BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
Rita Volpe
T
he Colle Oppio, or Oppian hill, is the southernmost height of Rome’s Esquiline hill. It lies
between the Via Merulana and the Colosseum. A large park crossed by a central avenue was
laid out here in the 1930s within which lie the imposing ruins of the Baths of Trajan and the buried
chambers of the Domus Aurea (fig. 1).
1. The Construction of the Baths of Trajan on the Colle Oppio
The Fasti Ostienses1 record that Trajan inaugurated and opened his magnificent new bath complex
to the public in A.D. 109; it was built on a plot of land in the center of town near the new Flavian
Amphitheater (Colosseum). This area had formerly housed part of the Domus Aurea. It faced onto
the populous neighborhoods of the Esquiline and the Subura.
As director of the project, literary sources2 cite Apollodorus of Damascus, who created an
architectural model to be adopted later by the larger imperial Roman baths. The complex was
characterized by two different sections: externally there was an open area with gardens, colonnades,
and chambers intended for sports and cultural activities; this surrounded a central building with
symmetrical rooms designed on either side of a central axis. These catered to the bathing procession
from natatio to frigidarium to tepidarium to calidarium.3
The baths were laid out in an area extensively damaged by the great fire of A.D. 64. Back then
Nero had designed and built here a large pavilion of his Domus Aurea, which lay between the
Augustan Porticus Liviae to the north and the valley with the stagnum (by now occupied by the
Colosseum) to the south.
Presumably the land probably already belonged to the emperor when Trajan chose it for his
baths; the new complex extended over an area of 6 hectares, between the Augustan Porticus Liviae
to the north and the Flavian Baths of Titus to the south. Taking in such amenities as the large water
reservoir known as the Sette Sale (the Seven Halls) and the horreum in front of it, the baths would
In November 2013 Kimberly Bowes kindly invited the
archaeological team of the Sovrintendenza ai Beni Culturali
di Roma Capitale (Giovanni Caruso, Marta Giacobelli, Francesco Pacetti, Simonetta Serra, Carla Termini, Rita Volpe) to
give a lecture in the American Academy in Rome about the
new discoveries on the Oppian hill. I thank Dr. Bowes for the
chance to publish this essay in the MAAR as a consequence
of that lecture.
1
The opening day of Trajan’s Baths was 22 June A.D. 109:
MAAR 61, 2016
X K. Iul. Imp. Nerva Traianus. Caes. Aug. Germ. Dacicus.
Thermas suas. Dedicavit et publicavit (II 8.1.5; Paus. 5.12.6).
2
Dio Cassius (69.4.1): “Hadrian first drove into exile and
then put to death the architect Apollodorus, who had carried
out several of Trajan’s building projects: forum, odeion, and
gymnasion.”
3
On the Baths of Trajan: Caruso and Volpe 1999; 2001.
Fig. 1. Rome, Oppian hill. The Baths of Trajan over the current aerial photo; in the circle the excavation’s area
(photo Volpe and Rossi 2012).
Fig. 2. Rome, Baths of Trajan, the
southwest exedra (photo F. Rossi).
Fig. 3. Baths of Trajan, the southwest
corner with the exedra and the portico
facing it (photo Volpe 2010).
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
61
have covered over 10 hectares of the city.4 Its eastern limit may have coincided with the rampart of
the ancient Servian Wall.
The new complex was orientated northeast/southwest to make the most of the warmth and
brightness of the sun. This distinguishes it from the north/south orientation of all of the previous
buildings in the area (such as Domus Aurea) constructed after the fire of A.D. 64.
Prior to construction all of the pre-Trajanic buildings were flattened to the predetermined
ground level of the future thermal complex. The remaining standing structures went to form some
of the supporting substructures.However, new structures needed to be added to fill the open
spaces of the earlier buildings (such as the courtyards and peristyle of the Domus Aurea). This
change of orientation makes it easier to distinguish earlier structures from those of the Trajanic
buildings.
