When the Fifa World Cup was held in Qatar in 2022, new stadiums, skyscrapers and luxury hotels popped up all over the skyline of its capital, Doha. Since the footballers departed it’s once again become a laid-back place to visit: a seaside town in which to enjoy cutting-edge museums and art galleries alongside busy souks and an ever-evolving dining scene.
Doha is a city in which the traditional and contemporary sit side by side. Supercars waiting at traffic lights might be overtaken by royal guards patrolling on camel back; wooden dhows still sail past the sweeping futuristic lines of the Jean Nouvel-designed National Museum of Qatar; next to old souks selling frankincense you’ll find a giant mirrored dugong sculpture by Jeff Koons — just one piece in Qatar’s extraordinary collection of public artworks. Keen to showcase the country’s emerging art and design talent, the Qataris have built some of the most luxurious, architecturally ambitious hotels in the Gulf. Here we recommend six of the best, from a stylish bolt hole in a converted brutalist government building to a pair of sleek newcomers in scimitar-shaped towers.
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![The Ned Doha](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F13ac850f-42cb-4c62-8fee-914e16a82245.jpg?crop=1500%2C1000%2C0%2C0)
1. The Ned Doha
Doha’s former Ministry of Interior building could have gone the way of many others in a city that favours the new over the nostalgic. But the handsome brutalist structure was saved from the wrecking ball and today houses the Ned Doha, undoubtedly one of the most stylish hotels in the Arabian Gulf. David Chipperfield Architects, the studio behind Berlin’s Neues Museum and the forthcoming refurbishment and extension of the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, restored the 1970s-era structure, keeping its original modernist and Islamic architectural elements, and adding a new concrete plinth for outdoor restaurants. There are few better ways to spend a day in Doha than lazing by the hotel’s pool beneath a concrete canopy that casts angular shadows onto green and white striped sunloungers. This has also become one of the places to lunch, either on light dishes such as flatbread and young coconut salad at the Californian-style restaurant Malibu Kitchen or, on the opposite side of the terrace at Hadika (a favourite spot for well-heeled locals wanting a sea view with their lunch), delicious Levantine mezze and grills.
The Soho House Design team has created interiors that combine sturdy marble columns and serious-looking walnut walls — a nod to the building’s days of policymaking and government business — with multi-patterned fabrics, bold terrazzo floors and more than 350 artworks by Qatari and regional artists. The mix of modernism and maximalism continues in the rooms and suites where custom-made Murano chandeliers hang from waffled concrete ceilings and retro fan-shaped headboards reflect off antique mirrors. At 32 sq m, the Cosy rooms are perhaps a little too cosy for an extended stay; the corner palace view suite is the knockout space for light and sea views.
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Downstairs the public areas have become some of Doha’s liveliest spots. The Nickel Lounge attracts music lovers with its daily sets of live jazz, opera and swing, the Electric Diner’s red leather banquettes are occupied by families enjoying burgers and bagels, and Cecconi’s draws a crowd of local residents and visitors looking for an unpretentious dinner and some very good people-watching. This is a hotel that’s a stylish and unexpected hit — and perfectly suited to the cosmopolitan city Doha has become.
Details Doubles from about £302 B&B, thened.com/doha
![A signature suite at Raffles Doha](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2Faefdf92f-a714-4a32-803b-3ac49e81d4da.jpg?crop=2048%2C1537%2C0%2C0)
2. Raffles Doha
The Katara Towers, shaped like crossed scimitars, rise monumentally above the waters of the Arabian Gulf. One side is home to the all-suite Raffles Doha, the other the Fairmont. Given the building’s ambitious architecture, comparisons to Dubai’s Burj Al Arab are inevitable — both are instantly recognisable and filled with the type of ultra-luxurious trappings so popular in the Gulf. Inside, though, the building feels light and almost fairytale-like. Standing in the soaring lobby atrium, where images of ever-changing skies and cloudscapes are projected onto mirrored walls, is a bit like being inside a kaleidoscope.
This fantastical feeling continues within the suites, which have reliefs of foliage carved into their high arched ceilings, chandeliers made of lampshades and a walk-in maxi-bar so big it’s like an extra room, containing a wine fridge, sink and barista-level coffee machine. Bathrooms are equally huge, with proper double vanities, one on each side of the room.
