The Art of Cask Finishing The Art of Cask Finishing

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFF HARRIS

The Art of Cask Finishing

–––––– Jonny McCormick, , , ,

Back in 19th-century Scotland and Ireland, whisky merchants also sold wine, bringing in popular fortified wines like port and sherry. Casks filled with wine were shipped across the sea from Spain and Portugal, and once they were emptied, the merchants would often refill them with whisky from a nearby distillery rather than discard them and pay for new casks. Eventually, people came to see that a whisky’s maturation in wine casks contributed some very nice flavors. Ireland’s whiskey merchants, famously Dublin’s J.A. Mitchell & Son with its Spot whiskeys, were particularly renowned.

But those days were more about cost expedience, and generally involved full maturation rather than finishing per se. It was in Scotland during the early 1980s that cask finishing as a modern art form was born. In 1982, David Stewart, former malt master at Speyside distillery Balvenie, decided to see what would happen when a whisky aged in American oak casks was transferred to a sherry cask for a short finishing period, just to add an accent or extra layer of flavor. The result was a ringing success. That whisky became The Balvenie Classic, and has been known to us since 1993 as Balvenie DoubleWood. Aged in American oak for 12 years, it’s given a finish in oloroso sherry casks for about 9-10 months. DoubleWood is still Balvenie’s cornerstone today.

Another single malt innovator, Glenmorangie, was also experimenting with cask finishing in the 1980s. In 1987 it released Glenmorangie 1963, a bourbon cask-matured whisky finished in oloroso sherry casks for 18 months to provide a bit more depth and intensity. There was no particular groundswell over these innovations at the time, but it was the start of the whisky world we live in today. The art of finishing is now practiced to great effect in major whisky-producing countries, with master blenders dispatched to far-flung cooperages around the world in search of interesting cask types, all aimed at pushing the flavor spectrum to the outer limits of creativity.

At its most sublime, finishing can finesse the aromas and flavors of a whisky with deep layers of complexity and intricate nuances. Yet it’s a practice that must be carefully micro-managed: Used clumsily, it can smother and mask the whisky’s character. Some whisky nations, like Scotland, have tried to govern finishing with rules about what types of cask distillers can and cannot use—wine, spirits, and beer casks are allowed, but not permitted are casks that held cider or stone fruit juices, or liquids with flavorings added after fermentation or distillation. In other countries unrestricted by finishing regulations, producers exhibit a wide array of cutting-edge cask techniques.

Today the portfolios of the leading whisky houses are loaded with finished whiskies, still led by Glenmorangie and Balvenie to a large extent. American whiskey makers were slow to the movement at first, largely because U.S. regulations require bourbon to be aged in charred new American oak, but the appearance of Angel’s Envy’s port-finished expression in 2011 changed all that. A trickle of finished American whiskeys has now become a steady flow of new creations, and in the rest of the world, distillers’ portfolios are loaded with an array of cask finishes. Here follows a selection from the wide world of cask finishing that is well worth a try.

THE FINISHING EFFECT

The term “finished” describes a whisky that’s been filled into secondary casks to enhance its final flavor. Some producers use the term “secondary maturation” for longer finishing periods lasting several years. But there is no official definition for any of it, and no set formula for any particular cask-finishing technique. It’s a skill acquired by trial and error over time. Finishing can take a matter of days, but typically it takes a period of a few months and in some cases years. Warehouse teams draw cask samples at frequent intervals for the tasting team to determine the speed and uptake of new flavors from the finishing cask.

SHERRY

Sherry is the oldest of wine barrel finishes, and can coax out a variety of flavors. Oloroso is the predominant style used, adding rich dried fruits, spice, chocolate, and nuts. Floral, herbal, and almond notes are derived from fino and amontillado casks, and plum and raisin notes from Pedro Ximénez casks.

95 McCarthy’s 6 year old Oloroso Cask Finished (2023 Limited Release) American Single Malt, 56%, $120

A limited release, but here’s hoping this Oregon-based single malt maker will bring it back. Smoked meat, barbecue, charcoal, orange, bitter chocolate.