Archaeological excavation in the southwest corner of Trajan’s Baths carried out between 1990
and the present day has uncovered another piece of Rome’s past prior to the Trajanic construction,
in addition to the Domus Aurea. One of the most substantial of the remains of the ancient baths
can be seen here: the large exedra in the southwest corner. This is known as the Grande Biblioteca
(Large Library) since it contains twenty wide niches intended for shelves to contain papers and
documents (fig. 2). Like the similar one in the southeast corner, the exedra faced onto the portico
that surrounded a large open green area (fig. 3).
The portico was built over a vaulted passageway that had been constructed as a means of
consolidating the substructures and was not intended to be accessible. Archaeological excavation
inside this gallery has led to the discoveries that are the theme of this essay.
2. The Discoveries inside the Trajanic Gallery
During the archaeological excavations carried out in the gallery between 1998 and 2004 some walls
aligned north/south came to light (fig. 4). These are the remains of pre-Trajanic buildings. The first
discovery occurred in 1998: after excavating the earth that had entirely blocked the near end of the
tunnel, at the far end the façade of a large building came to light. It had at least three naves and
was aligned north/south so it was earlier than the baths. Part of the fresco that had covered the
brick façade had survived just to the right of the monumental entrance.5 The fresco, now known
as the Città Dipinta (Painted City) depicts a city enclosed by walls and overlooking the sea (fig. 5).
The fresco is unique for its dimensions and has since become a significant milestone in the study of
Roman landscape painting.6 Another fresco with a different city probably adorned the other side
of the main entrance7 of the building. This was probably intended for a public function, possibly
related to the administration of the city.8
4
On the Sette Sale: De Fine Licht 1990; on the horreum:
Volpe and Geri 2011.
5
Volpe 2000; Caruso and Volpe 2000; Volpe 2010.
6
La Rocca 2000; 2001; 2008.
7
The archaeological evidence for another fresco is suggested
by the discovery of some fragments of painted fresco in a
deeper excavation in the corner of the gallery, depicting a
second, different city: Volpe 2010.
8
The type of building and its monumental entrance, as well
as the choice of decoration, would imply the existence of a
public building. A Flavian period praefectura urbi has been
conjectured (Caruso and Volpe 2001), with the supposition
that this would naturally have been relocated with the Trajanic
phase of construction: Volpe 2000; Caruso and Volpe 2001. It
may be no coincidence that many of the written records to do
with the prefect’s office (albeit dating to late antiquity) originate
from the nearby area of S. Pietro in Vincoli: see Marchese 2007.
The rank of praefectus urbi was particularly familiar to the early
dynastic and subsequent republican period (Tac. Ann. 6.11
Fig. 4. Baths of Trajan, the
southwest Trajanic gallery
and the topography of the
earlier quarter
(photo Volpe 2010).
Fig. 5. Structures under
the Baths of Trajan, the
fresco of the “Painted
City” (photo M. Fortini,
Sovrintendenza
Capitolina Archives).
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
63
Fig. 6. Structures under
the Baths of Trajan,
vendemmia (grape harvest)
mosaic (photo S. Castellani,
Sovrintendenza Capitolina
Archives).
The insertion of a tiny photographic camera into one of the scaffolding holes in the Trajanic
brickwork that was blocking the access gave a first glimpse of the great vaulted room that would
have been the entrance. Part (ca. 3 × 2 m) of its original mosaic decoration remained. Five male
figures were depicted performing various operations associated with the grape harvest (fig. 6).9 This
building, with its fresco and mosaic, can be dated to the Flavian period based on both the building
technique and the style of painting and mosaic, as well as its pre-Trajanic orientation.10
A few months later there was a further discovery in the middle of the same gallery: This was
another building, also earlier than the construction of the Baths of Trajan. Both buildings were part
of the quarter built by the Flavian emperors in the spaces available after the great fire of A.D. 64.
Until the death of Nero these had been kept exclusively for the Domus Aurea. The remains of a
mosaic depicting a Muse and a Philosopher11 adorned a wall of this building (fig. 7). It had almost
been cut in half diagonally during the construction of the baths.
