Canonbury: the insider guide
Once the playground of literary giants such as George Orwell and Evelyn Waugh and now home to media types and Islington families, Canonbury merges the sensibilities of a rural village with the cutlery clinks of a cosmopolitan neighbourhood. The area’s pubs hold onto their yesteryear charm, with a few small-plates add-ons, and independent shops are old news to Canonbury – cafés, organic food and natural-wine stores are key players. Boundaries may be blurred, but the neighbourhood is in good company, flanked by Highbury, Dalston, Newington Green and bustling Upper Street. From Canonbury’s handsome Georgian squares to its alternative foodie scene, here are the best things to see, do and eat in this North London enclave.
THE BEST PLACES TO DRINK IN CANONBURY
VINS
BEST FOR: BIODYNAMIC WINES WITH SMALL-PLATES
Set up by the duo behind Shoreditch’s Jago, this small wine bar, which encourages guests to explore new wines, has expanded its offering to hit the seasonal-small-plates zeitgeist. Head to its quiet spot just behind Canonbury station, choose a glass from the compact but well-curated wine list and some snacks from the menu of rustic European classics and settle in. The puddings also have our seal of approval.
Address: Vins Restaurant & Wine Bar, 93 Grosvenor Avenue, London N5 2NL
Telephone: +44 20 7226 8526
Website: vinsrestaurant.co.ukTHE SAMPLER
BEST FOR: RARE AND FINE WINE FOR LESS
Far north of St James’s stuffy vinicultural warren, but close enough to Stoke Newington’s organic wine-bar culture for it to rub off, Canonbury has a high-spec, low-fuss wine scene. True to its name, Upper Street’s wine specialist The Sampler is home to enomatic machines that protect fine wines from oxidation, allowing budding oenophiles the chance to taste mature vintages and rare grower Champagnes before deciding whether to buy.
Address: The Sampler, 266 Upper Street, London N1 2UQ
Telephone: +44 20 7226 9500
Website: thesampler.co.uk
THE CANONBURY TAVERN
BEST FOR: PUB GARDEN LUNCHES AND GROUP DINING
A community pillar, the Canonbury Tavern has been pulling pints since the 1700s. It’s cosy but airy, rowdy but refined and has hints of village charm despite being vast. The pub dines off its historical quirks: the staircase that leads to nowhere following a post-fire refurb in 1846; the sacred pub-garden tree under which George Orwell penned chapters of 1984. Giving the crowd what it wants, the menu rolls out hearty British pub fare, with the odd fennel salad here and quinoa alternative there. But it’s the ales by the fire, the warming Sunday roasts and the bucolic garden that set this favourite local haunt apart.
Address: The Canonbury Tavern, 21 Canonbury Place, London N1 2NS
Telephone: +44 20 7704 2887
Website: thecanonbury.co.uk
THE SNOOTY FOX
BEST FOR: CRAFT BEERS AND ROTISSERIE CHICKEN
It’s a balancing act, keeping an old pub’s character and moving it into the now without tipping it into ubiquitous hipsterville. And though fine ales and craft beers pull in a decidedly cool crowd, the Snooty Fox’s coarse-but-quaint interiors work a light Sixties riff and the pub food a gentle modern spin (rotisserie chicken meets traditional Sunday roasts). Watch locals try to outdo each other at 9pm each Tuesday at the surprisingly challenging pub quiz.
Address: The Snooty Fox, 75 Grosvenor Avenue, London N5 2NN
Telephone: +44 20 7354 9532
Website: snooty-fox.co.ukTHE MYDDLETON ARMS
BEST FOR: A FEEL OF OLD LONDON
Hunker down in this North London stalwart dressed in heritage-hued panelling and with proper ales, wines and homemade food. It’s compact and splendidly imperfect, with Victorian glass windows and low-hanging lamps. In the summer months, locals nurse guest ales al fresco at tables along the street.
Address: Myddleton Arms, 52 Canonbury Road, Islington, London N1 2HS
Telephone: +44 20 7226 4595
Website: myddletonarms.com
Graham TurnerTHE COMPTON ARMS
BEST FOR: GEORGE ORWELL FANS WHO LIKE A BURGER
This is one of the three pubs Orwell used as inspiration for his watering-hole essay, ‘The Moon Under Water’, and though it’s easy to detect whiffs of gentrification in this wooden-beamed boozer in the backstreets of Canonbury – the odd fresh-painted paneling here and industrial lamp there – the Compton Arms’ authentic spirit remains firmly intact. Come here for classic tipples and a surprisingly excellent food menu courtesy of chef duo Four Legs, who whip up an impressive burger and seasonal sharing plates. And where sharing is concerned, keep any contentious football affinities to yourself, this is Arsenal’s heartland.
