Search Results (22)

Sandy barrier systems are highly dynamic, with the most significant natural morphological changes to these systems occurring during high-energy storm conditions. These systems provide a range of economic and ecosystem benefits and protect inland areas from flooding and storm impacts, but the persistence of many coastal barriers is threatened by storms and sea-level rise (SLR). This study employed observations and modeling to examine recent and potential future influences of storms on a sandy coastal barrier system in Nauset Beach, MA. Drone-derived imagery and digital elevation models (DEMs) of the study area collected throughout the 2023–2024 winter revealed significant alongshore variability in the geomorphic response to storms. Severe, highly localized erosion (i.e., an erosional “hotspot”) occurred immediately south of the Nauset Bay spit as the result of a group of storms in December and January. Modeling results demonstrated that the location of the hotspot was largely controlled by the location of a break in a nearshore sandbar system, which induced larger waves and stronger currents that affected the foreshore, backshore and dune. Additionally, model simulations of the December and January storms assuming 0.3 m (1 ft) of SLR showed the system to be relatively resistant to major geomorphic changes in response to an isolated storm event, but more susceptible to significant overwash and breaching in response to consecutive storms. This research suggests that both very strong isolated storm events and sequential moderate storms pose an enhanced risk of major overwash, breaching, and possibly inlet formation today and into the future, raising concern for adjacent communities and resource managers. Full article

Constant changes occur in coastal areas over different timescales, requiring observation and modeling. Specifically, modeling morphological changes resulting from short-term events, such as storms, is of great importance in coastal management. Parameter calibration is necessary to achieve more accurate simulations of process-based models that focus on specific locations and event characteristics. In this study, the XBeach depth-averaged model was adopted to simulate subaerial data pre- and post-storms, and overwash phenomena were observed using the data acquired through unmanned aerial vehicles. The parameters used for the model calibration included those proposed in previous studies. However, an emphasis was placed on calibrating the parameters related to sediment transport that were directly associated with overwash and deposition. Specifically, the parameters corresponding to the waveform parameters, wave skewness, and wave asymmetry were either integrated or separated to enable an adequate representation of the deposition resulting from overwash events. The performance and sensitivity of the model to changes in volume were assessed. Overall, the waveform parameters exhibit significant sensitivity to volume changes, forming the basis for calibrating the deposition effects caused by overwashing. These results are expected to assist in the more effective selection and calibration of parameters for simulating sediment deposition due to overwash events. Full article

This project follows a tradition of survey work undertaken to appraise physical and biological damage in the aftermath of hurricane-strength winds and waves at a given locality where conditions were well documented prior to the arrival of a particular storm. The locality is the 12 m limestone terrace at Arroyo Blanco on the eastern shores of Isla del Carmen in Baja California Sur, Mexico. A study undertaken in February 2018 established that the surface of the terrace is covered by a coastal boulder deposit that features large slabs of limestone pealed from the outer edge by strong surf attributed to storms of hurricane intensity but unknown date. The largest slabs tend to be rectilinear in shape vulnerable to dislodgement along horizonal bedding planes and weaknesses in vertical joints. These blocks are sufficiently large and weigh enough that movement by humans without necessary mechanical equipment would be impossible. Hurricane Kay, rated as a Category 2 storm, struck the island on 8 September 2022 and an effort was made to visit the area for reconnaissance and detailed survey work soon afterwards. Although a Category 2 storm lacked the energy to remobilize the largest limestone slabs on the terrace, it was found that the storm was sufficient to disturb the adjacent seabed and redeposit as many as 44 sea fans onto the terrace by overwash; the sea fans belonged to the species Pacifigorgia adamsi. Moreover, a species of land plant common to the limestone terrace is the Gulf Star Violet (Stenotis mucronate); it suffered significant desiccation and death due to saltwater exposure. The occurrence of large potholes on the limestone terrace represents a style of physical erosion previously undocumented at the locality and rarely seen elsewhere on rocky shores. Full article

