MGB & GT Forum

OK...I got the door window out. Thanks for the tips. The main problem was old gummed up grease. I am going to remove the doors to do a proper paint job. Is it better to leave the hinges with the door or attacked to the pillar. I am thinking it is better to remove the four acres holding it to the pillar and leave the hinges on the door.

Thanks...Jim

Not sure which is best but I can say that its more than 4 posi-drive screws per hinge. There is a nut hidden under the fender holding in each the top and bottom hinges...

Chris

---

___________________
Life's too short to drive a boring car...
See the restoration process here: http://www.mgexp.com/journal/chgrec

I would remove the hinges from the door, seems easier to me. FWIW

---

USMC 1967 - Always ... Semper Fi
79 RB Lowered, HS4s by Dave Braun & "Schlemmerized" 25D Dizzy, 9.5:1 CR, Mild Performance Cam, 18V with OD Tranny.
78 Midget MK IV Pagent Blue
73 GT in Black Tulip.. Engine by Hap Waldrop, OD Transmission by Dick Moritz Distributor is "Schlemmerized"
72 Midget MKIII Red

Well first to get the hinges off the A pillar you have to remove the splashguards (assuming they are on there) so you can undo the retaining nut in each hinge - it's not just the 4 pozi drive/hinge - IDK what 4 'four acres' are. ICR what the consensus is have a search it comes up fairly regularly - possibly Steve Lyle's got it covered in his pages. Whichever way you go a trick is to drill a couple of small pilot holes through the sheet metal and into or through the hinge arm if leaving them on the A pillar or through each of the removable plates in the A pillar; that way you can get them back in the same position thus in theory avoiding adjusting/aligning the doors on replacement.

---

Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

I have no idea how screws became acres. Either I am terribly dyslexic tonight or auto correct did something weird. It sounds like the hinges need to stay on the pillar since I am not going to take the splash guards off. I will look at Steve's journal.

Just read Steve's journal. He seems to suggest leaving the doors on the car if the hinges are in ok shape and the doors don't need to come off for another reason. Any thoughts on this? Mine seem to fit pretty good now.

I'd definitely recommend leaving the hinges on the car, and take the doors off the hinges. Maybe not a big deal coming off (but still easier separately), but I don't think you want to wrestle with a door and getting the hinges in to the A-pillar at the same time.

---

Documenting my project in my journal at https://www.mgexp.com/home#journal