Address: The Compton Arms, 4 Compton Avenue, London N1 2XD
Telephone: +44 20 7354 8473
Website: comptonarms.co.ukTHE BEST RESTAURANTS IN CANONBURY
THE SMOKEHOUSE
BEST FOR: BEEF TACOS AND SHARED SMOKED RIBS
There’s a contrast between the quaint wrapping of this pub-like building and the warm frenzy inside. In comparison with the primal mores of some of its carnivorous counterparts though, the Smokehouse’s meat directive plays to a more sophisticated tempo. Adhering to his farm-to-fork philosophy, Neil Rankin’s unfussy Canonbury haunt pulls in its produce from the best farms across the UK and some of its wine from family-owned vineyards. Starters are both rugged and refined, with dainty beef tacos the biggest crowd-pleaser. For mains, expect juicy hunks of British steak, duck in plum sauce with charred pak choi, market fish dishes or hearty beef brisket bourguignon, oh, and a token charred beetroot for the veggies. Wine is reasonably priced – opt for the velvety Malbec – and an impressive craft ale selection comes with the N1 territory.
Address: Smokehouse, 63-69 Canonbury Road, London N1 2DG
Telephone: +44 20 7354 1144
Website: smokehouseislington.co.uk
TRULLO
BEST FOR: ELEVATED YET SIMPLE ITALIAN FARE
A stylish North London rendition of a simple Italian trattoria, Trullo is a very popular local hotspot that needs to be booked well in advance. It’s hardly surprising, given the fresh and succinct seasonal menu. The charcoal grill and oven options are a tasty Mediterranean substitute for the classic Sunday roast, from mozzarella and fried aubergine in slow-cooked tomato sauce to Yorkshire partridge with soft polenta or John Dory with coco blanc and salsa rossa. Be sure to to smother your bruschetta, focaccia or venison carpaccio in glugs of their delicious olive oil.
Address: Trullo, 300-302 St Paul's Road, London N1 2LH
Telephone: +44 20 7226 2733
Website: trullorestaurant.comPRAWN ON THE LAWN
BEST FOR: FRESH SEAFOOD WITH GREAT WINE
Rick and Katie Toogood’s seafood delights have been fully embraced by the Islington crowd. The relaxed haunt started life as a fishmonger selling fresh catch from the Cornish coast but is now also home to a restaurant serving small plates, platters and fish sold by weight according to the day’s market prices. A compact wine list is finely tuned for seafood pairing, as are the interiors – white industrial decor with a metro-tiled counter. If a Cornish sojourn to the couple’s second opening in Padstow seems unlikely, Islington-on-sea will have to do.
Address: Prawn on the Lawn, 292–294 St Paul's Road, London N1 2LH
Telephone: +44 20 3303 8668
Website: prawnonthelawn.com
CANONBURY KITCHEN
BEST FOR: UNASSUMING ITALIAN CLASSICS
Tucked away on Canonbury Lane just off Upper Street, this quietly confident neighbourhood Italian toes the minimalist line where interiors are concerned with its exposed brick walls, naked wooden tables and distinct lack of la dolce vita overkill. From fritto misto of calamari, whitebait and prawns to grilled swordfish or homemade ravioli of ricotta, spinach and saffron, there’s a refreshing absence of menu surprises or gimmicky twists. Save room for the homemade tiramisu and limoncello finale.
Address: Canonbury Kitchen, 19 Canonbury Lane, London N1 2AS
Telephone: +44 20 7226 9791
Website: canonburykitchen.comAKARI
BEST FOR: AUTHENTIC JAPANESE SMALL-PLATES
Find fresh Japanese fare at this cosy pub-like spot on Essex Road, along with shochu and chu-hi (Japanese cocktails made with shochu, sparkling water and flavoured syrups). The menu is a cultured nod to the izakaya, a traditional Japanese drinking spot where the food takes its lead from the drinks menu, resulting in authentic and adventurous small plates. Prices are surprisingly reasonable (yellowtail carpaccio falls just shy of £10) and they don’t skimp on the portions.
