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Oslo is an open-air capital with pretty beaches and parks, 19th-century architecture and long classical vistas. The city boasts terrific art museums, fine opera and great fish restaurants. It is also only a few minutes drive from the mountains, where you can hike in summer and ski in winter.
Where to stay in Oslo
GJESTEHUSET LOVISENBERG
Lovisenberggaten 15a, Oslo (00 47 22 358300; gjestehuset.diahuset.no). This former 19th-century building was the home of Lutheran deaconesses and retains much of its heritage, including two chapels. Situated a short taxi ride from the city centre, the Gjestehuset Lovisenberg has a peaceful, meditative feel. The 32 rooms have crocheted bedspreads and are furnished with antiques and Protestant restraint. ££
GRAND HOTEL
Karl Johans Gate 31, Oslo (00 47 23 212000; www.grand.no). With acres of marble, Murano chandeliers and a palm court, this is the grand dame of Oslo hotels. Its guests have included Norwegian royalty and Nobel Laureates. 290 traditionally decorated rooms and suites include a dedicated 'Ladies' Floor'. The Artesia Spa, with its birch-tree trunks, chromatherapy pool and rooftop sun terrace is stunningly luxurious. Be sure to get a roof with a view: 54 of the rooms look onto the backs of other buildings. £££
GRIMS GRENKA
Kongens Gate 5, Oslo (00 47 23 107200; www.grimsgrenka.no). A designer hotel populated by a chic thirtysomething crowd. The decor has a minimalist, nightclub feel and the 42 sleek rooms and 24 suites have either a 'summer' or 'winter' accent to them. The rooftop bar with views of the harbour is a great place to lounge on summer days. £££
HOTEL CONTINENTAL
Stortingsgaten 24/26, Oslo (00 47 22 824000; www.hotel-continental.com). Opposite the National Theatre, near an airport-express station, the Hotel Intercontinental has an intimate feel despite its 155 rooms. There's a tiny gym but no spa or pool, though guests can jog in the Royal Palace Park nearby. Munch paintings hang in the bar and the Theatercaféen serves delicious open sandwiches. £££
Where to eat out in Oslo
ENGEBRET Bankplassen 1, Oslo (00 47 22 822 525; www.engebret-cafe.no). Said to be Oslo's oldest café. GRAND CAFE Grand Hotel, Karl Johans Gate 31, Oslo (00 47 23 212000; www.grand.no). Edvard Munch and his Bohemian friends used to favour this café, which is located in the Grand Hotel (see Where to Stay). In the words of his diary, 'We used to have a few drinks after breakfast to sober up. Later we'd drink to get back into a stupor'. THEATRECAFEEN Hotel Continental, Stortingsgaten 24/26, Oslo (00 47 22 824000; www.theatercafeen.no). Popular Viennese style café at Hotel Continental (see Where to Stay), a hang-out for Oslo's intelligentsia.
Things to do in Oslo
BEACH TRIPS
In the summer (July and August), when the weather gets hot, hire a car and escape to the fjord beside the capital, which offers beaches, natural marinas and islands, or take yourself north towards Norway's inland wilderness of pine forests and secluded lakes.
SKIING
In the winter, you can reach the nearest ski slopes by underground. Holmenkollen, one of the most famous ski jumps in the world, hosts a number of events through the season. Visit the Holmenkollen Restaurant (00 47 22 139 200; www.holmenkollen-restaurant.oslo.no), which offers magnificent views of the city and the fjord.
How to get to Oslo
AIRPORT The airport is at Gardermoen (www.osl.no), located 47 km north of Oslo. AIRLINES FROM THE UK SAS (www.flysas.com) flies to Oslo as does Norwegian (www.norwegian.no) and British Airways (www.britishairways.com).