This work considers a database of pre-storm morphological factors and documented impacts along a coastal roadway. Impacts from seven storms, including sand overwash and pavement damage, were documented via aerial photography. Pre-storm topography was examined to parameterize the pre-storm morphological factors likely to control whether stormwater levels and waves impact the road. Two machine learning techniques, K-nearest neighbors (KNN) and ensemble of decision trees (EDT), were employed to identify the most critical pre-storm morphological factors in determining the road vulnerability, expressed as a binary variable to impact storms. Pre-processing analysis was conducted with a correlation analysis of the predictors’ data set and feature selection subroutine for the KNN classifier. The EDTs were built directly from the data set, and feature importance estimates were reported for all storm events. Both classifiers report the distances from roadway edge-of-pavement to the dune toe and ocean as the most important predictors of most storms. For storms approaching from the bayside, the width of the barrier island was the second most important factor. Other factors of importance included elevation of the dune toe, distance from the edge of pavement to the ocean shoreline, shoreline orientation (relative to predominant wave angle), and beach slope. Compared to previously reported optimization techniques, both machine learning methods improved using pre-storm morphological data to classify highway vulnerability based on storm impacts. Full article

This contribution aims to explore the role of oceanographic parameters on the damage caused by storms at the eastern Cantabrian coast (1996–2016). All wave storms affecting the study area were characterized in terms of several oceanographic parameters; among them, damaging storms (responsible for direct and tangible loss) were identified. Cross-referencing both databases makes it possible to find some thresholds that explain storm conditions associated with property damage. Particularly relevant are those responsible for significant and widespread damage: maximum significant offshore wave height >6.5 m, maximum total water level >6 m, SPI > 1700 m²h, and a storm duration >48 h. These values are exceptionally high, mostly exceeding the 95th percentile. A comparison has been made with other thresholds described in the literature. The concurrence of high wave height and high tidal level is crucial as the greatest damage is caused by the combination of wave impact and over-wash, so a long duration of the storm is necessary to coincide with high tide. An empirical Intensity-Duration threshold has also been obtained with the following function I = 248.7 D^−0.45. Damage can occur with moderate storms, but with severe effects only with exceptional wave and sea-level values, during long-lasting storms. Full article

Sand spits are common in wave-dominated environments; with enough sand supply, they can evolve to affect circulation and navigation in channels or inlets. The focus of this paper is on the navigation channel of the Sisal Port, located on the northwestern Yucatan Peninsula (YP) coast, where a sand spit grew and was monitored from its formation (June 2018) until navigation was practically blocked (November 2018). The YP coast is characterized as being microtidal, with significant wave heights ranging from 0.1 to 0.4 m (April to September), and in the presence of high energy events (cold fronts and storms), waves can reach heights of up to 2.5 m offshore at 10 m depth (October to February). Prior to the beginning of UAV surveys, we used photos (June–July 2018) from a stationary field camera and hydrodynamic data from models (WaveWatch III for waves and MARV software for tidal levels) to generate a qualitative description of the sand spit in the channel. Combining products from UAVs flights (DEMs) and hydrodynamic measurements (wave energy flux), we characterized the behavior and response of the sand spit, from its formation near the jetty head, through its consolidation in October 2018, to when a cold front with H_S ∼2.5 m breached it in mid-November. The results show that spit formation takes place during calm conditions (e.g., periods dominated by sea breezes), and depending on the energy threshold of high energetic events, this new spit will consolidate or be breached. Migration of the spit is related to overwash events and changes in wave direction. The presented methodology provides a well-rounded tool for characterizing the morphological behavior of spits on a shallow coast, which can be useful for improving coastal management. Full article

Over short periods of time, extreme storms can significantly alter barrier island morphology, increasing the vulnerability of coastal habitats and communities relative to future storms. These impacts are complex and the result of interactions between oceanographic conditions and the geomorphic, geological, and ecological characteristics of the island. A 2D XBeach model was developed and compared to observations in order to study these interactions along an undeveloped barrier island near the landfall of Hurricane Florence in 2018. Beachface water levels during the storm were obtained from two cross-shore arrays of pressure sensors for comparison to model hydrodynamics. Aerial drone imagery was used to derive pre-storm and post-storm elevation data in order to quantify spatially varying erosion and overwash. Sediment grain size was measured in multiple locations, and we estimated spatially varying friction by using Sentinel-2 satellite imagery. The high spatial and temporal resolution of satellite imagery provided an efficient method for incorporating pre-storm spatially varying land cover. While previous studies have focused on the use of spatially varying friction, we found that the utilization of local median grain sizes and full directional wave spectra was critical to reproducing observed overwash extent. Full article

