I’m lying on a yacht with a pink cocktail in one hand and a canapé in the other, watching the sun go down over the Aegen sea: a typical end to a typical day at the One&Only Aesthesis. As I gaze across the sandy stretch known as the Athens Riviera, it’s hard to believe this coastal hideaway in Glyfada is just a 30-minute minute drive from the capital. In the Sixties and Seventies, the beach club that stood here, Asteria (coming from the Greek word for “stars”), was a playground for movie stars and musicians. Back then, I might have spotted Brigitte Bardot or Frank Sinatra lounging around on these shores. Today, the resort — in a secluded bay surrounded by trees — is popular with celebrities such as Kylie Minogue and Liam Hemsworth, both of whom, like me, are here for the hotel’s official launch party.
Thanks to local laws that meant the architects had to follow the original footprint of the beach club, One&Only’s buildings lie precisely where Asteria’s once were. From my yacht in the bay, I can see the hotel’s 127 low-slung bungalows and villas strung along and around the 40m of private beach. Some are right on the waterfront; others blend into the surrounding 50 acres of forest: all have been redesigned by architects from AUDO, A6Architects and K-Studio, and the interior design studio Muza Lab to create a look that’s part old-school Hollywood glamour, part coastal Greek chic.
As I explore the leafy grounds later, it feels as if I’ve entered a peaceful wellness retreat. Beyond gardens of olive trees and a monumental fountain lies the dramatic main building, its curved shape and panoramic windows making it look like a spaceship that’s landed in the middle of the forest. With its minimalist, mid-century lines, coastal colour palette, white marble and hints of timber, it has a subtle, soothing feel, as does my room, with its two stylish, plant-filled alfresco areas, floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors and plunge pool with sea views. In fact, I have so much outdoor space just steps from my king bed that there seems little need to visit the resort’s beach.
Inside the room, everything is super-sized, from the stone bathtub with views across the plunge pool to the walk-in wardrobe and television with a booming speaker under it. The decor feels snug, partly because of the hues and materials used: the wall above the cushiony white sofa is covered with stone, while the other is panelled with light wood and creamy fabric.
Although my room is spacious, it’s nothing like Villa One, which sleeps five and costs £39,750 in peak season. On our first night, we all head there to eat grilled octopus and dance to a set by the British model and DJ Zara Martin. In fact, it’s so big it could be a standalone luxury hotel, complete with beach access, and a giant pool and Jacuzzi.
Advertisement
One afternoon, I watch Kylie Minogue, Kim Cattrall, Liam Hemsworth, Luke Evans and Joe Jonas all bop along to a DJ set by Mike Deleasa at a pool party hosted by Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of the luxury French fashion brand Balmain. Bottles of Kylie Minogue’s prosecco and rosé are on ice, along with seemingly endless magnums of Whispering Angel rosé and Veuve Clicquot.
In charge of the resort’s food are Paco Morales and Ettore Botrini, who have both earned Michelin stars. In the casual and outdoorsy-feel Ora restaurant, Botrini does an Italian twist on Greek cuisine, with dishes such as lobster, oysters, sea bass sashimi and beetroot gravlax for brunch, accompanied by a DJ playing house music for the well-dressed guests catching rays by the pool, mosaiced by Balmain, a few steps away.
A recent opening for Manko is the hotel’s buzzy Peruvian restaurant, right on the waterfront. Stepping through its white arches one evening, the first thing I notice is its internal “beach”, with sofas and tables for toes-in-the-sand cocktails, and two shallow pools either side. On its opening night, the atmosphere is lively and loud, with knockout dishes by the head chef Juan David Ocampo including a red prawn, stone crab and sea urchin ceviche, and a grilled white fish with a beurre blanc sauce.
Having overindulged and fried my skin, I head to the spa: the first in Greece by the luxury French beauty brand Guerlain. The spa feels luscious, serene and light. A large pool is surrounded by wildflowers, grass and olive trees. High-end facilities include a cryotherapy chamber, a gym filled with Technogym machines, and a “glamour studio” for guests to get their hair, make-up and nails done. There are also courts to play padel and tennis, studios in which to be coached by a personal trainer, and a pergola for sunset yoga and Pilates classes.
There is also a large Balmain boutique to peruse and a beautiful chapel for those inspired to get hitched. For younger guests there are babysitters and a KidsOnly club, with activities from junior Olympics and trips around the hotel’s insectarium to arts and crafts classes.
Advertisement
While children were being kept busy, grown-up guests didn’t need to lift a finger. Anything I wanted, from mosquito repellent to alcohol, was delivered to my room, and was just a WhatsApp message to the concierge team away. The friendly staff even rushed out to hold sun umbrellas over my head in the scorching heat. I left feeling relaxed and truly spoilt — if a few kilos heavier.
Details Doubles from £1,080, oneandonlyresorts.com