94 Redbreast Pedro Ximénez Edition Irish Single Pot Still, 46%, $86

Finished in PX casks for 12 to 22 months. Deeply fruity, red cherry, soft licorice, nutmeg, chocolate, plum, and black tea.

94 Tomintoul Cigar Malt Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $130

Dark and rich, with sea air, prominent but not overwhelming smoke, hickory wood, chocolate-covered peanuts, and pleasant earthiness.

93 Angel’s Envy Oloroso Cask Finished Bourbon, 50%, $200

Aged in new charred oak and then finished for an unspecified period in oloroso casks. Flan and crème caramel, vinous notes of cherry and berry coulis, toasted almonds, and warm bananas.

93 Glenfiddich 12 year old Amontillado Cask Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $55

Amontillado accounts for only 5% of Glenfiddich’s sherry casks, and is used to good effect here. Sweetness and depth, showing orchard fruit, rich oak, dried fruit, and spice.

93 Laphroaig 10 year old Sherry Oak Finish Scotch Single Malt, 48%, $90

Matured in American oak and finished in oloroso casks for at least 18 months. Chocolate cake and warm chocolate syrup, burnt coffee beans, and cooked dark fruits, with a touch of peated sweetness at the end.

92 Bowmore 15 year old Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $100

Matured for 12 years in bourbon barrels and finished for 3 years in oloroso casks. Dark chocolate and cocktail cherries, with peat smoke and a hint of dry oak balancing sweet fruitiness.

92 Sagamore Spirit Reserve Series Sherry Finish Rye, 53%, $80

Aged for 4 years, then finished in a 132-gallon Pedro Ximénez cask for 18 months. Spice, cinnamon, sweet cherry, candied orange, dark chocolate, and tobacco leaf.

91 Dalmore 18 year old Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $100

Aged 18 years in bourbon barrels before being finished in Matusalem oloroso sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass that held 30 year old sherry. Hot chocolate, salted caramel, stewed fruit, sea salt, honey.

91 Tyrconnell 10 year old Sherry Cask Finish Irish Single Malt, 46%, $75

After 10 years in bourbon barrels, finished for 6-8 months in oloroso casks. Warm grassy tone wrapped in a blanket of sherry, apple, and sultanas, with cherry and honey nougat.

90 Mars Maltage Cosmo Manzanilla Cask Finish Blended Japanese, 42%, $140

Aged primarily in bourbon barrels and finished in manzanilla casks, a sherry style not often used in whisky finishing. Clementine peel, creamy toffee, apple, lemon, vanilla, fresh herbs, and crisp green apple.



Traditional rabelo boats on the Douro River CRISTIAN BAITG / GETTY IMAGES

PORT

As with sherry, a variety of port casks and styles are used, including ruby, tawny, white, rosé, and vintage. In addition to deepening the color of the whisky in red wine fashion, port casks introduce cranberry, cherry, plum, and blackberry flavors.

94 Angel’s Envy Cask Strength Port Barrel Finished Bourbon, 60.2%, $200

Aged four to six years in new American white oak barrels, then finished for up to six additional months in port casks. Cooked berries, brown sugar crumble, marzipan toasted nuts, chocolate.

94 Bushmills 25 year old Irish Single Malt, 46%, $900

This was matured in bourbon and sherry casks before a lengthy 21 year finish in first-fill ruby port pipes. Intense berry flavors, with raspberry, black currant fruit pastilles, and plum, with clove, pepper, and milk chocolate.

94 Old Elk Port Finished Bourbon, 54.05%, $90

Number 15 in Whisky Advocate’s Top 20 of 2023. Aged in new charred oak barrels for an unspecified period, then finished for 1 year in port casks from Portugal, not the U.S. port-style fortified wine barrels used by some American distillers. Cherry compote, vanilla bean, cocoa powder, and cinnamon-sprinkled nuttiness.