This paper presents and validates a novel root model which accounts for the effect of belowground biomass on dune erosion volumes in XBeach, based on a small-scale wave flume experiment that was translated to a larger scale. A 1D-XBeach model was calibrated by using control runs considering a dune without vegetation. Despite calibration, a general model–data mismatch was observed in terms of overestimated erosion volumes around the waterline. Furthermore, the prediction of overwash had to be induced by increasing the maximum nearshore wave height within the XBeach simulation. Subsequently, applying the root model resulted in a good agreement with the belowground biomass cases, and the consideration of spatially varying rooting depths further improved the results. Predictions of the root model while using locally increased friction coefficients were in line with the aboveground and belowground biomass cases. However, the effect of the root model on the erosion predictions varied among the hydrodynamic conditions, so further improvements are required. Therefore, future research should focus on quantifying the effects of land-based biomass and individual plant characteristics, such as root density, on dune erodibility at large scales, along with their influences on the temporal evolution of dune scarping and avalanching. Full article

Beaches responses to storms, as well as their potential adaptation to the foreseeable sea level rise (SLR), were investigated along three beaches in a coastal tract in western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea). The grain size of the sediments, the beach profile variability and the wave climate were analyzed in order to relate morphological changes, geological inheritances and waves forcing. Multibeam, single-beam and lidar data were used to characterize the inner shelf morphologies and to reproduce the flooding due to the SLR. The studied beaches experienced major changes when consecutive storms, rather than singles ones, occurred along the coastline. The sediment availability, the grain size and the geomorphological structure of the beaches were the most important factors influencing the beach response. On the sediment-deprived coarse beaches the headlands favor the beach rotation, and the gravel barrier morphology can increase the resistance against storms. On the sediment-abundant beaches, the cross-shore sediment transport towards a submerged area leads to a lowering in the subaerial beach level and a contemporaneous shoreline retreat in response to storms. A very limited ingression of the sea is related to the SLR. This process may affect (i) the gravel barrier, promoting a roll over due to the increase in overwash; (ii) the embayed beach increasing its degree of embayment as headlands become more prominent, and (iii) the sediment-abundant beach with an erosion of the whole subaerial beach during storms, which can also involve the foredune area. Full article

Gravel barriers represent physiographic, hydrographic, sedimentary, and ecological boundaries between inshore and open marine offshore environments, where they provide numerous important functions. The morphosedimentary features of gravel barriers (e.g., steep, energy reflective form) have led to their characterization as effective coastal defense features during extreme hydrodynamic conditions. Consequently, gravel barriers have often been intensively managed to enhance coastal defense functions. The Blakeney Point Barrier System (BPBS), U.K., is one such example, which offers the opportunity to investigate the impact of alternative management regimes under extreme hydrodynamic conditions. The BPBS was actively re-profiled along its eastern section from the 1950s to the winter of 2005, whilst undergoing no active intervention along its western section. Combining an analysis of remotely sensed elevation datasets with numerical storm surge modeling, this paper finds that interventionist management introduces systemic differences in barrier morphological characteristics. Overly steepened barrier sections experience greater wave run-up extents during storm surge conditions, leading to more extreme morphological changes and landward barrier retreat. Furthermore, while high, steep barriers can be highly effective at preventing landward flooding, in cases where overwashing does occur, the resultant landward overtopping volume is typically higher than would be the case for a relatively lower crested barrier with a lower angled seaward slope. There is a growing preference within coastal risk management for less interventionist management regimes, incorporating natural processes. However, restoring natural processes does not immediately or inevitably result in a reduction in coastal risk. This paper contributes practical insights regarding the time taken for a previously managed barrier to relax to a more natural state, intermediary morphological states, and associated landward water flows during extreme events, all of which should be considered if gravel barriers are to be usefully integrated into broader risk management strategies. Full article

