A Formal Guide to Wedding Tuxedos for Grooms, Groomsmen, and Guests

Tuxedos have been forever lauded as looks that connote the highest degree of decorum. Since the late 1800s, these black and white ensembles have been reserved for the most special of occasions, ceremonious events, and esteemed social gatherings—and it’s not difficult to see why: they’re polished and put together with total precision.

With that in mind, it's no wonder why many individuals choose to sport tuxedos for weddings, especially since there are a variety of elevated styles and silhouettes available to buy or rent. “These days, tuxedos are a far cry from the black and white penguin suit status they had some decades ago,” shares stylist and image consultant Donnell Baldwin. “In my opinion, a tuxedo says luxury and elegance—not that a suit can’t, it’s just that there is a reason why distinctions between tuxedos and suits have lasted over hundreds of years.”

For those interested in sporting this super chic getup for an upcoming wedding—whether you're the groom, a groomsman, or a guest—we put together a formal guide to help ease your mind when searching for this type of outfit. Ahead, find an A-to-Z glossary of everything related to men's tuxedos.

How to Decide If You Should Wear a Tuxedo

Ultimately, the decision to go with a tuxedo comes down to the basic formality of the day. “If the overall vibe of the wedding is elegant and you’re providing a ‘black tie’ or ‘black tie preferred’ dress code on your invitation, then it’s most appropriate for you (and every guest who’d be attending in a suited look) to wear a black-tie, tuxedo look,” explains Baldwin. Of course, certain circumstances might prompt greater consideration, but by and large, tuxedos align with a more formal style direction.

The Differences Between Suits and Tuxedos

The biggest difference you'll notice between a suit and a tux is the lapel facings. Tuxedo lapels are designed with pure silk, smooth satin, or textured grosgrain to give it a signature V-look, while suit lapels are made with the same fabric as the suit jacket. What's more, the buttons of a tuxedo jacket will be covered in the same fabric as the lapels—likewise for tuxedo pants, which may (but don’t always) come with a stripe of the same fabric down the side.

Another important hallmark of the tux is the absence of a belt; pants don’t even have belt loops, rather, they’re held up with suspenders. Lastly, tuxes are worn with a tuxedo shirt, a wingtip dress shirt, or a pleated dress shirt, while suits are typically just styled with a traditional dress shirt or t-shirt, depending on the event's level of formality.

“This is the most traditional form of a tuxedo: black with satin lapels, a crisp white tuxedo shirt, a self-tie bow tie, cufflinks and a stud set, proper tuxedo trousers, and elegant tuxedo footwear,” adds Baldwin. “Some additional elements might include a waistcoat (a vest, more plainly) or a cummerbund, but never both, along with other distinguished toppers like dinner jackets in white or ivory.”

The Unique Elements of a Tuxedo

Here, we break down a few elements that make a tuxedo unique.

Colors and Prints

This may come as a surprise, but tuxedos don't only come in a standard black-and-white colorway. Every formalwear atelier and rental authority has tuxedos in a vast number of colors from black to graphite, gray to charcoal, crimson red to midnight blue, and Spectre-style Daniel Craig in white. That being said, choosing something outside of the classic black palette needs to be pulse-checked against the rest of the wedding party and the couple themselves.

“If wearing a bold color or print will be distracting or ill-suited for the wedding setting, I tell my grooms to reconsider. This is especially true if their partner’s look is a bit more subdued," cautions Baldwin. "I’m certainly not going to style a groom in a super bold look that draws more singular attention than what should be attracted by the couple together; after all, they are the guests of honor for the day."

Shirt Collars

Tuxedo shirts come with a unique set of collars that you don't see on dress shirt collars. For example, a wingtip collar has been adored for decades: It features a small standing collar with the points pressed down so they stick out horizontally in the same vein as wings.

Another option? Spread collars, which are a bit less rigid, literally and figuratively. They come in a myriad of points and angles (the classic or forward point collar is popular for tuxedo styling because it nicely hides the band of a bow tie). Lastly, the more casual option is a cutaway collar, which can also be styled with suits.

Lapels 

As previously mentioned, lapels—the collar portion of a tuxedo jacket—and their fabrication are what make tuxedos unique. There are three main types: Shawl, peak, and notch.

The most formal of the three, shawl lapels are for those with unique tastes. In fact, Baldwin notes that “not everyone can pull off this old-school, smoking jacket feel reminiscent of James Bond or a Rat Pack-esque gentleman of style—you have to be especially confident wearing this lapel because it’s certainly a departure from the expected and thus likely to be noticed.”

Similar to a shawl lapel (though a little less formal), a peak lapel is a great choice for higher-end dress codes: white tie and black tie style directives typically call for this ultra-classic and exceptionally debonair detailing. Here, there are edges that ‘peak’ upward toward the face to “give the appearance of broader shoulders and a slimmer waistline,” says Baldwin.

Lastly, a notch lapel is a less formal and more streamlined option. Baldwin tells us that “they seem to be widely accepted because they are as close to a business suit than any other lapel option.” As such, they’re arguably the most common lapels to be found on off-the-rack tuxedos.

Ties

While there is a multitude of options for tuxedo shirts, lapels, and even colors, when ties are considered, there are only two types that can be worn with a tux: bow ties or neckties. From day one, bow ties have been favored with tuxedos over neckties for being particularly diplomatic and buttoned up—but now that people are taking creative styling liberties and personalizing their wedding looks, the interest in neckties has definitely turned around.

How do you decide which one to wear to your wedding? Bow ties should be your first choice unless you truly want to add a little personality to your look and rock a necktie. However, Baldwin simply recommends that “if you choose a necktie for your nuptials, you should explore one in silk or a complementary texture that feels elegant and on par with the tuxedo.”