Asscher Cut Engagement Rings: The Complete Guide

In 1968, aboard a yacht on the River Thames in London, Richard Burton unveiled the Krupp Diamond as a decadent gift to Elizabeth Taylor. It was a colorless 33.19-carat diamond he purchased at an auction for $307,000 (though its worth is now estimated at over $9 million). It's one of the most fabled diamonds in the history of gemology. However, there's one detail you may not already know by heart: It was an Asscher cut diamond.

"The Asscher cut is most similar to the Emerald cut but in a square shape," jeweler Henri Bar says. "What makes this cut different is the larger step facets, smaller table, and a higher crown which gives the stone more weight. The corners of the diamond are cropped to give it that unique look."

Pros and Cons of Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

If you are looking for a one-of-a-kind engagement ring with a vintage touch, then an Asscher cut diamond is your best bet. The uniqueness of the diamond will certainly turn heads. This cut doesn't have sharp edges, making is less prone to breakage. While this style of ring is fit for royalty—or at least Hollywood royalty—it comes at a cost. Asscher cut diamond rings fall on the pricier side of engagement rings, so it is certainly an investment piece.

Another important thing to consider when looking for your ring is that in contrast to other popular cuts, the Asscher isn't as shiny. "Keep in mind that while these stones do refract light to create color—or as we call it, 'have a lot of fire'—they aren't that sparkly compared to round brilliant stones."

What to Look for in an Asscher Cut Diamond

• What setting styles look best with this stone shape? You'll most likely want open-prong settings that don't mask the complexities of the cut and that allow more light to enter the diamond. A four-prong setting, for example, would work well. If you want to create more sparkle, a pave or halo setting could be nice, too.
• Where should I shop for this type of ring? "You'll find this style of ring at estate sales or vintage jewelry auctions," diamond expert Henri Bar explains. "Going vintage for an Asscher cut is your best bet since finding a well-cut Asscher cut diamond is quite hard and they can be very expensive."
• What is the most important factor of an Asscher cut? Asscher cuts are more likely to expose inclusions (blemishes) and undesired color due to the open facets, so finding a seasoned jeweler that certifies superior diamonds is a must. Additionally, a lower depth is better for Asscher cuts (between 60% and 68%); the shallower it is, the larger the diamond will appear.

How to Care for an Asscher Cut Diamond

Once you've settled on your Asscher cut diamond (congrats!) you'll want to make sure it's well maintained. "I would care for your Asscher cut ring just as I would care for any other diamond piece," Bar says. The Gemology Institute of America recommends cleaning your diamonds with "lint-free cloths, commercial jewelry cleaning solutions, and household detergents." Steer clear of abrasive household cleaners, ultrasonic cleaners, and steam cleaners.

History of the Asscher Cut

This intricate cut was created in the early 1900s by Joseph Isaac Asscher, who founded the IJ Asscher company in Holland, which was later renamed to the Royal Asscher Diamond Company. The business is still in operation today and counts other legendary diamonds such as The Cullinan Diamond and The Excelsior Diamond as part of its their heritage.

Now that you have the low-down on Asscher cut engagement rings, here are some options you’ll fall in love with.