![The Malaki lounge at Raffles Doha](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2Fcfe0ca93-2c6c-4e5f-8d69-c23eaa755adb.jpg?crop=2048%2C1536%2C0%2C0)
In the public areas marble walls sculpted like ruched curtains lead diners to L’Artisan, whose crisp croissants might tempt even the pickiest Parisian. At Alba the focus is on hearty Italian flavours (including truffles in a variety of dishes) and produce from Piedmont. And at the Blue Cigar bar the walls are stacked with more than 7,000 vintage books, including a first edition of Moby-Dick and a 1785 copy of Robinson Crusoe, delivered with a pair of white gloves, a lamp and a magnifying glass.
Details Doubles from about £542 B&B, raffles.com/doha
![The Katara Towers](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2Ffb6a49d3-da2d-4081-a845-39b2eda508eb.jpg?crop=4843%2C3230%2C0%2C0)
3. Fairmont Doha
In the other half of the Katara Towers, the Fairmont’s lobby is a symphony of sandy tones and textures. Marble floors reference the sinuous curves of desert dunes, walls feature delicate geometric patterns etched in gold and the lifts contain soft leather benches in case the ride to bed should be too arduous. The uncluttered, calming aesthetic continues in the pastel-hued rooms and suites, with elegant white leather wall detailing and pale carpets that must strike fear into the hearts of the housekeeping team. Everything in these rooms feels designed to soothe, from soft, silky bedsheets the colour of the finest desert sand to the back-lit onyx bathrooms where gold-flecked glass orbs double as door handles and showers are lined with swirling white and gold mosaics.
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There’s also an exuberance to the restaurants here, with punchy tiraditos and ceviches at Vaya! Latin Mercado, progressive Indian tasting menus at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, and servers sashaying between tables in flame-coloured sequin jumpsuits at the fire-and-ice-themed Provok Asian Project. The hotel’s outdoor pool merits a few lazy hours, either on a sunbed or a lounger submerged in the refreshing waters — the ideal spot from which to appreciate the building’s extraordinary architecture. For those wanting to feel sand beneath their feet, the hotel has a partnership with the sceney Bagatelle Beach Club, just five minutes away, where entry and transfers are free for guests of both the Fairmont and Raffles.
Details Doubles from about £248 B&B, fairmont.com/doha
![A deluxe room at the Mandarin Oriental Doha](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2Fb311a4a2-a15a-48f8-b50a-2f5952a7f4b9.jpg?crop=1954%2C1376%2C0%2C0)
4. Mandarin Oriental Doha
Doha isn’t a particularly pedestrian-friendly city, so the Mandarin Oriental’s location in Msheireb Downtown, a newish neighbourhood of walkable streets, cafés and restaurants in which the Design Doha biennial is being hosted until August 5, is a refreshing change. It’s also just a short stroll from here to the spice-scented lanes of Souq Waqif, home to Doha’s falcon hospital (where birds are brought to be treated for ailments and injuries) and local shops piled high with carpets, kitchen utensils, frankincense and saffron.
![Take in 360-degree views from the pool on the roof at the Mandarin Oriental](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F1ee1b5d2-0827-4625-a66d-46fba0bef7a3.jpg?crop=1988%2C1324%2C0%2C0)
With 117 rooms, 41 suites and 91 serviced apartments, the Mandarin Oriental isn’t a small property, but it retains a sense of calm and elegance. This isn’t a place that dazzles guests with bling. There’s a thoughtful subtlety to the interiors by David Collins Studio that reference elements of traditional Qatari heritage: the tiny bubbles in the bathroom lights are inspired by the breath of pearl divers; the arrowhead motifs on the marble floors echo ancient pottery shards found in the desert; and the shades of the carpets and fabrics recall desert sands.
Although the Mandarin Oriental is situated in an area full of cafés and restaurants, there’s no need to go beyond the hotel’s nine restaurants. The dim sum, soups and seafood at Liang would make the Mandarin Oriental’s Hong Kong flagship proud, while on the rooftop Aqua’s antipasti and Italian cocktails are complemented by views of the Corniche, and the outdoor tables at the hotel’s gelato shop are some of the hottest in town, often taken by sweet-toothed Qataris keen for ice cream and coffee.
