The Best Mechanical Keyboards
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Your keyboard is the most direct line of communication between yourself and your computer —whether gaming, working from home, or doing anything else in front of a screen. Why not invest in one that's reliable, fun, and enjoyable? I love mechanical keyboards—I even open up boards and tinker with them. Over the past few years, I have tested dozens, ranging from the fastest gaming keyboards to those offering elevated typing experiences. These are the best mechanical keyboards of the hundreds you can find online.
With keyboard advances over the past few years, you can’t go wrong with anything in this guide—everything I recommend is well-built, sturdy, and feels great to type on. That said, what I like might not be what you like—more than anything else, the “best” keyboard comes down to what features you want and what kind of feel you prefer when typing.
We have more PC peripheral guides, including Best Keyboards (which include styles like chiclet keyboards), Best Gaming Mice, Best Computer Speakers, and Best Computer Monitors.
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First, Read Our Mechanical Keyboard Explainer
Things can get pretty in-the-weeds when shopping for a mechanical keyboard. You'll probably come across terms like switches, PBT keycaps, hot-swappable, 75% keyboards, TKL, and so on. If you're curious about what these mean, I recommend you read my comprehensive How to Choose and Customize a Mechanical Keyboard guide.
You do not need to understand all of these words if you want a fun, good, mechanical keyboard that just works—almost all of my recommendations below are fully assembled keyboards. They're all hot-swappable, so you don't have to feel locked to a particular type of switch. Spend some time with your new board, and if you want to make a tweak or try a new set of switches, well, that's the beauty of mechanical keyboards—you can customize them whenever you'd like.
- Photograph: Henri Robbins
Best for Productivity
Keychron Q5 Pro and Q6 ProSeveral WIRED Gear team members use Keychron mechanical keyboards every day. The company has a vast selection of keyboards (you'll find a few more in our guide), and they're all generally well-built with a simple user experience. Excellent straight out of the box, these are sturdy, reliable, and satisfying to type on. Everything from the gaskets to the stabilizers is dialed in from the start, meaning there’s hardly anything you need to upgrade save for personal preference. Between a full-metal case, great repairability, customizability with hot-swap sockets, and a solid typing sound, I don’t have any real issues with the wireless Q5 Pro or Q6 Pro (8/10, WIRED Recommends)—or anything else in the Q Pro line. These even support QMK/VIA, making remapping keys a breeze via the software.
I think the Q5 Pro’s layout is a good balance between the compactness of a tenkeyless (TKL) layout and the functionality of a traditional full-size keyboard (the Q6 Pro is the latter). It retains the number pad, arrow keys, and function row while cutting down the horizontal footprint by two keys, resulting in a layout that offers every key you'd need, with less hand movement than a full-size board. Overall, this keyboard is a fantastic option for efficiency-oriented typists who want an enjoyable typing experience and a sturdy build quality.
Linear or tactile switches (hot-swappable). Wireless (Bluetooth) or wired. Includes USB-C to USB-C cable and USB-C to USB-A adapter. Separate Mac and Windows keycaps.
- Photograph: Razer
Best Gaming Mechanical Keyboard
Razer BlackWidow V4 75%The BlackWidow V4 75% (8/10, WIRED Recommends) incorporates a lot of great innovations from the custom keyboard space into the framework of a gaming keyboard, improving almost every aspect of the average keyboard. I had a few small gripes with this keyboard’s assembly and repairability, but it’s a fantastic option for gamers who want to upgrade their typical Razer keyboard with extra features. This is a 75% layout, so it's smaller, eliminating areas like the numeric keypad typically found on a full-size keyboard.
The factory-lubed Razer Orange switches have a strong tactile bump and a satisfying typing sound, and the (expectedly) bright and flashy RGB lighting that’s typically absent in premium keyboards, along with an ultra-fast 8,000-Hz polling rate that’s perfect for fast-paced gaming. While some details like the lack of wireless connectivity and the plastic bottom case weren’t ideal, the typing experience and overall build quality more than made up for it.
Tactile switches (hot-swappable). Wired. Includes wrist rest and USB-C to USB-A cable. Windows keycaps.
