the 20-plus Tyrolean valleys that can serve as a base for travellers, the 21-mile-long Stubai Valley — known locally as Stubaital — makes a brilliant choice for families. It begins just nine miles south of Innsbruck, a city well connected by rail and air, but it remains a genuine alpine destination: expect clanging cowbells, nodding wildflowers and outdoor adventures to make the heart yodel.
One main road threads along the valley floor, served by regular buses. Accommodation tends to be either traditional hotels or holiday apartments, mostly scattered around the little towns and villages in the northern half of the valley nearest Innsbruck. It makes sense to book somewhere close to the spire-dotted town of Neustift im Stubaital, home to supermarkets, the main tourist office and free open-air concerts on summer evenings.
On the slopes themselves, the terraces of the valley’s mountain bar-restaurants (known as ‘alms’) are fine places to linger — whether over drinks and Sachertorte, salad and schnitzel, or sausages and ice cream — and from late June to September the tourist board runs supervised children’s activities, ranging from geocaching to rock climbing.
1. Valley views on foot
The valley’s network of waymarked hiking trails offers everything from challenging high-altitude scrambles for thrill-seeking teens to easy adventure trails suitable for younger kids. Four cable-car lines head up into the mountains from different parts of the valley floor, all reaching more than 5,200ft above sea level and leading to big views and scenic footpaths. For something straightforward, follow the 1.5-mile route from the top of the Elfer cable-car towards the 350-year-old mountain restaurant of Autenalm. There’s also the new five-mile Sunnenseit’n Weg, a circular path that begins and ends at the middle station of the Schlick 2000 cable-car and crosses a new 360ft-long suspension bridge.
Away from the lifts, one superb option — for reasonably fit kids — begins at the foot of the mighty Grawa Waterfall. The 280ft-wide falls are far too wild to splash about in, but the 1.6-mile trail on their western side makes for a winding climb through the woods to reach a stunning plateau, where cold drinks and apple strudel await at the welcoming Sulzenau Alm.
2. E-biking the Alps
Cycling can be a superb way of exploring. For a family ride on level paths, pedal the valley trails towards the Kids Park Klaus Äuele, which has a ropes course, climbing walls, a lake and more. If your kids are into mountain biking, there are two good downhill trails from the Elfer cable-car. And if you fancy something with more of a climb, power up towards the remote mountain hut at Oberissalm, which sits in a high valley scattered with pretty farmsteads and serves up booming alpine views alongside filling local dishes such as käsespätzle (cheesy noodles).
Several hotels in the valley offer free guest bicycles, although it can be worth renting e-bikes for the helping hand they offer covering distance and hills. Intersport, in Neustift im Stubaital, offers day hire from around €26 (£22) per adult for a hardtail mountain bike and €45 (£39) for an e-mountain bike, or €35 (£30) for kids’ e-bikes.
3. Alternative thrills
Younger visitors are well catered for, whether in the form of the Miederer summer toboggan run — a pulse-raising 1.7-mile sled descent on a rail (no set age limit; kids can descend alone at staff’s discretion, or travel on the lap of an adult) from the top of the Serles cable-car — or the StuBay water park, which has water slides and outdoor and indoor pools. Intrepid kids can also book a tandem paragliding flight to see the Alps from a different perspective — there’s no lower age limit.
One of the valley’s biggest draws is the Stubai Glacier. It can be reached via a dedicated cable-car at the head of the valley, and while the glacier itself isn’t at its most handsome in summer, its location — best appreciated from the 10,530ft Top of Tyrol viewing platform, which serves up a panorama of more than 100 peaks — is staggering.
4. Adding on a city break
The Tyrolean capital of Innsbruck sits just 15 miles away from Neustift im Stubaital and can make for a fun excursion, with the 590 bus making a direct journey from the valley. The Old Town has plenty of historical character and some good cafes, while on the city outskirts, the Flip Lab trampoline park is a rainy-day option for families.
Inghams offers a week’s stay at the family-friendly, four-star Alpenhotel Fernau, on the outskirts of Neustift im Stubaital from £1,029 per person, including flights from the UK, transfers from Innsbruck Airport and half-board accommodation.
Visitors looking for accommodation only can try Aparthaus Aktiv — in the hamlet of Gasteig, four miles from Neustift — which has comfortable four-bed apartments from around €126 (£108) per night. Both provide Stubai Super Cards for guests.
Many accommodation options in the valley offer this handy discount card for guests, which grants free use of the valley’s cable-cars and buses, one ride on the Mieders toboggan run and two entries to the StuBay water park, among other concessions.
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