The thing about Paris, of course, is that everyone has their places, and the beauty of it is that you often find a new one each time you visit. So take this issue as a guide—eat and shop and stay at the places the T&C mafia recommends, and then add your own. Here's my take: Before I leave, I book Laurent or Antony at Just Ask, the best drivers and fixers in teh city. They have saved us during multiple fashion weeks, set us up with excellent guides for the Louvre, and figured out how to do Normandy in one day.
I make sure there's a room for me on the seventh floor of the Plaza Athénée, my home away from home, and that I have a morning for breakfast there (when I devour that iconic bread basket) and a night for dinner at Le Relais (where I attack Jean Imbert's delicious chicken and mashed potatoes). I always book a dinner at Chez Georges on Rue du Mail, where I have the frisée salad and the steak frites—and the baba au rhum. I make sure to have lunch or dinner at Le Voltaire and a pizza at Gigi.
And on most visits, by the end of the trip, when I'm feeling a bit homesick, I have le burger and le martini at Ralph's (that courtyard in good weather!). This month I'll make a point of trying a new Greek place called Spiti Sou that everyone keeps telling me about. And I'll make sure to tell you all about it. Oh, and there's more. —Stellene Volandes
So, Where Do You Stay in Paris?
Anyone who has been to Paris enough has a favorite hotel. And, if you ask, they will gladly—and passionately—tell you why they never stay anywhere else. Maybe they love it because it takes them back to the first time they came to Paris with their fabulous grandmother. Maybe they love it because no one else really knows about it (well, until now—sorry!). Maybe it's because it makes them feel right at home—or transports them to another world. Maybe it's simply because it has the best hotel bar that makes the best martinis, or because their room has the best views of the Eiffel Tower (no judgement!). Below, we asked a few of our most discerning friends to defend their choices. HERE ARE THE NOMINATIONS
"It's all about walking around the city and getting lost. That's the thing to do in Paris: just wander with no agenda. You can stumble into so many places and still make incredible discoveries here." —Darren Star
So, Where Do You Eat in Paris?
Start with the classics.
Then book one of these hot new tables.
So, Where Do You Find the Best Art in Paris?
The museums, of course.
But don't skip the performing arts!
So, Where Do You Shop in Paris?
First, go back to 1924.
Then plan the perfect Birkin day.
So, Where Do You Facial in Paris?
So, Where Do You Ride in Paris?
The Bourgeoisie and the Rebel
Love. Sex. Liberation. In the Paris demimonde, the secrets felt personal. —Aatish Taseer
I discovered Paris in my twenties through my Indian godmother, an ex-model who had been a muse of Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980s. Kirat (or qui ne rate rien, as she was known locally: “she who misses nothing”) was exhaustingly social. Her circle of friends consisted of a deposed Georgian prince, a French countess, a Portuguese heiress, and a Charlusian character of ill repute (I’ll call him Umero). It was the last of these who, after he had given up trying to seduce me in the health club of the Ritz, let me into a dark Parisian secret: a BDSM dungeon called Transfert, within spitting distance of Place Vendôme.
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The T&C Edit
"I try to pay a visit to Deyrolle, the iconic cabinet of curiosities on the Left Bank, every time I'm in town. It never disappoints." —Roxanne Adamiyatt, deputy digital lifestyle director
"If you need a break from all the bread, cheese, and pastries, pop into Wild & The Moon for delicious heathy fare." —MaryKate Boylan, senior fashion editor
"When you visit the Musée d'Orsay (and you must), go first thing in the morning, start on the top floor, and work your way down. Smaller crowds, I promise. —Emily Burack, senior news editor
"To understand why French men are so effortlessly stylish in business attire, visit the Musée de l'Armée at Les Invalides to see the impressive collection of military finery." —Linda Crowley, research chief
"Just take in the sights and walk where your heart desires. The secrets will come to you." —Sophie Dweck, associate shopping editor
"Paris in January. No one thinks of going, but the cafés have heat lamps and the sky is a gorgeous gray that really suits the architecture." —Klara Glowczewska, executive travel editor
"The activated charcoal baguette from Boulangerie Utopie is delicious (really) and, more important, you can pretend it's healthy!" —Leena Kim, editor
"Beauty is everywhere in Paris, but make sure to check out the elegant, witty, and quirky typography of the signage when walking around the city." —Chiun Lee, deputy design director
"Don't go out to dinner on January 1. Half the staff don't show up, and the ones who do are hung over." —James Lochart, copy chief
"For art appreciation sans crowds, I love the tucked-away Musée de la Vie Romantique, which also has a delightful garden café." —April Long, beauty director
"Listen to "Rue St. Vincent" by Yves Montand and go to the actual Rue Saint-Vincent at sunset." —Isiah Magsino, style news editor
"Don't tell anyone, but you can actually get a decent martini at Bar 228 at Le Meurice. The people watching in that beautifully lit room ain't half bad either." —Erik Maza, executive style director
"Bruno Verjus worked as a journalist and graduated from medical school before deciding that what he really wanted to do was cook. The result was the restaurant Table-Bruno Verjus. Thank god he finally settled on a career." —Jay McInerney, T&C wine critic
"Café Berry is my go-to for a delicious breakfast in Paris before the city wakes up." —Hannah Morrolf, fashion assistant
"Maison de Victor Hugo has a quiet elegance to it and amazing views of the Place des Vosges." —Nelida Mortensen, senior visual editor
"Paris is the crème de la crème for shopping. On my most recent trip I came upon Maison Caillau, which is a treasure trove of chic hair barrettes." —Dania Lucero Ortiz, fashion & accessories director
"The best bakery in Paris is always the closest one. However, I do make it my business to visit Rose Bakery on Rue des Martyrs whenever possible." —Adam Rathe, deputy features director
This story appears in the Summer 2024 issue of Town & Country. SUBSCRIBE NOW