It was immediately clear that the wall and its mosaic decoration extended beyond the excavated
area, but further excavation wasn’t possible until 2011 and 2013.
dates its origins to the reign of Romolus; Livy 1.59; Dion. Hal.
2.12; Lydus Mens. 1.19); the office was definitively reinstated
during the Augustan period and was reserved for senators
who held consular rank. By means of the cohortes urbanae
(formed by Augustus in A.D. 5: Suet. Aug. 49.2; Dion. Hal.
55.24.6; Tac. Ann. 4. 5) the urban prefect, diligentissimum
atque eundem lenissimum securitatis urbanae custodem (Vell.
Pat. 2.98), was expected to maintain public order (as well
as guarantee supplies to the city of Rome). Over time the
prefect’s legislative role was expanded, and by late antiquity
it had become the most important magistrate’s office for
the administration of justice (see the essential contribution
of Vitucci 1956 for the later middle imperial period and
Chastagnol 1960 for late antiquity).
9
By 2004 surface excavation above the gallery had made
it possible to climb down into this space from above. In
December 2010 the grape harvesting hall (more precisely
the part of the hall that had been sealed off by the Trajan
intrusion) was fully excavated. This was the entrance hall
accessed via the monumental gateway adorned with the
Città Dipinta. Several sections of the detached mosaic were
recovered. However, in many cases the over 10-m drop had
caused too much damage, disintegrating the fragments and
leaving what was depicted illegible. The mosaic must have
adorned the whole of the vault with various decorative styles.
Different types of marble were used, chiefly Parian for the
white background. The tesserae were frequently irregular
and roughly cut. See Billi 2016.
10
See Caruso and Volpe 2000; Volpe 2000; 2010.
11
Caruso and Volpe 2000; Volpe 2000; 2010.
RITA VOLPE
64
Fig. 7. Structures under the
Baths of Trajan, mosaics with
Muse and Philosopher (photo
S. Castellani, Sovrintendenza
Capitolina Archives).
Fig. 8. Structures under the
Baths of Trajan, overview of
the long wall with mosaics
after the excavation and test
pits in 2014 (photo F. di
Majo, Sovrintendenza
Capitolina Archives).
3. The Room with the Wall Mosaics
With the demolition of a late eighteenth-century construction associated with the modern gunpowder mill known as the Fabbrica de’ salnitri12 almost halfway down the gallery in 2011, the excavation
could be extended to include the room of the Muse and Philosopher. Excavation took place both
inside and out of the room. The archaeological deposit was made up of a series of backfills and
trodden levels associated with the construction of the Trajanic gallery.13
12
The gunpowder mill known as the Polveriera or Salnitrara
Camerale was moved here from the Palatine hill at the end of
the 1700s. It gave its name to the nearby Via della Polveriera.
The structure occupied the first stretch of the gallery and
the area in front and above it: see Caruso and Volpe 1994;
Pontani 2010.
13
Excavation continued until February 2014; at the time of
writing (late 2014), in anticipation of further funding for its
resumption, work is in progress on a means of opening the
site to the public. There was a preliminary presentation of
the mosaics at the AIEMA 2012 international conference:
Caruso et al. 2015; and at the conference in Lucca in the
same year: Termini 2016.
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
65
Fig. 9. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, excavation test pit against the long eastern wall with mosaics,
with clamp holes and seashells frame (photo M. Di Ianni, Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
Two perpendicular walls of the room were exposed. Almost 16 m of an east wall (fig. 8) and 10
m of a south one were exposed. Given its different alignment from the Trajanic Baths above, the
room had been cut diagonally during the construction of the gallery. The length of the other side
of the room is known thanks to a single surviving trace of the west wall in the southwest corner,
adorned with seashells. Thus far the two walls have been exposed to a depth of 5.5 m of a calculated
height of 10 m (see below). Though now somewhat patchy, they were originally completely covered
in decorative mosaics. The possible existence of angular plaster pilaster strips can be conjectured
from the rectangular impression found in both corners bordered by the mosaic decoration.
