How to Use Retinol, According to Dermatologists

In skincare, retinol is the closest thing to actual magic. The powerful ingredient (also known as vitamin A) is used to treat a long list of common skincare issues, such as fine lines, wrinkles, acne, dullness, and large pores. It's the skincare fountain of youth, if you will. But before you add a bottle to your cart, you'd benefit from knowing how to use retinol to reap the most benefits.

Although it can be extremely effective, the ingredient is equal parts confusing because there are so many misconceptions about using it. That's why we turned to dermatologists Debra Jaliman, M.D., and Shari Marchbein, M.D., to set the record straight on some of the biggest questions about how and when to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine.

Keep reading to find out exactly how to use retinol to improve your skin.

Retinoids vs. Retinol vs. Retinoic Acid

The three R ingredients are often used interchangeably, but they aren't actually the same thing. Let's delineate the difference between them.

Retinoids

Retinoids are basically an umbrella term for derivatives of vitamin A. "Retinoids work by increasing collagen production as well as increasing the rate of skin cell turnover. They are highly effective at improving the texture of the skin and giving it a glow, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, evening out skin tone, and even decreasing pore size," says Dr. Marchbein. "The over-the-counter retinoids are not nearly as strong as the prescription version your dermatologist can write, so if you have more oily skin or are acne-prone, you should be able to start with a prescription retinol right away."

Retinol

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that's regularly available over the counter and typically contains a lower concentration of the active ingredient. "Retinols contain lower concentrations of the retinoid," explains Dr. Jaliman. "This means it will not give you the same effect as a prescription version."

Retinoic Acid

Retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinaldehyde, propionic acid, and retinyl acetate are common ester forms of retinol found in these products. Over-the-counter retinols are often mixed with moisturizing ingredients to minimize irritation, which can lead to lower levels of the active ingredient in these products, so they're less potent.

These over-the-counter retinols are converted into retinoic acid by the skin at a cellular level in order to become active and, thus, can take longer to work. "Retinoids and retinoic acid don't need to be converted," says Dr. Jaliman. "They start working as soon as they are applied to the skin."

How Retinol Works

Retinol enhances collagen production and increases the rate at which skin turns over and regenerates. This can cause exfoliation of the outer layer of the skin. "When someone uses retinol, the outer layer of the skin is sloughed off, and the newer skin underneath is revealed," says Dr. Jaliman.

How to Use Retinol

Our dermatologists advise that the best time to use retinol is during your p.m. skincare routine—not in the morning. "The most important reason to not use retinoids during the day is that the majority of topical retinoids are rendered inactive by sunlight," explains Dr. Marchbein. "But the dryness and peeling when first using retinoids can make you more sensitive to the sun, so it is best to use them at night when we are repairing the skin."

As for how to use retinol at night, Dr. Marhbein instructs: "I recommend gently cleansing the skin at night, then pat it dry and apply a pea-sized amount of retinoid to the entire face." Some favorites for clean, healthy skin: Simple Micellar Water Wipes, Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Cleanser, and CeraVe Foaming Cleanser.

"Start three times a week, as dryness and peeling can be expected for four to six weeks," Dr. Marchbein tells us. "If there is no dryness or as you start to tolerate it better, use can be increased to every night." You might consider applying it on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, she adds.

When to Expect Results

Retinol products aren't going to transform your skin overnight. However, with continued use, you'll start to see an improvement in texture, breakouts, fine lines, and wrinkles. 

"I typically say that dryness and irritation from retinoids can last four to six weeks. Around then, we may also start seeing some improvement in mild acne breakouts," explains Dr. Marchbein. "However, it typically takes 12 or more weeks to see more significant changes in skin texture, wrinkle reduction, improvements in pigmentation and pore size."

What Ingredients to Avoid Mixing with Retinol

Like retinol, vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare. While Dr. Marchbein recommends including both in your anti-aging routine, along with SPF, she also urges against combining them since they serve different purposes.

"Vitamin C serums protect the skin from oxidative free radical damage and work best in the morning," says Dr. Marchbein. "In contrast, retinoids build collagen and help repair the skin, so are best used overnight."

Another reason to separate the two ingredients is that they can irritate sensitive skin when used simultaneously. "There are different forms of Vitamin C used in products, which can irritate sensitive skin (like L-absorbic acid)," says Dr. Jaliman. " Since you might get irritation or discomfort, I would err on the safe side and avoid using both together."

What to Know Before Using Retinol

Some people experience peeling when they start using retinol, but this isn't a sign that the ingredient is working.

"Although the most common side effect of retinoids is dryness and irritation of the skin, which tends to last four to six weeks, there are over-the-counter as well as cosmeceutical strength retinoids (retinol and retinal palmitate) that cause very little dryness or peeling and can still be effective," explains Dr. Marchbein. To avoid this, try a patch test on your forearm or the side of your neck to see how your skin will react to the new product. '

Also, while retinol is generally safe to use for most people, you should avoid using it if you are nursing or pregnant. "High doses of vitamin A can be harmful to an unborn child and cause birth defects, so I would refrain from using retinol when pregnant," says Dr. Jaliman.