92 GlenDronach Port Wood Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $90

Matured in bourbon barrels, then finished in port pipes for a period of 3 years. Fig, dried cherries, glazed banana chips, chocolate-covered cherries, and spiced Christmas cake.

92 High West A Midwinter Night’s Dram Port Barrel Finished Rye Act 11 Scene 1, 49.3%, $150

High West’s Rendezvous rye finished in tawny and ruby port casks. Cherry cordials, plums, earthy mint, jammy blueberries, cinnamon, and vanilla.

92 Redbreast Tawny Port Cask Edition Irish Single Pot Still, 46%, $100

Matured in bourbon and oloroso sherry casks, then further aged in tawny port casks for several years before being married in tawny port hogsheads for 14-25 months. Toffee, marmalade, clove-studded orange, chocolate caramels, dried cranberry, and damson.

91 Balvenie PortWood 21 year old Scotch Single Malt, 40%, $350

First released in 1996, the Balvenie malt master creates a marriage of Balvenie matured in American oak before filling it into port pipes for the finish. Red grape, vanilla, milk chocolate, nuts, plum, and an elegantly dry finish.

91 Glen Scotia 11 year old White Port Finish Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $80

Matured in bourbon barrels and then finished in white port hogsheads for 12 months. Maritime notes, light spicy peat smoke, vanilla toffee, green apple, and salted caramel.

91 Talisker The Wild Explorador (Diageo Special Releases 2023) Scotch Single Malt, 59.7%, $135

Finished in a combination of white, tawny, and ruby port casks. Saltiness, peaty tang, floral, fruity notes of cherry, cranberry, and raspberry, then forceful spice.

90 Glen Moray 21 year old Portwood Finish Scotch Single Malt, 46.3%, $180

Aged in American oak casks, this one is then finished for 2 years in port casks. Raspberries, ginger, vanilla custard, sultanas, chocolate liqueur, honey, and marzipan.

89 Dewar’s 8 year old Portuguese Smooth Blended Scotch, 40%, $22

Aged and finished in port casks, this blush-toned blended scotch has flavors of dried apricot, honey, vanilla sugar, butterscotch, and cherry syrup.

89 Tomintoul 12 year old Kedem Port Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 40%, $75

Finished in Kedem kosher port wine casks, this has strawberry sweetness and spicy red wine notes, red cherry, cinnamon, chocolate, and cherry brandy liqueur chocolates.


MADEIRA

Madeira casks provide honey and sweet fruits. It’s still a somewhat atypical finish compared to sherry and port, but one that’s being seen more often these days. Many of the major whisky makers have tried their hand at this one.

93 Bushmills The Rare Cask 30 year old Madeira Cask Irish Single Malt, 49%, $1,000

This was finished for 17 of those years in a madeira cask. Peppercorn, nutmeg, coriander, dried fig, cooked apple, caramel, and chocolate.

93 Tyrconnell 10 year old Madeira Cask Finish Irish Single Malt, 46%, $70

Aged 10 years and then finished for 3-5 months in madeira casks. Tropical and fruity, with peach, mango, cantaloupe, caramelized pineapple, honey, cream, and soft coconut.

92 Amrut Madeira Finish Indian Single Malt, 50%, $150

Limited edition. Vinous notes, orange peel, crème brûlée, honey, toasted coconut, chocolate, and lemon.

92 Blackened + Willett Kentucky Straight Madeira Cask Finished Rye, 54.8%, $140

Aged an average of 6.5 years, then finished in madeira casks for an unspecified period. Cinnamon, apple pie, babka, cranberry, Red Hots, bitter coffee, and pepper spice.

90 Angel’s Envy Madeira Finished Straight Bourbon, 50%, $230

A limited edition, finished in madeira casks for over a year. Toffee honeyed peanuts, bitter espresso, light caramel, eucalyptus, and lemon zest.

88 Penderyn Madeira Finish Welsh Single Malt, 46%, $70

A stalwart of the Penderyn core range, it has flavors of candied orange and lemon, herb garden, toffee, tropical fruits, and grated chocolate.