- Photograph: Henri Robbins
Best Budget Mechanical Keyboard
Keychron V1 Max QMKKeychron's V1 Max has most of the benefits of the BlackWidow V4 without the extra bells and whistles to keep the price under $100. It's gasket-mounted, meaning the keyboard's plate is held into the case around the edges using strips of foam to isolate the plate from the case. This allows for some bounce and offers a quieter and more consistent typing sound across the keyboard. You also get wireless connectivity, RGB lighting, hot-swap sockets, and a great overall typing feel out of the box. Like the Q5 and Q6 Pro above, it’s fully programmable using QMK and VIA software, meaning every key can be remapped. The V1 Max only has a 1,000 Hz polling rate compared to Razer’s 8,000 Hz (how fast the keyboard sends information to the computer), but 1,000 Hz is more than enough for most fast-paced games. Its RGB is much more rudimentary, but the rest of its specs more than make up for this considering the price.
In the time I used this keyboard, I found its typing experience fantastically poppy and crisp, and all the materials are shockingly nice—solid keycaps, great switches, and a simple two-piece plastic case that’s easy to take apart. The largest trade-off is the quality of the case: The plastic isn’t super thick, and the entire keyboard easily flexes when bent. However, the gasket-mount system makes this hard to notice in regular use. More than that, a plastic case like this is lighter than metal, and any scrapes and dents it picks up will be much less obvious, making it an ideal candidate for use on the go or in an office, especially with the included wireless dongles for both USB-A and USB-C.
Linear or tactile switches (hot-swappable). Wireless (Bluetooth and 2.4 GHz with USB-C or USB-A receiver) or wired. Includes USB-C to USB-C cable and USB-C to USB-A adapter. Separate Mac and Windows keycaps.
- Photograph: Henri Robbins
Best Hall Effect Keyboard
Keychron Q1 HEKeychron’s Q1 HE (9/10, WIRED Recommends) is probably the most refined Hall effect keyboard out there. Hall effect switches use magnets to identify keypresses and are much more responsive and durable than mechanical switches. They're also adjustable—you can configure the W key to actuate with a slight press versus a full press, which can be handy for certain games. This is all available in Keychron’s in-browser Launcher software, which lets you adjust actuation points and response times, create multiple inputs at different distances, and even emulate a traditional controller joystick.
With great switches, immense customization, and Keychron’s usual high-quality gasket-mount system, I enjoyed typing on and gaming with this keyboard more than any other optical or Hall Effect keyboard I’ve used. Typing feels and sounds great, with a lower-pitched typing tone and smooth keypresses. The bottom-out feels softer than a traditional mechanical switch, but this softer typing feel can be better for longer typing sessions. Overall, it's just a really enjoyable keyboard and delivers an experience that won’t disappoint, even if the Q1 HE doesn’t do anything crazy.
Hall effect switches. Wireless (Bluetooth and 2.4 GHz) or wired. Includes USB-C to USB-C cable and USB-C to USB-A adapter. Separate Mac and Windows keycaps.
- Photograph: Henri Robbins
Best Low-Profile Mechanical Keyboard
Lofree Flow84When I first learned about the Lofree Flow, I was skeptical. I’ve tried a few low-profile mechanical keyboards and never really saw the point—they all just felt (and sounded) like glorified laptop keyboards. But the Flow is different: With Kailh's full POM low-profile switches, a gasket-mounted metal case, and an impressive build, I genuinely found myself wanting to come back to this keyboard despite a pile of traditional mechanical keyboards (both personal and review samples) sitting next to me.
While I love the typing experience and assembly, my only gripe is a small one: The LED backlighting doesn't work perfectly for the provided keycaps, since the LED is on the bottom of the switch and the text is on the top. Besides that, it’s one of the first genuinely good low-profile keyboards I’ve typed on. Typing is smooth and satisfying, and the durable build reinforces all the best qualities of these fairly unconventional switches.
Linear or tactile switches. Wireless (Bluetooth) or wired. Includes USB-C to USB-C cable. Mac and Windows keycaps.
