Textile Technology

This paper is an examination of the account book of Middlesex County, Ontario weaver, John Campbell, dating 1859 to 1885.  I describe the provenance and physical format of the account book and I provide context by discussing the weaver, John Campbell.  I consider themes such as the production and consumption of cloth and speculate about how the account book can be used as a historical source.

Hallstatt offers a unique situation for textile research: a major collection of textile finds, representing the period from the 16th to the 4th centuries BC, can be used to reflect the development of Central European textile expertise. Excellent preservation allows for the Chaîne opératoire, complete with manufacturing processes and secondary uses, to be charted

Ancient Roman female hairstyles were not created by wigs exclusively, as is often asserted.  Elaborate Roman hairstyles  could be created by sewing with needle and thread as fastener. Article examines the nomenclature, literature, artifacts and intellectual history of the topic.  Illustrated with hairstyle recreations using real hair.

Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to illustrate how the introduction of new technologies can lead to reconsidering the division of the production process as well as the location of each stage, which may mean reshoring some of them.

Design/methodology/approach
The research is based on the analysis of the consequences of new technologies developed and introduced in the market to be applied in the final stage of jeans manufacturing. The paper presents the relevance of this technology, based on an in-depth interview with the representatives of the firm as well as firm and press reports, specialised websites and so on. The information of the reshoring company has been confirmed by its press releases.

Findings
The results show that a new technology justifies the reconsideration of the stages in which the production process can be divided and, once this division is considered viable, the drivers for reshoring can become more/less important in the reshoring decision.

Practical implications
Firms that previously offshored should consider that new technological processes may lead them to slice their value chains differently, causing them to seek the optimal location for each of the stages.

Originality/value
Most of the reshoring literature is based on a static framework where the production process is considered stable and the reasons for reshoring must reside in the change of relevant parameters (such as cost differentials, need to be more flexible, monitoring costs higher than expected, etc.). This paper reveals that changes in the production process, even in traditional sectors, may lead to reshoring/backshoring.

Following new trends we applied oxygen uptake rate (OUR) tests as well as long-term tests (in two batch bioreactors systems) in order to assess the biodegradability of textile wastewater. Effluents coming from a dyeing factory were divided into two streams which differed in inorganic and organic contaminants loads. Usefulness of the stream division was proved. Biodegradation of the low-loaded stream led to over 97% reduction of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD 5) together with 80% reduction of chemical oxygen demand (COD) and total organic carbon (TOC). Most of the controlled parameter values were below the levels allowed by legislation for influents to surface water, whereas the high-loaded stream was so contaminated with recalcitrant organic compounds that despite the reduction of BOD 5 by over 95%, COD, TOC, total nitrogen and total phosphorus levels exceeded permissible values. OUR tests were aimed at determination of the following kinetic parameters: maximum specific growth rate (μ Max), half-saturation constant, hydrolysis constant and decay coefficient for activated sludge biomass for both types of textile wastewater studied. The values of kinetic parameters will be applied in activated sludge models used for prediction and optimisation of biological treatment of textile wastewater.

Resumo: Este artigo tem o intuito de analisar a contribuição dos imigrantes alemães na criação da indústria têxtil catarinense a partir do século XIX e seus avanços ao longo dos anos. Neste mesmo período, a Europa, em especial a Inglaterra, já possuía um vasto sistema fabril, tendo como carro chefe a indústria têxtil. Dessa forma, o objetivo é promover uma análise lado a lado do avanço dessa indústria que teve início com a chegada dos imigrantes com a tecnologia já em utilização nos países europeus. Nosso recorte será de 1880, ano de surgimento das primeiras empresas têxteis, até 1920, um ano após o fim da Primeira Guerra Mundial pois o período é um marco importante para o crescimento da indústria catarinense e brasileira. Palavras-chave: Santa Catarina; colonização; indústria têxtil Abstract: This article plans to analyse the contribuition of german imigrants on the creation of the textile industry in the state of Santa Catarina at the 19th century, alongside its progress over the years. At that same time, Europe, mainly England, already possessed a vast industrial system, the textile one being the flagship of it. That said, the object of this study is to promote a side to side analysis of the advances of this industry that began with the arrival of the immigrants with the technology that was already in use in the European countries. The analysed period will be from 1880, year of creation of the first industries, until 1920, a year after the end of the First World War, important period for the growth of the industry.