So far two decorative registers have been exposed, the upper one vertically shorter than the
lower. At the end of the excavation two test pits, approximately 2 m × 80 or 90 cm, were sunk
against the east wall to a depth of 80 cm, one to the left, the other in the center. The hope was to see
whether there was a further mosaic register below or anything else. In both pits traces of what may
have been a cornice or inscription came to light. Before it was removed during the construction of
the Trajanic gallery, this architectural element had been held in place by metal clamps and framed
with seashells and a mosaic decoration (fig. 9).
Several architectural elements are depicted in the decorative mosaic, providing an almost
theatrical backdrop: smooth-leaved Corinthian capitals decorated with garlands and scrolling
vegetation pick out a series of buildings mirrored across a central vertical axis upon which the
composition converges. In the upper register within a niche delineated by Tuscan columns a
young male takes the stance of a “heroic nude” (fig. 10). On both sides of the niche figures stand
among the columns of the symmetrical buildings. A muse and bearded philosopher stand to the
Fig. 10. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, central
young male figure of the upper register (photo S.
Castellani, Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
Fig. 11. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, lower
register of the long mosaic, central image (photo
Zètema, Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
67
left.14 To the right a statue of a centaur stands on a pedestal (there may have been a twin figure
on the other side where now there is a blank space). He is accompanied by a second female figure
(perhaps another muse) and a beardless male in Greek costume, again a philosopher. It would be
easy to assume that the central male figure is Apollo as god of the arts surrounded by muses and
philosophers. On the other hand, he could represent the hero of some mythological scene depicted
here. In his left hand he holds an oblong object, with his fingers slipped into a depression on the
bottom. It is held steady by a belt across his chest. Sadly the object is difficult to recognize and
decipher as it could have helped identify the figure.
The lower register is much taller than the other. Here again a portico with tall columns provides
an architectural backdrop. The same scrolling vegetation is present as above over the columns, but
here there are also symbols associated with Dionysius. These include theater masks, shepherds with
their crook or pedum, heads of satyrs, panthers, and sea panthers with fish tails. The portico stands
on a dark red plinth whose decoration alternates among friezes, cornices, vegetal motifs, and figures
to create a chiaroscuro effect.
Unlike the upper register, where the figures appear somewhat static, in the scene below many of
them shift in and out of the portico, moving within the space almost like characters in an unfolding
story. Here too the figures are disposed on either side of a central image that is unfortunately missing.
Two figures stand in a spacious opening set back into the base of the portico (fig. 11). The head,
torso, and feet of a male figure can be made out, while all that remains of the other, female figure
is the face and neck, slightly crooked to one side. Between them a few steps are depicted front on.
Presumably these lead up to the portico. A small female figure on the steps is handing something
to the man at her side. This may be the same leafy (ivy or vine leaf) crown that he is seen placing
on his head. The man sits bare-chested with a shawl across his shoulders. The firm lines of his face
have been furrowed by life’s experiences and middle age, and his noticeably big ears make it likely
that this is an actual portrait, probably of the person who paid for the work and whose house it
is. The fine features of the female figure on the other side of the steps may also be a portrait, most
probably of his wife.
On the left-hand side of the portico a line of four women can be seen (fig. 12): the first from
the left holds a green beaded ribbon; the second is seated, adorned with a diadem, bracelet, and
arm band; she looks toward a third beshawled woman dressed in a tunic with one foot on a stairway
that will lead her out of the portico; there she will find a fourth female figure, draped against one
of the columns, naked but for a wrap covering her right leg, while a no-longer-identifiable object
lies in her left hand. Only the head remains of the next in line, a male figure.
On the other side further figures alternate inside and out of the portico (fig. 13). From the left:
inside, a female figure stands dressed in spectacular shimmering colors, her hair gathered; outside
stands a woman with marked features and a wrinkly, stocky neck; back inside is probably a female
figure, her face with strong lines; a third badly damaged figure, perhaps a woman, is wearing a white
shawl; in the foreground in front of the portico stands the last figure on the right, who is dark skinned,
possibly of North African origin, a conclusion borne out by the figure’s broad nose (badly preserved)
and dark curly hair tied in a band across his forehead. Here too the figure is dressed in the Greek
fashion. Instead of being muscular the thick torso appears misshapen with the onset of middle age
spread. It is almost as if the artist responsible for the right side of the mosaic felt more at ease depicting
clothing (in an incredible display of shimmering colors) rather than human anatomy (fig. 14).