- Photograph: HHKB
Best for Programmers
Happy Hacking Keyboard Professional Hybrid Type-SThe Happy Hacking Keyboard is a mainstay in the keyboard community: It’s portable, durable, utilitarian, and great for almost every use case imaginable. More than that, it has a slightly altered version of the traditional QWERTY layout that’s just fantastic to use. All of my personal keyboards have been reprogrammed to replicate a few different aspects of this layout: Replacing the Caps Lock key with an extra control key is something I never knew I needed, but now I can’t live without it. The HHKB also uses Topre switches, a kinda-mechanical, kinda-membrane switch using a rubber dome with a spring underneath. While there are debates around whether this is a “true” mechanical switch, I don’t think there’s any debate around how satisfying these switches are to type on: Their deep typing sound and distinct, rounded tactility have amassed a cult following over the years. The only true downsides to Topre switches are that you can’t swap them out for other switches, or easily change keycaps, due to their unique shape and assembly.
The Pro Hybrid Type-S model includes a few extra bonuses, like Bluetooth connectivity and silencing rings. It’s reprogrammable using HHKB's proprietary app, although there’s not much reason to modify the existing layout unless you want a specific macro or change to the function layer. It's worth noting that while this keyboard is expensive, it’s incredibly easy to find either the Hybrid Type-S or any other HHKB models on the used market for around half the price. I’d recommend this route if you can’t justify the high cost.
Topre switches. Wireless (Bluetooth) or wired. Mac and Windows keycaps.
- Photograph: Henri Robbins
Best Sounding Keyboard
Bakeneko 60The Bakeneko 60 is the most well-known “entry-level” custom keyboard in the mechanical keyboard hobbyist space. It sounds good, feels good, and has a mounting method I can best describe as “jarringly simple.” (Stretch a giant O-ring around the keyboard internals and press the entire assembly into the case—the internals are suspended by the friction between the O-ring and the case.) Why does something so basic work so well? How does it work so well? I have no clue, but it’s one of my favorite mounting methods in terms of both sound and feel.
While the original Bakeneko 60 is a great place to start if how a keyboard sounds is important to you (it's also reasonably priced), it’s not the only O-ring mount keyboard available. You can get different variations, each with slightly different layouts and sound signatures. I like the styling of the Parallel Sequence ($169), a wonderfully simple 65% O-ring mount board. The Ciel65 ($210) is another that's pricier but adds a brass weight to improve typing sound and add some weight. Along with this, CannonKeys offers the original Bakeneko in a 65% layout ($150), and with an internal weight ($190). However, I do think the original Bakeneko 60 is the most cost-effective option.
Just remember, with any of these, you have to source the switches, keycaps, and stabilizers yourself. But part of the beauty of an O-ring mounted board is that almost any combination of these things will at least sound acceptable, and if it doesn’t work, you can take it apart and try again without needing to turn a single screw. I’ve tried these keyboards before with Gateron Ink Blacks, Cherry MX switches, and a few others, both linear and tactile. Almost all of them worked, and chances are, there’s already a sound test online for whatever switch you’re thinking of using. Oh, and the Bakeneko 60 supports QMK and VIA, so it's easy to reprogram.
Switches and keycaps not included. Wired.
Photograph: Henri RobbinsBest Switches
Switch It UpSwitches are a huge part of a mechanical keyboard—if you already have a board, try swapping the switches if you want a fresh experience. I'm working on a guide to my favorite switches, but below are my recommendations if you want a silent, tactile, or linear switch.
- Silent Switches: One of the most frequent things friends and family ask me about is silent switches. For coworkers, roommates, family members, or partners, the constant clicking and clacking of a mechanical keyboard can be grating. There are silent linear and silent tactile switches, but I find that silent linears are more acceptable in terms of typing feel and actual silence. However, even the best silent linear switches will feel a bit off compared to a non-silent switch. The best silent switch available today is the Haimu Heartbeat ($11 for 36 switches). Once lubed, this switch is almost perfectly silent and, more importantly, manages to do it with hardly any of the “mushy” or “squishy” feeling most silenced switches have. Instead, it has a clean and slightly soft bottom-out that’s only betrayed by the lack of audible response to accompany it. In second place sits the slightly more silent Gazzew Bobagum. This switch is almost dead-silent, and while it does have the usual “mushy” bottom-out feeling of silicone, it isn’t that bad when the rest of the switch is as smooth as it is. If you’re a fairly light typist who doesn’t bottom-out keypresses, or you don’t mind a slightly mushier bottom-out, these are also great.