Gravel beaches and barriers form a valuable natural protection for many shorelines. The paper presents a numerical modelling study of gravel barrier beach response to storm wave conditions. The XBeach non-hydrostatic model was set up in 1D mode to investigate barrier volume change and overwash under a wide range of unimodal and bimodal storm conditions and barrier cross sections. The numerical model was validated against conditions at Hurst Castle Spit, UK. The validated model is used to simulate the response of a range of gravel barrier cross sections under a wide selection of statistically significant storm wave and water level scenarios thus simulating an ensemble of barrier volume change and overwash. This ensemble of results was used to develop a simple parametric model for estimating barrier volume change during a given storm and water level condition under unimodal storm conditions. Numerical simulations of barrier response to bimodal storm conditions, which are a common occurrence in many parts of the UK were also investigated. It was found that barrier volume change and overwash from bimodal storms will be higher than that from unimodal storms if the swell percentage in the bimodal spectrum is greater than 40%. The model is demonstrated as providing a useful tool for estimating barrier volume change, a commonly used measure used in gravel barrier beach management. Full article

The effect of waves on ice sheet is critical in the marginal ice zone (MIZ). Waves break large sea ice into small pieces and cause them to collide with each other. Simultaneously, the interaction between sea ice and waves attenuates these waves. In this study, a numerical research is conducted based on a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) method to investigate the response of single ice floe to wave action. The obtained results demonstrate that the sea ice has a violent six degree of freedom (6DoF) motion in waves. Ice floes with different sizes, thicknesses, and shapes exhibit different 6DoF motions under the action of waves. The heave and surge response amplitude operator (RAO) of the sea ice are related to wavelength. Furthermore, the overwash phenomenon can be observed in the simulation. The obtained results are compared with the model test in the towing tank based on artificial ice, and they agree well with test results. Full article

The motion of a flexible elastic plate under wave action is simulated, and the well–known phenomena of overwash is investigated. The fluid motion is modelled by smoothed particle hydrodynamics, a mesh-free solution method which, while computationally demanding, is flexible and able to simulate complex fluid flows. The freely floating plate is modelled using linear thin plate elasticity plus the nonlinear rigid body motions. This assumption limits the elastic plate motion to be small but is valid for many cases both in geophysics and in the laboratory. The principal conclusion is that the inclusion of flexural motion causes significantly less overwash than that which occurs for a rigid plate. Full article

This paper provides a sensitivity analysis around how characterizing sandy, intertidal foreshore evolution in XBeach-X impacts on wave runup and morphological change of a vulnerable, composite gravel beach. The study is motivated by a need for confidence in storm-impact modeling outputs to inform coastal management policy for composite beaches worldwide. First, the model is run with the sandy settings applied to capture changes in the intertidal foreshore, with the gravel barrier assigned as a non-erodible surface. Model runs were then repeated with the gravel settings applied to obtain wave runup and erosion of the barrier crest, updating the intertidal foreshore from the previous model outputs every 5, 10 and 15 min, and comparing this with a temporally static foreshore. Results show that the scenario with no foreshore evolution led to the highest wave runup and barrier erosion. The applied foreshore evolution setting update is shown to be a large control on the distribution of freeboard values indicative of overwash hazard and barrier erosion by causing an increase (with 5 min foreshore updates applied) or a decrease (with no applied foreshore updating) in the Iribarren number. Therefore, the sandy, intertidal component should not be neglected in gravel barrier modeling applications given the risk of over- or under-predicting the wave runup and barrier erosion. Full article

Intertidal bars are naturally occurring morphological features along the waterline of sandy beaches. Present quantitative knowledge on intertidal bar behavior is limited, due to the scarcity of data resources and the limitations of traditional survey techniques. To investigate and quantify the cross-shore morphologic behavior of intertidal bars, hourly terrestrial laser scans of Kijkduin beach (The Netherlands) are used and a conceptual evolution intertidal bar model is constructed. In a six-week period in January and February 2017, a pronounced intertidal bar formed at Kijkduin beach and migrated onshore during mild wave conditions and eroded again during storm conditions. The observed maximum shoreward migration was 30 m horizontally with a maximum growth of about 1 m in the vertical direction. Onshore sediment transport fluxes peaked around 2 m³ per m width per day. In the conceptual model proposed here, run-up and overwash processes are dominant for shoreward growth and migration of the bar and submersion processes are responsible for bar destruction. Full article