Existence of interoperability within the enterprises is essential for textile supply chain to efficiently face the challenges from contemporary competitors, to find new business opportunities and to render better customer service. Exchange of business documents, being semantically consistent, is the way to achieve interoperability. However, heterogeneity of the structures of the enterprises poses challenges for establishing interoperability. Ontology based semantic interoperability framework has now been proven as an effective solution for enterprise interoperability. In this paper, the existing ontology-based interoperability solutions in the context of textile supply chain have been compiled and research gaps have been identified. The ontological methods, such as unified process for ontology (UPON) and methontology have been analyzed, and UPON have been shown as a suitable ontology development method for textile supply chain.

—knitted fabrics find numerous applications in sportswear fabric industry, during their use it can be subjected to loading-unloading due to the body movements which can be indirectly affected by the dynamic elastic recovery value of the fabrics. The cyclic loads lead to the redistribution of fibers in the yarn structure, because they tend to get the minimum level of energy. Dimensional properties of knitted fabric are widely affected by the externally applied forces that could involve permanent deformation. Cotton/Spandex knitted fabrics are widely used for several applications. In this work, an attempt was done to analyze the effect of cyclic loading on cotton/spandex knitted fabric subjected to the different levels of cyclic loading under different values of initial extensions. Knitted fabric mechanical properties with different percentages of spandex were tested. The fabric properties and the number of cycles indicate the change of the residual extension and the drop in the fabric strength and stiffness.

Silk fibre has received attention in the biomedical sector rather than textile production because of its excellent biocompatibility properties in the past century. Although silk fibre properties are different from area to area, it has created an opportunity in the biomedical sector to develop new silk-based medical textile products. &is research work aimed to study the structural, physical, mechanical, and thermal properties of Ethiopian silkworm cocoon’s filament. Eri and mulberry silk fibre properties such as morphological structure, chemical properties, linear density, filament length, tensile strength, elongation, thermal property, and luster were measured using ES ISO and ASTM standard methods. Statistical analysis result showed that eri silk fibre from Arba Minch had water removal temperature between 100°C and 125°C with a degradation temperature of around 400°C and eri silk fibre from both Addis Ababa and Awassa had an almost similar water removal temperature around 100°C and...

The weft straightener is an intricate product. But how to produce robust and durable products? Our hope is to produce weft straighteners, even though reasonable price, much reliable in many respects from the view point of customers. It is a product, not research. Photo-electric things, image processing cameras and other state-of-the-art technologies are accessible to everybody; however, the most important thing is who can simplify the system, minimize the cost and “Satisfy Customers!”

Textile  industry  is  playing  a vital  role in  the  Indian economic  growth  of  the country through its  contribution  towards  GDP,
employment,  exchange  rate,  exports,  total  production  etc.  The  purpose  of  the  study  is  to  identify  the  difficulties  of  textile
companies facing challenges from the general manager’s point of view on financial sustainability of  selected textile companies.
The study has used factor analysis for exploring various dimensions of barrier as well as weighted average method and other tests  for  selected  measurement  analyzes  using  SPSS-17  version  for  different  statistics.  Overall,  the  large  scale  companies performing very well with automatic plant with modern innovation products, medium scale unable to produce due to  various reasons and impacting the growth and technological factors as well as facing various difficulties. It reflects overall textile issues and challenges as general results towards the structured questionnaires.

Abstract
The present invention relates to fabric testing apparatus. In November 2011 the 1st electronic version of a digital
thickness test method apparatus tutorial of thickness test method for velvets and knitting fabrics was released in
the Kaferelsheikh University, Egypt. Functioning in a multitask mode of pressure. Its contents corresponds to the
discipline "calculation and designing of the machines in light Industry”, for fabrics to measure their thickness, with
specific of force collaboration on velvets and knitting fabrics, were developed for 3D loops " weft" and harness on
thickness, quantification of digital clothes, and using of them in many different applications such as simulation digital®
in textiles and apparel industry
Keywords: Electronic version; Digital thickness; Velvets; Knitting
fabrics

Self-repair is one of the most promising functions of smart materials, and is now represented by a variety of material families including plastic and concrete. The capability to autonomically heal results in materials that can last longer without maintenance, and which demand fewer resources for structural applications. Recently, SINTEF scientist Susie Jahren and her research team have created a self-repairing textile. Designed for professional fishermen whose attire takes a beating at sea, Jahren's textile coating self-heals small tears that develop in the surface of waterproof clothing. "We have shown that the principle works. Holes and tears we have made in test pieces in the lab close up all on their own," Jahren says. To create the coating, the scientists added micro-capsules of healing agent to liquid polyurethane. When the polyurethane hardens, it forms a resilient surface that bonds with the textile. Jahren explains that "if the coating tears, the capsules burst in the damaged area. Here the sealant content is released and hardens when it comes in contact with water and air, so the coating seals itself." Since traditional polyurethane poses health hazards, it would be ideal if Jahren's team could use an isocyanate-free or bio-based polyurethane resin. For now, the project is still in the laboratory testing phase. "In this project we are at the same time developing durable coatings intended to reduce the likelihood of holes and tears occurring at all," Jahren says. "The garments we are developing for fishermen will also include integrated floatation functions. We also plan to incorporate a man-overboard button in the clothing which sets off an alarm enabling fishermen to be located rapidly in the event of an accident."