Tokaji wine casks in Hungary COURTESY OF VEGA SICILIA

OTHER WINES

Bordeaux, California, and Beyond

Wine barrels made of French and American oak are the usual choice of winemakers, and the freshly emptied barrels are sought by distilleries. The properties of the oak and the residual wine influence the final whisky. Red wines typically impart summer berries, jammy notes, and spices, while dessert wines like sauternes drape the whisky with sweet honey and syrup flavors.

93 Glenmorangie A Tale of Cake Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $99

Finished in tokaji dessert wine casks. Marzipan, shortbread, sweet oranges, toasted nuts, leathery oak, tobacco, marmalade, and figs.

93 Green Spot Quail’s Gate Single Pot Still Irish, 46%, $70

Finished in pinot noir casks from Quail’s Gate winery in British Columbia, Canada for 16 months. Cumin, coriander, raspberry, cranberry, and red apple.

93 Rampur Asava Indian Single Malt, 45% $90

Re-casked into Indian cabernet sauvignon barrels for an unspecified period. Damson, black currant, aromatic spices, vanilla, cherry, candied orange, and pipe tobacco.

93 Thomas S. Moore Chardonnay Cask Finish Bourbon, 48.95%, $70

A chardonnay barrel-finished bourbon is not often seen compared to other wine finishes. Book bindings, roasted pecans, vanilla, blackberry and raspberry preserves, lemon and orange peel.

92 Aberfeldy 18 year old Cabernet Sauvignon Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $130

This cabernet sauvignon barrel-finished expression features cherry, plum, blackberry, heather honey, and malt.

92 The Whistler 10 year old French Oak Finish Irish Single Malt, 46%, $75

Finished in sessile oak barrels previously used for Grand Cru Bordeaux wine. A dreamy whisky with green apple, melon, hard candy, poached pears in cream, and a hint of cocoa.

91 Penelope 6 year old Cooper Series Tokaji Cask Finish Rye, 53.5%, $80

It’s unusual to find rye whiskey finished in sweet tokaji barrels. Fresh grain, grape jelly, vanilla, toffee, blueberry tarts, and raspberry jam.

91 Royal Salute 21 year old Polo Estancia Blended Scotch, 40%, $150

The renowned Royal Salute finished in Malbec casks from Argentina. Dried cranberry, red grape, fresh walnut, milk chocolate, peppercorn, and vanilla pod.

90 Ammunition Pinot Noir Finish Rye, 45%, $50

Finishing this rye in pinot noir brings bright zingy lemon, baked apple, sugar cookies, powdered sugar, cinnamon spice, and dark chocolate.


OTHER SPIRITS

Rum, Tequila, Cognac, Awamori, and More

First-fill bourbon barrels add honey, vanilla, caramel, and toasted oak notes to a whisky, rye barrels bring spice and cinnamon, and peated casks inject smokiness to unpeated whiskies. Rum casks imbue tropical fruit sweetness, while brandy and cognac casks add spice, leather, and cooked fruit. Tequila and mezcal casks introduce agave flavors, herbal notes, and citrus.

94 Deanston 15 year old Tequila Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 51%, $280

Aged in oak hogsheads for 13 years before spending an additional 2 years in tequila casks. Lime, honey, vanilla, barrel char, green banana, crème brûlée, and key lime pie.

94 Glenfiddich 29 year old Grand Yozakura Awamori Finish Scotch Single Malt, 45.1%, $2,000

Breaking new ground with an Awamori finish using casks from Okinawa, this well-aged Speyside malt has flavors of creamy vanilla, honeyed apple, cocoa, cinnamon bark, and a spiced apple finish.

93 Craigellachie 13 year old Bas Armagnac Finished Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $65

Aged in bourbon and sherry casks before getting a year of finishing in Bas Armagnac casks for just over a year. Well spiced, honeyed, and full of vanilla sweetness, with some espresso and black pepper.