14
This part of the mosaic was discovered in 1998 and has
already been published; see above and n. 6: Volpe 2000; 2010.
Fig. 12. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, lower register of the long mosaic: four women into a portico
(photo S. Castellani, Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
Fig. 13. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, lower register of the long mosaic: the figures on the right
(photo Zètema; Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
69
Fig. 14. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, lower register of the long mosaic, the figure beside the right corner, still visible
the travertine blocks below the plaster (photo Zètema, Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
Less remains of the decoration of the shorter southern wall of the chamber. The construction
of the gunpowder mill powder tubs15 has extensively compromised this section. The upper part
of the wall was patched up during the construction of the powder tubs. These were built directly
above (and with the same dimensions as) the underground nymphaeum.16 Today access to the
nymphaeum is via a modern breach just below the bipedal brick load-bearing arch over the door.
Originally there was a window here above the travertine lintel of the doorway. There may have been
another window in the same wall farther to the right. A wide opening some 1.7 m wide is visible,
now bricked up,17 and originally it may have provided access to a flight of stairs to the upper stories.
The little that remains of the mosaic decoration appears to be a continuation of the two registers
present on the east wall. Here, too, it is articulated around an architectural backdrop (fig. 15). Part
of the colonnade depicted in the upper register has survived. It rests on a horizontal lintel picked
out in a blaze of blue and yellow glass paste tesserae.
In the opposite corner part of the perspective colonnade of the lower register survives. In the
foreground a male figure appears to be walking to the left looking over his shoulder: he wears a leafy
crown and a bulgy cloak. The wall decoration terminates in a vertical red painted strip encrusted
with seashells highlighted with white tesserae. This is to emphasize the corner of the room where a
tiny part of the west wall has survived destruction by the Trajanic foundations.
15
For the gunpowder mill, see n. 12 above.
16
A further wall, probably from the same period, blocks an
irregular hole in the vault of the nymphaeum. This was prob-
ably cut by Renaissance “excavators” in search of antiquities.
17
This too can be associated with the construction of the
gunpowder mill.
RITA VOLPE
70
Fig. 15. Structures under the Baths of
Trajan, shorter southern wall with mosaics,
architectural backdrop (photo S. Castellani,
Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
4. Technical and Stylistic Characteristics of the Mosaic
Most of the tesserae used on both walls are made from glass paste. In some cases these have deteriorated, altering their original tonality. There are also colored marble tesserae: light gray palombino,
ash-colored porta santa, yellow giallo antico, red rosso antico, and some made from terracotta.
The tesserae are fairly regular, about .5 cm square. For the background scenes and architectural
elements they have been laid in fairly regular courses, whereas those used for the faces, the folds
of the clothing, and especially the decoration of the plinth and the columns can vary in shape and
size, adapted to fit to the shape required.
At several points where the tesserae are missing the colors are visible where the underlying
plaster has been painted to guide the craftsman. Often, however, the underlying colors don’t seem
to correspond to the colors of the overlying tesserae. In some cases the figures are picked out with
a silhouette of reddish-brown tesserae. The white highlighting would imply that the surface of the
mosaic may have been bathed in light, though no indication remains as to its source. The numerous
glass paste tesserae would have been particularly dazzling.
In some spots the symmetrical layout of the picture makes it possible to try and fill in the gaps,
but the loss of so many tesserae complicates matters. The bare spots cannot be the result of the
mosaic disintegrating over time because most of the wall was buried when the room was backfilled
during the construction of Trajan’s Baths. The lack of fallen tesserae in these backfilled deposits
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
71
would imply that the mosaic may have been removed during the Trajanic construction. On the upper
part they might even have tried to strip away the whole picture. This would have left in place only
the parts lain with greater care, usually the figures. This phenomenon, also identified at the Domus
Aurea,18 could explain the almost horizontal cut nearly halfway down the lower cycle. Here it seems
likely that a different method was used, aimed at recuperating tesserae of the same color. In this case
those in the background in particular are missing, as is much of the clothing of the female figures,
both areas of predominately the same color and apparently easier to recycle.