Background Spandex production accounts for 0.9% of the world natural and manufactured fiber production. It is used in sweaters, tops, trousers, formal suits, jackets, sleeveless dresses, vests and knickers, shaped garments, hosiery, swimwear, sportswear, and bodies. While the increase in Spandex production and markets is significant, little scientific research has been published. This research goal is to explore the potential of using filling yarns containing Spandex to produce 3-D effects. The 3D effects are developed through woven fabric design with varying tightness. Variation in tightness cause differential shrinkage upon removing the fabric from the loom and/or washing while in relaxed state. Loose weave structure causes more shrinkage as compared to tight weaves. The differential shrinkage causes parts of the design to be raised in the direction perpendicular to the fabric plane.

Weft knitted regular rib (1×1) fabric stretch and recovery property are very tough to control. This project and thesis work have been devoted to studying the effect of variation of stitch length, yarn count, and GSM on the stretch and recovery properties of weft knit regular rib fabric. Three yarn counts, each with 4 level of stitch length, was manufactured for the purpose of this experiment, remaining the machine set up, dyeing and finishing process constant. In this research, it was found that the better stretch and recovery property of regular rib fabric can be produced by using 2.6 mm to 2.65 mm stitch length for yarn count of Ne 28/1 KH and GSM of 195 to 205.

The study aimed to explore the impact of investment decision making on financial performance of the textile industry from managers perceptions. The Indian textile industry is the second largest industry in the world, after China. After agriculture, textiles play a major role in the country’s economy, in terms of exports. Textile is providing the second-highest employment opportunities in India. Tamil Nadu is also making the highest contribution in the total domestic production, consumption and exports, after Maharashtra, Haryana and Gujarat. As is well-known, the Indian economy had faced the crunch due to the impact of meltdown on exchange rate volatility, interest rate changes, raw material cost fluctuation, import restrictions, demand for export, worker’s shortage and competitive products with modern innovations. Researchers concentrated only on the factors impacting investment decision in the textile industry and found the different perception among the finance manager and CEO using Independent sample test.

The Article provides an overview of the historiography of the description of Dagestan carpet-weaving as a component of the domestic economy, material culture and aesthetic consciousness, as well as some ornamental and compositional and technical characteristics of local varieties of carpets and rugs.
Analysis of literature data and field ethnographic materials suggests that Dagestan carpet-weaving is characterized by ornamental features and compositional diversity; by abundance of local centers which used to produce these carpets and rugs; by art and technical features of Dagestan carpets which visibly testified in which part of Dagestan, in what village they are woven. Actually, this seems the most impressive feature of the Dagestan carpet culture. It is noteworthy that many well known types of Caucasian rugs are named as Lezgi (Mirakh, Akhty, Kabir, Akhty, Zahur (Zeihur), Chi-Chi), Kumyk (Kayakent, Kumtorkala), Avar (Tlyarota) villages. In the World there are no analogues to ornamental and color composition of flat-weave carpet types "dum","davagin", "salmag" "soumakh ", which were woven in a certain Kumyk, Avar, Lezgi villages.
So, the particularly of Dagestan carpet-weaving is expressed by:
a) the abundance of original carpet designs, developed to canonical level of perfection and clearly localized in the districts and villages;
b) variability of the ornamental and technological characteristics:
с) plurality of local types of carpets;
g) fineness of weaving technique;
d) quality of wool of the Dagestan mountain breed of sheep;
e) coloring properties of the Derbent madder roots which, comparing with all known World species of this plant, has a superior content of the red colorant. All this, combined with the skillful, painstaking work of the weavers, determines the finesse of the Dagestan carpets, which is easily detected by the naked eye and without special knowledge.

