The best places to listen to fado in Lisbon

Tucked away behind another building and right next to a car dealership, it might seem like an unlikely place to enjoy a solemn fado experience – but looks can be deceiving. Clube Lisboa Amigos do Fado is both a music school and a fado house where hundreds of fado singers have honed their voices. The club has hosted performances by artists like Amália Rodrigues, Alfredo Marceneiro, Mariza, and Sara Correia, the latter a native of Chelas. To accompany the music, they serve snacks such as caldo verde (green broth) and grilled chouriço (sausage). 

In 1955, Júlio and Maria José de Barros Evangelista opened A Severa. Today, the fourth generation of the family is still at the helm of the business, which has seen artists such as Lina Santos, Natalino de Jesus, and Nadine grace its stage. Alongside the fado, A Severa restaurant focuses on traditional cuisine, served by candlelight whilst the artists perform.

Founded in 1947 by the fado singer Lucília do Carmo (mother of legendary Portuguese fado singer Carlos do Carmo), Faia is a historic fado house in Bairro Alto where some of the genre’s greatest names have performed, from Alfredo Marceneiro to Camané. Today, Lenita Gentil is the star of a lineup that includes António Rocha, Sara Correia, Maura Airez, and Beatriz Felício.

Named after Francisco ‘Chico’ Gonçalves (who still makes regular appearances here, this tasca (or tavern) has become a mecca for fado vadio (amateur fado). It has also played host to a number of international cultural figures, from Marisa to the late Anthony Bourdain. Opened in 1996 in a former olive and sausage warehouse, the tasca has established itself as a place for fado lovers and amateurs alike, as well as a meeting point for professional musicians after concerts. The nights usually end late, but on a high note. Meanwhile, Chico has also opened a tasca in Alfama, on Rua dos Remédios.

Fado vadio (amateur fado) reigns at Tasca do Jaime, which is packed out all weekend long with regulars enjoying codfish cakes, and glasses of red wine. When the singing starts at 4.00pm, drink prices go up, but it’s to pay the artists, so you can’t hold it against them. You won’t hear famous singers in this tavern in Graça, but you will experience the true essence of fado. Every week, the faithful return to sing it until their voices ache. Not in the neighbourhood? There’s another Tasca do Jaime in Alfama.

When it first opened on Rua dos Remédios in Alfama, this place was named Bela – Wines and Snacks, serving up long nights of wine, fado, poetry, and lively gatherings and establishing itself as a meeting spot for people from different generations. Times changed, and Bela adapted its business, transforming into a fado house. Those wanting to hear fado can come from Wednesday to Sunday and enjoy a codfish dinner whilst listening. Alternatively, from 10.30pm, you can try some pataniscas (cod fritters) or peixinhos da horta (vegetable fritters) – just make sure to keep quiet and go with the flow.

This is Argentina Santos’s joint: a veteran of traditional fado, he has been here since the 1950s and even once worked as a cook. The menu, as expected, features Portuguese cuisine – steaks, some seafood, codfish dishes, and more – and the fado performances highlight singers like Maria Amélia Proença and Maria de Fátima.

If you’ve never been to this famous little fado house in Alfama (complete with beautiful traditional tilework), you don’t know what you’re missing. Mesa de Frades regularly features performances by Rodrigo Rebelo de Andrade, Ana Sofia Varela, Teresinha Landeiro, or João Braga and performances are always accompanied by traditional Portuguese cuisine.

Clube de Fado was once a stable and olive oil warehouse, but now it’s a fado house with a line-up of artists featuring big names like Cristina Madeira, Carlos Leitão, and Maria Ana Bobone night after night. The menu is comprised of codfish, steaks, octopus served with potatoes, and other Portuguese delicacies.

Senhor Vinho, which was opened Maria da Fé in 1975, is a great reason to visit the Lapa neighbourhood. Ever find yourself struggling to find a kitchen that’s still open open for service at 12.30am? Next time, try Senhor Vinho . There’s excellent Portuguese food and a luxury line-up featuring names like Aldina Duarte and Francisco Salvação Barreto. Dinner is €65 per person.