5. Identification and Date of the Building
The representation on the large wall mosaic can be classified as the Pompeian Fourth Style. The single
elements have matching iconographical counterparts in the frescoes that adorn the houses in Pompeii
renovated after the earthquake of A.D. 62. However, the decoration can be dated primarily thanks
to the stratigraphic record. For the first phase of construction of the east wall, large ashlar travertine
blocks were used. These are visible where the preparatory plaster layer is missing. Some of them are
slightly inclined and would have been lintels, proof that originally there would have been three large
doorways in the wall. The chamber would therefore have been highly accessible from the outside,
implying that it may have been a public building. From the rough exterior of the ashlar blocks we can
presume that the façade was left undecorated. The north/south alignment of the buildings in this part
of the city, including this one in travertine, can be dated to the Neronian and Flavian reconstruction
after the fire of A.D. 64. Subsequently (presumably toward the end of the century, probably in the last
quarter century)19 the doorways were bricked up. At the same time a brick wall was built to raise the
height of the façade some 2 m, and the rough finish to the ashlar blocks was smoothed down to provide a flat surface for the wall mosaic that was to cover the entire expanse. So the room was no longer
open to the outside, but it became an internal space giving onto the nymphaeum mentioned above.
It may well have been the presence of water that called for the use of mosaic as opposed to
fresco. As of yet this is the largest known example of wall mosaic.
6. The Nymphaeum
Unfortunately the nymphaeum is still filled by backfill up to the base of the barrel vault. The vault
is entirely covered by a layer of plaster that in many points preserves the pointing for a mosaic. Tiny
blue glass tesserae go to make up a background speckled with yellow stars within circles (fig. 16).
The edges of the mosaic are emphasized by a red painted band encrusted with shells. To the south
the back wall is almost entirely filled by a large semicircular niche. There is a large robber cut where
there was once a lead waterpipe, confirmation that this was a nymphaeum (fig. 17).20
The entrance lay on the north wall, originally covered by a travertine lintel. Only two blocks
are still visible. Over the door a load-bearing arch straddles a 2-m-high square window. If the door
18
The advice and experience of Elio Paparatti has been
invaluable in the interpretation of these voids. His thorough work on the Domus Aurea also provided some useful
comparisons.
fall within a time span that runs from the great fire in A.D.
64 to the beginning of the second century, when the Baths
of Trajan are built.
20
19
As previously mentioned, all of the pre-Trajanic buildings
The niche is 3.90 m wide; the length of the fistula hole is
1.33 m max.
RITA VOLPE
72
Fig. 16. Structures under the Baths of Trajan, mosaics
on the vault of the nymphaeum (photo Volpe,
Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
Fig. 17. Baths of Trajan, robber cut of the water pipe in the
nymphaeum (photo Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
below were the height of the lintel + window + arch (3.5 m) the room would have been 7.5 m high.
This would mean that the floor level would have been the same as the room with the mosaic over
which it looks. This leaves a depth of at least 4 or 5 m left to excavate, which would take us more
or less to the same floor level as the adjacent building of the Painted City.21
Several questions still remain unanswered: How was the lower part of the two rooms decorated?
What kind of floor did they have? Did the water from the nymphaeum flow up into a fountain or
pool in the room, which would explain the use of mosaic instead of fresco, highlighted by shells
in some points? And finally was it a large nymphaeum-triclinium or a reception hall? By its very
nature mosaic resists humidity better and so is often used in nymphaea and fountains. The cornices
adorned with seashells, typical of the type of decoration used in nymphaea, apparently confirm the
presence of water, possibly playing water games in the room.