Indian Textile industry is playing an essential role in the world after China and it is contributing growth towards GDP, employment, exchange reserves, exports, total production etc. It investigates the investment decision factors, risk, and growth factors of CMIE registered Indian Textile companies from the state of Tamil Nadu. The study has used regression analysis to know which investment factor is highly impacting on the financial performance and which risk factors are highly impacting on the textile finance companies. Factor analysis used to explore the growth factors of textile companies and have identified four factors from pilot study using SPSS. The study finds management outlook is the highest impact factor on the performance of textile companies from the investment factors, it also find that the competitor risk is the highest impact among the risk factors of textile companies. Further the study suggests that the companies first emphasize on utilizing the resources efficiently to improve the performance through up-gradation of new technology, make changes in the textile policy by the local government, generate quality products with less cost, focusing on sustainability in order to boost the overall efficiency.

Textile Technology and Design addresses the critical role of the interior at the intersection of design and technology, with a range of interdisciplinary arguments by a wide range of contributors: from design practitioners to researchers and scholars to aerospace engineers. Chapters examine the way in which textiles and technology – while seemingly distinct – continually inform each other through their persistent overlapping of interests, and eventually coalesce in the practice of interior design.

Covering all kinds of interiors from domestic (prefabricated kitchens and 3D wallpaper) to extreme (underwater habitats and space stations), it features a variety of critical aspects including pattern and ornament, domestic technologies, craft and the imperfect, gender issues, sound and smart textiles. This book is essential reading for students of textile technology, textile and interior design.

The aim of this study is to evaluate environment supportive pretreatment and dyeing process. In this project, pretreatment of cotton fabric was done by using banana ash. Also, dyeing was carried out with banana sap along with different mordants that are eco-friendly and cost saving. Here, all the experiments were carried out on woven (plain) fabric of 141 GSM. Firstly, cotton fabric was scoured by means of banana root's ash (pH-10.2). It was then dyed with banana sap (pH-5.4). This banana ash scoured cotton fabric was compared with conventionally scoured cotton fabric through weight loss % and absorbency test. In addition, fastness properties and performance of dyeing were measured through CIE L*C*h, K/S value, and different color fastness tests. Banana ash scoured and dyed with banana sap, using mordant (horitoky), provided the best dyeing performance and color fastness to wash, rubbing, and perspiration than the others.

With the depletion of layer the earth become vulnerable
for exposure of harmful UV radiations. The harmful UV rays
reduce the effectiveness of folic acid supplementation by 20%
with pregnant women. Hence, clothing with inherent property of
UV protection is envisaged. In this paper, the UV protection
characteristics of bamboo material blended with cotton,
polyester and modal are investigated at three levels of fibre ratio.
The test results showed that bamboo/modal blends are
significantly better than bamboo/cotton and bamboo/polyester
fabrics.

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approach – The authors used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, the authors made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, the authors produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, the authors calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape wor...

Started in 1961 as a mechanical workshop for textile’s machines spare parts and gradually begins to produce machines to cut, brush and finishing corduroy, thus satisfying the specific requirements of the numerous corduroy manufacturers of the area.

Its activities throughout the 60's and 70's grows considerably thanks to a vast extension of the range of machines produced.
In the beginning of the 80's, Carù develops its first Sueding Machine, internationally patent for their high efficiency.
In the following years these machines were diversified and perfected, both technically and production-wise, so as to completely satisfy all sueding requirements.

In the same time, taking advantage of it's deep knowledge of composite materials (carbon fibra) and of the most sophisticated automation and electronic storage systems, Carù begins to produce highly customised Raising, Shearing and Cleaning machines. With more than 40 year old of experience, Caru’ have occupied a position of first importance in mechanical textile field all over the world.

The continuous use of chemical drugs leads to hyper sensitivity immune suppression and allergic reaction. There is a need to develop alternative herbal drugs to avoid these side effects.The herbal Crinum asiaticum is a bulbous herb found in many contries has good medical properties like curing of injury, inflamed joints, treatment of skin disease and inflammation.The present study deals with acetone extracts from the leaves of crinum asiaticum plants were application of this extraction to 100% cotton fiber, bandage cloth, knitted and woven fabric by using pad-dry-cure method. This treated material was investigated for their antibacterial activity against gram negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli and gram positive bacteria Staphylococcus aureus,Staphylococc viridians and Bacillus subtilis using the agar well diffusion methods. It is found that the treated material has got good antibacterial properties and antimicrobial natural dye.