- Linear Switches: Linear switches are often the default choice for mechanical switches. My two favorites are from Gateron: Oil King switches ($49 for 70) and Cream Soda switches ($53 for 70). Oil Kings are one of the best linear switches available today. Out of the box, they’re smooth, sound great, and require zero modification. You don’t need to lube them, film them, swap the springs, or anything else. Just put them into a keyboard, and you’re golden. The Cream Soda switches, on the other hand, are a great mix of different switch technologies. Utilizing a long-pole stem for a more distinct bottom-out sound, proprietary Ink plastic for a smooth and deep sound, and factory lube that’s on par with hand-lubing, they feel incredibly smooth and sound great right out of the box, although they can still benefit from adding film.
- Tactile Switches: I find that a lot of people look for the wrong things when shopping for tactile switches. While ultra-tactile switches with distinct bumps are popular online, I find these kinds of switches often only feel good on their own and can be difficult to adjust to for the average person. Instead, I always advocate for something in the middle: a crisp, responsive bump that isn’t so drastic that it distracts from typing or feels uncomfortable after prolonged periods. The classics always hold up: Durock T1 ($59 for 110) switches are a great starting point, and I’ve always had a soft spot for Novelkeys' Cream Tactile ($12 for 10) switches, even if you need to break them in quite a bit compared to other switches. Drop’s Holy Pandas ($42 for 35) mostly deserve their reputation—they’re a solid, heavy tactile that feels great to type on, and I’ll always love the Boba U4T ($84 for 70) for their fantastic sound profile and great tactile bump too.
Photograph: Henri RobbinsHonorable Mentions
Other Good KeyboardsThese are keyboards I tested that are not quite good enough for the spots above or are good across the board without standout features. They don’t do things quite as well as their competition but are still good in their own right.
Wooting 60HE+ for $175: Between an archaic mounting method and long wait times for delivery, I just can’t recommend the 60HE over Keychron’s Q1 HE. While I still think it’s a fantastic Hall effect keyboard, it just doesn’t have the same polish and refinement as Keychron’s offering. The 60HE still uses a tray-mount system that, while modular, doesn’t sound or feel great to type on. Along with that, the plastic case is disappointing at the price; it was once an acceptable trade-off for customizable Hall effect switches, but Keychron offers a full-metal, gasket-mounted keyboard for around $50 more, and I think the improvements are worth the money unless you prefer a 60% layout or want the ability to use the 60HE’s wide range of aftermarket cases.
Cherry KC 200 MX for $90: The KC 200 MX is an incredibly simple and barebones keyboard that doesn’t add anything new, or remove anything necessary. It’s a full-size mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX2A switches, a metal plate, and hardly anything else. It’s not customizable, it’s not programmable, but I can say for sure that it will be durable, reliable, and at least somewhat enjoyable to type on for years to come.
Photograph: Henri Robbins; Getty ImagesAvoid These Keyboards
You Can Do BetterNot every keyboard will be a winner. Here are a few I don't think are worth the price.
HiGround Opal Base 65 for $120: In my testing (5/10, WIRED Review), I found the Opal Base 65 fell behind the competition in almost every way. With a tray-mount assembly, clunky software, and a single-piece plastic case, I just can’t find any reason to pick this keyboard over anything else.
KSI Wombat Willow for $145: I wanted to like this keyboard, as it has everything I should like: a unique layout, a metal case, PBT keycaps, and Gateron switches. But it just doesn’t work that well. The typing sounds hollow and rattly, the typing angles are either entirely flat or almost flat, and for some reason, every time I enable Caps Lock, it automatically types “20 02 00” (and after performing a factory reset, it types “01 06 07” instead). I couldn’t find any way to fix this using KSI’s WB Pouch software. However, it does do some clever things: The number pad is placed so that the main keyboard’s Enter key can be pressed with your thumb during use, and the two rows of Function keys consolidate a lot of keys vertically to save on horizontal space. I wish the assembly and polish matched up to this keyboard’s great vision, because the idea itself is fantastic.
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