It seems likely in any case that the room was part of a private residence, perhaps the home of
the man depicted in the mosaic. For the moment no matching likeness has been found with any of
the imperial family, but in any case this must have been somebody incredibly prominent, given the
fact that what was a “public” space has been requisitioned. Not to mention such an ostentatious
display of wealth by splashing some hundreds of square meters of wall with mosaic! In the small
world of wall mosaics that have come down to us, this is without doubt an exceptional find, both
for its size and for the complexity and quality of the work.
Excavations and research are still going on, and maybe the interpretation of the building’s architectural and decorative features will enable us to determine the original function of the room and the
identification of the context in which it is located. The study of the mosaic and its elements is still only
beginning and is likely to provide an additional subject for study for future generations of scholars.
7. Other Finds in the Gallery: Graffiti and Inscriptions
The area on the other, outer side of the wall mosaic was also excavated. Here too was a series of
backfills and trodden levels associated with the construction of the Trajanic gallery. A trial trench
was sunk to the level of the travertine blocks that had been seen on the other side. The aim was to
discover whether the blocks were present on both sides of the wall, below the brick construction
21
Volpe 2000, 524.
BEFORE AND BELOW THE BATHS OF TRAJAN (ROME)
Fig. 18. Baths of Trajan, the outer side of the wall mosaic,
with Trajanic planking levels (photo S. Castellani,
Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
73
Fig. 19. Baths of Trajan, the graffito on the plaster of the outer side of the wall
mosaic (photo S. Castellani, Sovrintendenza Capitolina Archives).
and behind the layer of white plaster that coated both building phases. There were two reasons
behind the operation: first to verify the state of preservation of the structure and evaluate any
damage; and second to relieve any excessive pressure from the weight of the soil on the outer wall
when the interior was excavated.
A depth of approximately 1.5 m of Trajanic backfill over the whole area was removed (fig.
18). The roughly triangular shape of the site was defined by the eastern wall of the gallery and the
façade of the mosaic wall. Excavation ceased about 3 m short of the crest of the wall, on one of the
Trajanic planking levels. Excavation of the backfill confirmed that at least to this level the white
plaster covering the façade continued uninterrupted, with numerous gaps and holes of varying
shape and size. About 1.6 m below the crest of the wall the surface of the plaster appears to have
been incised with a horizontal cut. Beneath it some Latin graffiti was decipherable. One stands out
in particular, a couplet already documented among the Pompeiian graffiti (fig. 19):
QVISQVIS AMAT VALEAT PEREAT QVIS NESCIT AMAREM
[sic]
BIS TANTO PEREAT QVIS AMARE VETAT
Who loves lives, the loveless live death! And love dies twice when it’s denied.22
The graffiti are concentrated at the center of the wall at what must have been a fair height above
ground level. This wall should have been some 9 or 10 m high, which leaves the graffiti at about 7
or 8 m up, well out of normal reach. Unless there were some kind of gallery, of which no physical
evidence remains, the graffiti must date to the Trajanic construction phase, when the succession of
backfills and planking levels would have raised the workmen to the right height.23 The whole of the
façade is puckered with holes of various sizes and depths, probably from the Trajanic building phase.24
Work in the gallery goes on: At the moment a project is underway in the hope of introducing
the site to the public, prior to continuing research, excavation, and future discoveries.
22
The anonymous couplet must have been fairly well known.
Almost exactly the same text has been found on various walls
in Pompeii (CIL 4.1173 add. p. 204), as well as abbreviated
versions CIL 4, n. 3199; CIL 4, n. 4091; see also CIL 4.3200d,
5272, 6782).
23
Analysis of the graffiti continues to shed new light on the
organization of the Trajanic building site and the workmen
involved.
24
The Trajanic building site contains numerous inscriptions
painted in red on the brick walls, signaling the day and date
on which they were built (see Volpe 2002; 2008, 2010; Volpe
and Rossi 2012).
RITA VOLPE
74
Bibliography
ABBREVIATIONS
CIL
II
Mommsen, T., et al., Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum (Berlin 1862–)
A. Ferrua and A. Garzetti, Inscriptiones Italiae (Rome 1948–1986)
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