The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn
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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
TRAININGBETA PODCAST

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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

  1. 18 DEC

    TBP 279: Overcoming Fear of Climbing Above Bolt - A Mindset Coaching Session

    In this episode I do a full mindset coaching session with Nathaniel Lamont, a Canadian climber whose performance is being affected by his fear of falling above his bolt while lead climbing. We go through the reasons he’s afraid and I help him figure out ways he can feel more in control of the controllables.Then we make a plan to work through some of his fear with strategic fall practice.

    1h 9m

  2. 4 DEC

    TBP 278: Using Zen Philosophy for Performance Anxiety, Fear, and Grief with Francis Sanzaro

    Francis Sanzaro is a 45-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 30 years. He got his PhD in the Philosophy of Religion and has been studying the practice of Zen for decades. In recent years, he started applying Zen more directly and intentionally to his climbing and found that his performance and his enjoyment of the sport increased dramatically, so he wrote a book about it: The Zen of Climbing. I HIGHLY recommend the book!  I had him on the show to discuss the book and to have him tell us exactly what it means to apply Zen philosophy to your climbing. It's not complicated and you can start using these principles right away. What I took from the book is that I don't have to have as many emotions about climbing as I think I do. All I'm doing is trying my best to get to the top of a climb, and that's all it really needs to be.  What we talked about: What Zen is as it relates to climbing How to use Zen with performance anxiety How to practice Zen in everyday life Dealing with failure using Zen practices Dealing with FEAR using Zen Using Zen in his grief process after (and during) losing both of his parents recently

    1h 44m

  3. 12 NOV

    TBP 277: Climbing Sessions to Train Power Endurance, Endurance, and Strength

    Coach Matt Pincus discusses some drills he uses with his clients and himself to train the different energy systems in climbing: power endurance, strength, and endurance.

    1h 18m

  4. 23 OCT

    TBP 276: Ashley Hardy on Climbing 5.13c with No Gym, No Training, & a Full-Time Job

    Ashley Hardy talks about how she climbs outside 4 days a week with a full-time job and how she climbed 5.13c with no conventional training.

    1h 12m

  5. 16 OCT

    TPB 275: Fundamentals of Strength Training for Climbing with Matt Pincus

    Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate strength training sessions into your routine, why you’d do that, and which exercises to do, whether you’re a novice, intermediate, or elite climber. He provides 2 fully laid out strength training days for you at the end.

    1h 25m

  6. 1 OCT

    TBP 274: Dr. Stacy Sims on Climbing Training and Nutrition for Aging Women

    Stacy Sims, MSC, PHD, is a well-known exercise physiologist and nutrition scientist who has done groundbreaking research and education for women in athletics. Dr. Sims has published over 100 peer-reviewed papers and several books and is a regularly featured speaker at professional and academic conferences, including those by USOC and USA Cycling. Stacy currently holds a Senior Research Associate position with SPRINZ- AUT University, supervises PhD students, writes academic papers, and is on the advisory board of some cutting-edge companies, including Tonal Strength Institute, WILD.AI, and EXOS. She also has her own business (www.drstacysims.com), creating and delivering online learning material focused on women training with their physiology across the lifespan. I highly recommend her book Roar, which first introduced me to the differences in women's vs men's needs in sports performance. It was mind-blowing, honestly, and so validating to learn that a lot of what we've been taught about exercise science doesn't really apply to women. After all, the research was mostly done on men, and that is what Dr. Sims is trying to change.  I was honored to sit down with Stacy to talk about some really important topics for perimenopausal and menopausal women, and all females in general. She really knows her stuff and speaks quite scientifically, so I asked her a lot of clarifying questions so we can all make use of the information she provided. I hope you enjoy this one!  What we talked about: The real journey she had with menopause herself Why running stopped working for her body and what she did instead An optimal training schedule for peri- or menopausal females Cortisol differences as we age and what it does to our bodies How estrogen plays into aging and athleticism Which exercises are best for energy levels and body composition for menopause The all importance of sleep for aging women Carbs and menopause Caffeine for menopause Intermittent fasting? Which supplements are worth it

    1h 26m

  7. 18 SEPT

    TBP 273: Route Projecting Tactics for an Efficient Sending Season

    Coach Matt Pincus discusses some very detailed rock climbing projecting tactics to make your process more efficient. He goes over why you’d use a top-down vs ground-up approach, why you might want to use both of them, and when each is appropriate. This is for you if you want to hear from a 5.14/V12 climber about how he gets projects done and how he advises his clients to get theirs done. You can sign up to work with Matt as your coach at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.

    22 min

  8. 4 SEPT

    TBP 272: Charlie Schreiber Coaches Me on My Climbing and Training

    Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach at ParadigmClimbing.com who was recently on the show. After that episode was done recording, we decided we should do a coaching session with him as my coach! So we recorded it right then and there, which was a couple months ago. In the session, he asked me a lot of clarifying questions to figure out how to create a training program for me, which he did the day after this conversation (links below to see that program or find them on trainingbeta.com on the show notes from this episode).   https://docs.google.com/document/d/18JBLYCCkn3EE-D7C9KP7dlN1nwLCKW-Q80vQBgVDkyU/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1TK0LTuP2utFDqO3T4jVgdbandJTdcKbwNagwc6YP_iA/edit?usp=sharing

    1h 7m
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5 Ratings

About

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

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