Review: Barro
A contemporary defense of the rural world through the use of regional ingredients.
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Located in Ávila, about a 90-minute drive away from Madrid’s city center, Barro is a contemporary defense of the rural world through the use of regional ingredients. This wise approach earned the restaurant its first Michelin star, making Carlos Casillas the youngest chef to achieve one in Spain. Once inside his restaurant—where a minimalistic approach reigns in the decor—go for the Alberche tasting menu, composed of 15 dishes such as a suckling pig with kimchi brava sauce; a 150-day-aged rib eye with a hollandaise sauce (made with the meat’s own fat); and a rabbit lasagna accompanied by grilled kidney, green beans, and a consommé with fermented tomato water.