Review: Maty's

Maty’s is a happy place. It glows with golden warmth despite its capacious warehouse-style dining room, which has polished concrete underfoot and exposed pipes above. That’s due not only to front-of-house activity but also to the sights, sounds, and smells of the open kitchen in the rear. A seat at the bar—complete with a pisco-dashed martini and an order of the ingenious crudo special of scallops and grapes—is the perfect vantage point for taking in all that chef Valerie Chang has orchestrated here. Standouts range from humble seasonal pickles and chicken milanesa to oysters kissed with leche de tigre and charred corn in a shower of pecorino.