Address: Akari, 196 Essex Road, London N1 8LZ
Telephone: +44 20 7226 9943
Website: akarilondon.co.ukTHE BEST CAFÉS IN CANONBURY
SAWYER AND GRAY
BEST FOR: CORN FRITTERS AND HOME-BAKED CAKES
Just a stone’s throw from Highbury & Islington tube station sits a whitewashed oasis scattered with brick-a-brack collectables which serves up vivid homemade juices. Everything at Sawyer & Gray is made from scratch, from the beetroot crème fraîche alongside the free-range salmon on sourdough to the gluten-free corn fritters smothered in sweet chilli jam, feta and avocado. The reasonably priced big breakfast is an artisanal take on the traditional fry-up with portobello melts and homemade smoky beans and the brioche French toast with crispy bacon and mascarpone is a house special. Fabulous co-founder Marco lures guests towards his homemade chocolate brownies, which he deems ‘superior’ to partner Darren’s lemon drizzle.
Address: Sawyer & Gray, 290a St Paul's Road, London N1 2LH
Telephone: +44 20 3417 5950
Website: sawyerandgray.co.uk
THE PLACE
BEST FOR: COFFEE AND DRAWN OUT BRUNCHES
Head to this red-fronted café on Canonbury Place for good, strong coffee, homemade pastries and hearty brunches amid whiffs of Scandi design. From waffles with crispy bacon and maple syrup to goats cheese, chopped tomatoes and spinach on sourdough, the specials board and overall operation is a slightly smarter spin on the local café, and this is the perfect spot to settle into the Sunday papers.
Address: The Place, 11 Canonbury Place, London N1 2NQ
Telephone: +44 20 7359 8571
Facebook: @theplacecanonbury
ST PAUL ISLINGTON
BEST FOR: FREELANCING WITH AN ARTISANAL CHEESEBOARD AND GLASS OF RED
Neighbourhood haunt St Paul is an independent coffee shop and wine bar in one, with artisanal cheese, small plates and a seasonal brunch menu that gives fancier spots a run for their money. On weekdays freelancers plug in, fuelled by strong coffee and toasties, and once evening hits locals hunker down with a good book and a glass of red. Interiors are simple and homely, letting the craft beers, wine list and fresh plates speak for themselves.
Address: St Paul Islington, 274b St Paul's Road, London N1 2LJ
Telephone: +44 20 7683 9993
Website: stpaulislington.comTHE BEST THINGS TO DO IN CANONBURY
The Estorick CollectionTHE ESTORICK COLLECTION
BEST FOR: FUTURIST WORKS AND CLASSES
The Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art is Britain’s only gallery exclusively exhibiting 20th-century Italian works and is housed in one of Canonbury’s Grade-II listed beauties. The gallery’s imposing ground floor has a stellar bookshop and café for drawn-out debriefs on Italian artistic prowess – it’s the Futurist works and figurative art and sculpture that people come for – while workshops and events such as life drawing or family wax-stick construction cement the gallery as a cultural linchpin for the neighbourhood.
Address: Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art, 39a Canonbury Square, London N1 2AN
Telephone: +44 20 7704 9522
Website: estorickcollection.com
AlamyNEW RIVER WALK
BEST FOR: WALKING OFF YOUR SUNDAY ROAST
Flanking a stretch of the New River between St Pauls Road and Canonbury Road you’ll find the New River Walk, a landscaped park flush with flora and fauna in spring and frosty beauty in winter. Offering some respite from the foodie frenzy of nearby Upper Street, it’s the ideal place for a post-Sunday roast stroll.
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VINS
VINS
VINS
THE SNOOTY FOX
Vicki CouchmanTHE COMPTON ARMS
THE SMOKEHOUSE
THE SMOKEHOUSE
THE SMOKEHOUSE
THE SMOKEHOUSE
TRULLO
THE SNOOTY FOX
Snooty Fox
Snooty Fox
The Canonbury Tavern
The Canonbury Tavern
Sawyer and Grey
Sawyer and Grey
Graham TurnerFour Legs
The Estorick CollectionDR FRANCOISE BRABANDER BY AMEDEO MODIGLIANI AT THE ESTORICK COLLECTION.
CANONBURY