MGB & GT Forum
Mgb Door Hinge
Posted by quatermaine
quatermaine
Terry Apple
London, Southgate, UK
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Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 10, 2020 03:32 AM
Joined 8 years ago
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Sep 10, 2020 04:04 AM
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You need to slacken off the two big nuts behind the splash panel and then the 8 pozis on the A pillar to get any adjustment which is not much. There's also the possibility that the striker is also incorrectly positioned.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
allanreeling
Allan R
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Sep 10, 2020 04:59 AM
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Door back, bottom corner, sticking out is very, very common.
Sometimes the door has a twist. Either from production or a re-skin.
OR a sill repair has pulled in the rear 1/4 repair panel too tight.
How is the door aligning with the front wing?
soonerv8
Do it right, do it once!
Sometimes the door has a twist. Either from production or a re-skin.
OR a sill repair has pulled in the rear 1/4 repair panel too tight.
How is the door aligning with the front wing?
soonerv8
Do it right, do it once!
Sep 10, 2020 07:35 AM
Joined 7 years ago
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Hi Alan...Thanks for your reply...The front of the door lines up really nicely.....no matter what I do... I just can't get the lower rounded rear edge of the door to pull in...only need a trifle less than 1/4 inch to perfectly align...I've had the car since 1992, so I've waited 28 years to align the door which is the only thing needed.
Terry
Terry
Sep 10, 2020 07:41 AM
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Rumour has it that the factory used a steel bar (strong arm) inserted down through the window aperture to tweak the alignment by twisting in or out as required.
Peter Malkin
NE Victoria
Australia
MGBGTV8 (1977)
MGB Roadster (1967) Supercharged
Triumph TR3A (1959)
MGA 1500 (under restoration)
Peter Malkin
NE Victoria
Australia
MGBGTV8 (1977)
MGB Roadster (1967) Supercharged
Triumph TR3A (1959)
MGA 1500 (under restoration)
Sep 10, 2020 08:08 AM
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Joined 18 years ago
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My doors do the same thing, seems fairly common, my metal is all original and nothing on either side appears to be tweaked. The replacement door aperture seals are stiffer and seem to aggravate the issue.
If I ever have to re-restore my B I would consider cutting the bottom rounded corner behind the skin, pulling it in and and welding in place.
If I ever have to re-restore my B I would consider cutting the bottom rounded corner behind the skin, pulling it in and and welding in place.
Sep 10, 2020 09:46 AM
Joined 9 years ago
1,893 Posts
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Went thru this recently but mine was the opposite, with the door being in by approximately 1/4 of an inch. What I found was that if you push the top of the front door edge out, the diagonal corner will go in and vice versa. Same thing with the bottom. Both door hinges need to be loose or you get binding. You can stick a long screw driver into the hinge hole to help with moving the hinges, Adjusting the door hinge up and down also aids in getting the tops to align and not stick out. For sure, it's a finicky ordeal and might require a fair amount of tolerance to frustration. I also had to warp the door using a 2x4 tightly wrapped vertically to the inside of the door using a tie down strap. Having the internal door bracing makes this tough to do.
I also would go around the door edges with a rubber mallet and gently tap the door edge for subtle adjustments. It looks way better now and close to perfect.
74 Damask Red BGT
Davesmg@outlook.com
I also would go around the door edges with a rubber mallet and gently tap the door edge for subtle adjustments. It looks way better now and close to perfect.
74 Damask Red BGT
Davesmg@outlook.com
quatermaine
Terry Apple
London, Southgate, UK
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Topic Creator (OP)
Sep 14, 2020 04:53 AM
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Hello Alan
I've remedied the situation by slightly elongating the screw holes in the striker plate attaching to the B Post, this gives much more adjustment both vertically , horizontally and in fact, any direction, so now I have a beautifully flush fitting door all round.
It was an easy fix and doesn't compromise the 3 bolt rigidity of the Striker late.
Regards
Terry
I've remedied the situation by slightly elongating the screw holes in the striker plate attaching to the B Post, this gives much more adjustment both vertically , horizontally and in fact, any direction, so now I have a beautifully flush fitting door all round.
It was an easy fix and doesn't compromise the 3 bolt rigidity of the Striker late.
Regards
Terry
tahoe36c thanked quatermaine for this post
Sep 14, 2020 06:09 AM
Joined 11 years ago
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Alan,
Sometimes pictures help... Look at # 118 in the pic below. I have traveled this road with my build. Now the doors are almost perfect.
The two large nuts (one on each hinge) hidden behind the splash guard provide the most rotational movement. That being said, you must loosen the four Posi screws as well. Do not loosen the three that mount the door to the hinge. Loosening these will allow the door to rotate and bring the aft bottom edge closer to the body. I loosened the Posi screws first and then closed/latched the door with some paint stir sticks between the bottom of the door and the sill to keep parallel alignment. Then I loosened the large nuts behind the splash guard and carefully pushed the bottom edge of the door in.
Tighten in reverse order and recheck fit and latching operation...
Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...
For the first time in history you can simply post, "he's an idiot" and 90% of the world will know who you are talking about...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2020-09-14 06:10 AM by tahoe36c.
Sometimes pictures help... Look at # 118 in the pic below. I have traveled this road with my build. Now the doors are almost perfect.
The two large nuts (one on each hinge) hidden behind the splash guard provide the most rotational movement. That being said, you must loosen the four Posi screws as well. Do not loosen the three that mount the door to the hinge. Loosening these will allow the door to rotate and bring the aft bottom edge closer to the body. I loosened the Posi screws first and then closed/latched the door with some paint stir sticks between the bottom of the door and the sill to keep parallel alignment. Then I loosened the large nuts behind the splash guard and carefully pushed the bottom edge of the door in.
Tighten in reverse order and recheck fit and latching operation...
Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...
For the first time in history you can simply post, "he's an idiot" and 90% of the world will know who you are talking about...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2020-09-14 06:10 AM by tahoe36c.
Sep 20, 2020 07:20 AM
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Joined 13 years ago
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In reply to # 4212243 by ClayJ
If I ever have to re-restore my B I would consider cutting the bottom rounded corner behind the skin, pulling it in and and welding in place.
Way to go Clay.
Done exactly that a number of times including on my own car,
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