93 Glenfiddich 21 year old Reserva Rum Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 40%, $210

A Speysider with notes of white pear, honeysuckle, pecan pie, foamy meringue, lime shred marmalade, and soft oak.

92 Bardstown Bourbon Company Chateau de Laubade Armagnac Cask Finished Straight Bourbon, 53.5%, $160

A 12 year old Indiana bourbon that’s finished in armagnac casks from Chateau Laubade for 18 months. Syrupy cherry, raisins, figs, milk chocolate, ginger, and white pepper.

91 Chivas Regal Extra 13 year old Tequila Cask, 40%, $45

Among the early movers in tequila cask finishing. Floral, perfumed soaps, Jaffa orange, pear, grapefruit, tequila, and pepper.

91 Hirsch Selected Whiskeys Cask Strength Cognac Cask Finish, 62.5%, $200

Finished in 30 year old casks from cognac producer Hine. Chocolate babka, French toast, strawberries, blueberries, baking spice, espresso, and chocolate.

91 Portmagee Blended Irish, 40%, $60

Finished in Barbados rum casks, serving up notes of tangerine, malt, sugared lemon, grapefruit, and creamy vanilla.

90 Hudson Whiskey Back Room Deal Rye, 46%, $55

A rye finished in a peated scotch barrel. Honey, caramel, cinnamon, sugar cookies, menthol, Fig Newtons, cinnamon-sugar toast, vanilla, and toasted macaroons.

89 Johnnie Walker Select Cask Rye Cask Finish Blended Scotch, 46%, $45

Aged in first-fill American oak casks for at least 10 years, then finished in rye whiskey barrels. Cinnamon, cocoa, toasted macaroon, walnut, caramel, and spicy rye.



Blue agave for tequila MATT MAWSON / GETTY IMAGES

GOING THE WHOLE 10 YARDS

Not every whisky maker chooses to have their liquid go through a round of finishing in classic finishing casks like sherry, port, and others. Some go all the way, maturing the distillate for its entire maturation period in casks more commonly used for finishing. Examples include whiskies from Yamazaki, Kilchoman, Kavalan, Penderyn, and Kaiyō.

95 Yamazaki 18 year old Mizunara 100th Anniversary Japanese Single Malt, 48%, $1,500

Layers of complexity have developed after full maturation in mizunara oak, including yellow plum, pear, sandalwood, manuka honey, incense, and cinnamon.

94 Kavalan Cask Strength Port Cask Taiwanese Single Malt, 59.4%, $250

This was fully matured in Portuguese port pipes. Dried cranberry, plum, leather, black cherry, red licorice, and vanilla essence.

93 ImpEx Collection Penderyn Blandy’s Malvasia Madeira Cask 5 year old Welsh Single Malt, 57.4%, $140

A single cask fully matured in a Malmsey cask, it’s a dry, sweet, full bodied whisky, with apple syrup, red currant, creamy toffee, rose hip, and pepper.

92 Kilchoman PX Sherry Cask Matured Scotch Single Malt, 50%, $130

Fully matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks from Bodega José y Miguel Martin in Jerez, Spain, this has sherry fruit, peat smoke, cigar wrapper, muscovado sugar, and zested orange.

91 Kaiyo - Ariake Wood Collection The Kuri Japanese Whisky, 46%, $75

Distilled in Japan and matured for over 7 years in Japanese chestnut casks, this is fruity and creamy, with soft fruits, orange, lime, kiwi, persimmon, and ground ginger.


NEW WOOD

This is about finishing in new barrels, and each wood type brings something different to the table. New American oak creates vanilla, toffee, and peppery spice; while woods such as limousin and chinkapin oak ramp up the spice factor and the nuttiness; mizunara oak from Japan adds sandalwood, incense, and cedar notes; while Brazilian amburana boosts flavors of cinnamon and vanilla.

96 Redbreast Kentucky Oak Irish Single Pot Still, 50.5%, $95

Aged in a combination of bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry butts, then finished for 4 months in air-dried American oak from Kentucky. Coconut, brown sugar, cherry, warm apple pie, and vanilla.