Abstrakt Príspevok pojednáva o vývoji remesiel v spojení s výrobou textilu a odevov. Štúdia sa zameriava sa na vývoj špecializácií a ich združovanie sa do cechov s cieľom zmapovať fungovanie cechov a priebeh vzdelávania remeselníkov od učňa po majstra. Zachytáva neľahké podmienky mladých ľudí počas učňovských rokov, skúsenosti na vandrovkách a snahy mladých tovarišov získať titul a status majstra. Príspevok tiež uvádza špecializácie, ktoré sa v priebehu rokov sformovali do samostatných remesiel. Abstract The paper deals with the development of crafts connectioned with the production of textiles and clothing. The study focuses on the development of specializations and their association into guilds with the aim to map the functioning of guilds and the course of training of craftsmen from apprentice to master. It captures the uneasy conditions of young people during apprenticeship, experiences on hikes and the efforts of young journeymen to earn the title and status of master. The paper also mentions specializations that have been formed into independent crafts over the years. Počiatky remesiel a remeselníckych dielní Potreba človeka obliekať sa a chrániť si telo pred poveternostnými podmienkami siaha hlboko do prehistorických čias, kedy to bolo skôr súčasťou boja o prežitie, ako potrebou páčiť sa. S vývojom človeka a jeho manuálnej zručnosti sa však vytvoril priestor aj pre iné potreby. Na prelome kamennej a bronzovej doby si kmene začali budovať sídliská, ktoré sa časom preformovali do hradísk a kde sa sústredil nielen život ľudí, ale aj produkty ich výroby. Textil a odev boli predmetmi dennej spotreby a už v 6. a 7. storočí bolo na slovenskom území dobre rozvinuté tkáčstvo. Toto remeslo bolo doménou žien, či už prostých alebo bohatých. Ich povinnosťou bolo vedieť spracovať vlákna rastlinného aj živočíšneho pôvodu. V 9. až 12.

Les pesons de métier à tisser sont souvent les principaux témoins des activités textiles, à côté des fusaïoles ou de plus rares outils en matériaux périssables telles que les tablettes, lames de tissage... Outils qui documentent diverses techniques de réalisation des étoffes alors que les produits sont très rarement conservés. Leur étude représente donc un enjeu majeur. Par-delà l'unité que représente l'utilisation du métier vertical à pesons en Europe protohistorique, l'analyse techno-fonctionnelle des pesons, permet d'aborder cette diversité. Les pesons prismatiques, liés aux contextes de l'âge du Fer en Europe septentrionale en sont un exemple particulièrement intéressant. Les résultats issus de l'étude du matériel du site du Tierceau (Orp-Jauche, Belgique) fournissent l'occasion d'un bilan sur ces outils, ainsi que sur leur diffusion diachronique et géographique. Abstract Loom-weights are often the main witnesses of textile activities, next to spindle whorls or rarer tools made of perishable materials such as tablets, weaving blades.... Tools that document various techniques for making fabrics when products are very rarely kept. Their study therefore represents a major challenge. Beyond the unity represented by the use of the vertical load cell loom in protohistoric Europe, the techno-functional analysis of loom-weights makes it possible to address this diversity. Prismatic loom-weight, linked to the Iron Age contexts in northern Europe, are a particularly interesting example. The results of the study of the material at the Tierceau site (Orp-Jauche, Belgium) provide an opportunity to review these tools, as well as their diachronic and geographical distribution.

La raffinatezza dei veli bolognesi è conosciuta e apprezzata sui principali mercati europei dal XIV secolo. Tale successo dipese da un’innovazione tecnologica che migliorò sia la qualità del prodotto finito sia il sistema produttivo. Di questo tema, di cui si possono cogliere gli sviluppi nel corso dell’Età moderna, si è ampiamente occupato Carlo Poni , secondo il quale il filatoio e il torcitoio meccanici messi a punto dai bolognesi possono essere considerati tra le prime invenzioni che portarono alla rivoluzione industriale
Le prime testimonianze sulla produzione serica bolognese risalgono al XIII secolo. Gli statuti cittadini incominciano a tramandarne traccia dalla redazione del 1245-67 con l’intento di tutelare la produzione locale, attestata dall’allevamento dei bachi e dalla trattura . Questo contributo analizza la produzione e la tipologia dei veli bolognesi dalle fonti dell'Arte dei setaioli bolognesi per comprendere le caratteristiche tecniche di questi inimitabili manufatti.

Prof. Dr. Elsayed Ahmed Elnashar,  Kafrelsheikh University, Egypt. Editorial Board Member Certificate(associate Editor).  , International Journal of Commerce and Management Research,  http://www.managejournal.com/board    ,    www.managejournal.com , http://www.managementjournal.in/board