Details Doubles from about £194 B&B, mandarinoriental.com
5. Waldorf Astoria Doha West Bay
![LeDoux is a Parisian-style patisserie in the Waldorf Astoria Doha West Bay](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2Ffd1cb902-464b-4caa-94c1-7a51ba2c4470.jpg?crop=4488%2C2992%2C0%2C0)
This might be one of the newest hotels in the city, set within a string of luxury resorts on Doha’s West Bay, but the Waldorf Astoria’s design aesthetic is firmly rooted in the past. Its interiors — designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates, whose previous projects include the Capella in Bangkok and the Great Scotland Yard in London — were inspired by the 1930s art deco architecture of the original hotel in New York. There’s a central Tiffany & Co clock in the lobby, carved plaster walls in the Peacock Alley and hand-painted gilded de Gournay wallpaper in the Cortland Bar, where equally original American-inspired cocktails such as the 18th Amendment, made with butter-washed bourbon, Canadian maple water and hickory smoke, are served.
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![Enjoy a cocktail in Peacock Alley, which “reconnects to the glamour and traditions of the Waldorf Astoria New York”](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F9b8f55f2-1407-42b8-9ca0-390fef2829a7.jpg?crop=4488%2C2992%2C0%2C0)
The Manhattan-meets-Doha mood continues in the rooms, where monochromatic tones are softened with touches of Tiffany blue, black and white photographs of New York landmarks are reminders of the brand’s origin, and aerodynamically curved desk lamps continue the art deco theme. The hotel’s food offering has become a big draw, in particular its popular and elegant afternoon tea. Equally fine are the outdoor Al Fayrouz Terrace, serving Silk Road-inspired dishes, and chef Mauro Colagreco’s Muru outpost, famous for its tiraditos, empanadas and parrilla-grilled meats.
The hotel’s highlight is the spa, stretching over four floors. This is a spot in which you could spend days, exploring the hydrotherapy pools, Himalayan salt inhalation rooms, sensory rain walk and comforting treatment rooms, one of which holds a bed of crushed quartz crystals that cocoon the body. There’s also a 26m indoor pool that occupies practically the entire 42nd floor and lures guests with its warm water, tiles in shades of jade and eye-popping views of the West Bay skyscrapers.
Details Doubles from about £313 B&B, hilton.com
![Al Messila’s grand pool](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F81d349ba-3180-483d-8cbe-d639a37e2ba0.jpg?crop=2470%2C1384%2C0%2C0)
6. Al Messila, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa
Although the building is palatial in scale, with lots of gleaming marble, contemporary geometric detailing, handsome arches and carved wooden panels, the star of this hotel is its vast grounds. The verdant gardens, with their frangipani, sidra, acacia and bougainvillea, weren’t always so lush: the original plot on which the hotel now stands was a test site to see which plants would be resilient enough to cope with Qatar’s harsh climate. Today it’s like an oasis in this desert city, filled with birdsong and trickling water that seems to cool the air temperature by a couple of degrees — and simultaneously makes your blood pressure drop a notch.
![The pool area at Al Messila is framed by palm trees](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F7c1c65cc-616a-4fbe-b971-b62fa6833e88.jpg?crop=2472%2C1384%2C0%2C0)
The hotel’s name means “where water flows” in Arabic, and water is indeed a major feature. Gazing up at brilliant blue skies through palm fronds by the huge central pool is a pretty dreamy way to spend a couple of hours (although there’s also an indoor pool worth splashing in, its surface dappled by sunlight falling through contemporary mashrabiya screens). The spa is huge: a 14,000 sq m wellness and fitness centre arranged over two storeys, with offerings from Moroccan hammam treatments in a calming marble-clad chamber to a massage with 24-carat gold flecked stones.
![A private villa with patio at Al Messila](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F9a7ef7d1-7fc3-44c7-bc46-7a7ac7faf8bf.jpg?crop=4252%2C2835%2C0%2C0)
For diners there are international light dishes and cocktails by the pool at Wa’Ha and Italian cuisine at elegant Veritas. But it’s the delicate Persian dishes at Parisa — such as whipped yoghurt with freshly roasted walnuts, cucumber dusted with dried mint and saffron-infused lamb skewers — that are the most interesting. The interiors of this restaurant also give a hint of what can be expected at its more sparkly sister restaurant in Souq Waqif: a setting that dazzles with mirrored ceilings, mosaic-clad walls and stained glass.
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![The Al Messila Royal Suite](https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2Fmethode%2Ftimes%2Fprod%2Fweb%2Fbin%2F2cc5bab9-d25b-474c-9cf1-1d075bf7b224.jpg?crop=4134%2C2756%2C0%2C0)
Even the smallest rooms at Al Messila have a balcony and luxe Byredo amenities, but the private villas — a rarity in the city — are by far the best options, with their sunny gardens, swimming pools and large outdoor patios shaded by pergolas for complete privacy.
Details Doubles from about £172 B&B, marriott.com