If you’ve visited GQ.com at least once before today, you know we’re very much pro polo-shirt. Whether it’s a retro knit worn with a suit, or a sporty pique cotton polo dressed way down, we’re on board. Unfortunately, a lot of stylish guys don’t wear them at all. Maybe that’s because they don’t realize that the polo shirt their dad wears on the golf course has nothing to do with the one that should be in their closet. To help newbies and polo-shirt fans alike nail the look we turned to a few of our favorite menswear stylists for their thoughts on how the staple should fit and feel. Here's what they had to say.
Jeanne Yang, the woman behind Alexander Skarsgard, Jamie Dornan, and Scott Eastwood’s enviable style, had a good tip: find a visual reference. “Personally, I like a polo that looks and fits like the Mod and Ska guys from England on their Vespas”, she said. Think: Fred Perry’s slim-cut, contrast-collar polo shirts tucked into stiff jeans. If your style isn’t quite that rebellious, pick up an issue of GQ or GQ Style or search our polo-shirt archives online. Chances are, you’ll find an example that speaks to your style.
“The most important rule for wearing a polo is that it’s not too tight. You want a little breathing room around the midsection especially if you’re not sample size or in tip-top shape”, Michael Fisher, who styles Jonah Hill and James Cordon told us. “Another thing to keep in mind is sleeve length” he said, “you shouldn’t show too much bicep—half is good.”
Ilaria Urbinati, the woman behind many stylish GQ regulars like Rami Malek, Tom Hiddleston and Ryan Reynolds, was on the same page. She also had a very important, often ignored note on length: Unless you’re tucking the shirt in, you want it to just graze your belt. Any longer and you’re in the danger zone.
Jeff K. Kim, who counts Michael B. Jordan and a slew of supermodels as clients, and Evet Sanchez, the woman behind Leonardo Dicaprio’s red-carpet style, emphasized the need for a tapered fit through the body. “A polo shirt should fit like any other well-fitting shirt”, Kim concluded, “A little tighter in the arms and chest, but tapered down through the waist”.
And if you just can’t seem to nail the fit off the rack, don’t be afraid to have it tailored. Yang told us she often alters polo shirt for her clients when things aren’t quite right.
Once you’re got a solid visual reference, and figured out how the shirt should fit, you need to think about fabric and style. Urbinati recommends building a wardrobe of polo shirts that work in different settings. “I love a knit polo for a luxe, ‘60s look”, she said, “or a long-sleeve cashmere polo with the sleeves pushed up for something more classic.” Urbintati favors Isaia and Dolce & Gabbana for her clients, while Yang recommends British brands Fred Perry and Jonathan Smedley.
The point is, if you only own gray, white, and navy pique-cotton polos, you’re doing it wrong. Mix things up in order to have ultimate styling flexibility. When you’re wearing a suit or nice trousers, go for a finer-fabric polo, and when you’re in jeans, opt for a sportier version in cotton, linen, or terry. Here are 50 to get you started.