95 Dewar’s Double Double 21 year old Mizunara Oak Cask Finish Blended Scotch, 46%, $150

Citrus, lime zest, sandalwood, lemon zest, and white chocolate are the result of finishing in Japanese mizunara oak.

94 Barrell Craft Spirits Cask Finish Series Amburana Bourbon, 58.21%, $90

Finished for an unspecified period in amburana oak barrels, also known as Brazilian oak. Cinnamon spice, dark roast coffee, oat milk, cocoa powder, and chocolate-covered raisins.

94 Four Gate Japanese Mizunara Oak Finished Bourbon, 58.7%, $250

A 7 year old Kentucky bourbon that’s been finished in mizunara oak. Cinnamon and baking spice, Sugar Daddy, chocolate brownies, and menthol.

94 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath Forest (Tree 5) Irish Single Pot Still, 56.5%, $320

Irish single pot still whiskey finished in oak from Ireland’s Knockrath Forest. Lemon, vanilla, meringue, creamy custard, and spice.

93 Hibiki Blossom Harmony Blended Japanese, 43%, $160

Finished in cherrywood—sakura in Japanese—this blend has notes of floral sweetness, apple, sour cherry, honey, grapefruit, and dried citrus.

93 Ohishi Sakura Cask Finished Japanese whisky, 42.7%, $90

Sherry matured for an unspecified period before being finished in sakura casks for 27 months. Cherry lozenge, caramelized sugar, black currant, strawberries with cream, puff pastry, honey, light cherry, and tingling spices.

92 Deanston Virgin Oak Cask Strength 2023 Edition Scotch Single Malt, 58.5%, $98

Finished over a year in virgin oak casks and then bottled at cask strength. Orchard fruit, honey, oak, apple cider, and vanilla fudge.

89 Athyr Cedarwood Finish Lebanese Single Malt, 46%, $116

Initially aged in 120-180 liter clay amphorae, then finished in cedarwood. Chocolate, sweet, baked orange, root beer, licorice, and honey.


BEER

After distillers dump whisky from their barrels, some brewers use them to age their beer. The beer usually rests in the casks for 2-3 months and once disgorged of the beer, the barrels often find their way back to the distillery where they are filled with whisky again. As for effect, a creamy stout or rich, malty dark ale cask adds coffee, chocolate, nutty, and toffee notes to whisky, while pale ales bring floral, citrus, and hoppy flavors.

95 Lagavulin 11 year old Offerman Edition: Guinness Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $80

Our Whisky of the Year in 2021, this was finished for 4 months in Guinness casks from its former U.S. brewery in Maryland. Peat smoke, maritime notes, fragrant citrus, toffee, chocolate, and coffee.

92 Jameson Caskmates Angel City Brewing Co. Edition Irish, 40%, $30

Jameson’s beer-finished whiskey program partners with craft brewers around the world, this one with Los Angeles brewer Angel City. Honeyed, light fruit, vanilla creaminess, with peppercorn and dark chocolate.

92 Sagamore Spirit Ale Cask Finished Rye, 49%, $69

A 4 year old rye finished for 11 months in bourbon barrels used for aging ale, this one has notes of grape hard candy, roasted coffee beans, semi-sweet chocolate, and pepper spice.

91 Mars Komagatake IPA Cask Finish Japanese Single Malt, 52%, $200

An IPA cask-finish from Japan’s Mars Shinshu Distillery. Apple, honey, hops, vanilla, baked lemon, honey, and spice.

90 Starward Ginger Beer Cask Finish No. 7 Australian Single Malt, 48%, $100

Australian whisky finished in ginger beer casks for 1 year. Ginger root, lemongrass, chicory, vanilla, citrus, and stewed fruits.

89 Milk & Honey Art & Craft Doppelbock Beer Cask Finish Israeli Single Malt, 58.2%, $120

Israeli whisky finished in doppelbock casks from a local brewer. Orange, chocolate, spiciness, malt, and coffee.