How to spend three days in the South of France (after a destination wedding)

The word is out. Along with the perennial allure of the South of France – dazzling light, turquoise sea, palm-fringed beaches and sun-drenched vines – there’s a real sense of something new in the balmy blue air. Call it a Riviera-style revival. Whether it’s the resurrection of century-old landmarks-turned-night spots or the dynamic reinvention of Provençal cuisine by young chefs, there’s lots to see, do and taste, not to mention a plethora of must-buy indulgences. Pop-up designer beach clubs continue to dress up the sandy stretch of Pampelonne while new St Tropez boutiques (expect nearly 300 shops in the 15-kilometre-square village) are opening all over town. Here’s how to spend three days navigating through the coastal towns without missing the best places to visit.

Day one: Nice

Morning

Begin your day with breakfast in Nice – France’s second-largest tourist destination after Paris – at the buzzing outdoor Cours Saleya Market behind the seafront, lined with cafés. You’ll find a dizzying array of stalls piled high with fruit, vegetables, olives, plus organic bread and tartes aux citron at the Mitron Bakery stand; at the far end, the flower market sells every local bloom under the Riviera sun. Go native and stand in line for socca, the perfect late-morning Niçois snack – a big paper-thin pancake made with chickpea flour and olive oil sprinkled with black pepper. While you’re at the marketplace, take a peek at the latest exhibition at the photography museum, Musée de la Photographie Charles Nègre, then wander through the labyrinthic narrow streets of Vieux Nice, chock-a-block with galleries, boutiques and churches. Don’t miss the much-revered jewel box Eglise de l’Annonciation, known as Sainte Rita, named after the city’s patron saint of lost and impossible causes, the Eglise the Saint-Jacques-Le-Majeur, the first marble and stucco baroque church in Nice (with a quirky secret courtyard patio evening bar, Le Bethel, open on weekends), and on the lively Place Rossetti, the impressive Cathédrale Saint Réparate. If you’re ready for a hit of caffeine or a homemade matcha affogato, head to the newly opened Frisson coffee shop. For lunch, walk back to the Promenade des Anglais and feast on seafood at the waterside Les Bains du Castel.

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon in the heights of Cimiez, Nice’s treasure trove of Belle Époque architecture that was once a major Roman outpost in the 1st to 4th centuries AD. Art enthusiasts can easily take in two neighbouring museums of the Riviera’s modern masters who were both long-time Riviera residents: begin with the Musée Chagall, and continue up the hill to the Musée Matisse. History buffs will want to wander through the vestiges of Roman Baths at the Musée d’Archéologie which also houses a collection of ancient coins, pottery and jewellery. Then, stop for a cool drink in the little café inside the vast park of olive groves and continue on foot to the Franciscan Monastery and rose garden, minutes away.

Evening

Browse through the antiques district near the Port on the rue Ségurane, then stop for a pick-me-up apéritif at the friendly neighbourhood bar Rouge, where they serve up small plates of delicious tapas, plus top-notch natural and rare local vintages. It’s a short walk to one of the city’s most sought-after tables, ONice, headed by rising star chefs Argentinian-born Florencia Montes and Lorenzo Ragni, who were newly awarded a Michelin star a year within opening. From the open kitchen of this small modern-style bistro come ever-changing, exquisitely prepared five- or seven-course delicious tasting menus, including small plates of fresh peas with caviar topped with pansies, morel tortellini in a mushroom broth, marlin with lemon butter and strawberry rhubarb dessert spiked with red pepper.

Night

Walk off your meal on the starlit Promenade des Anglais to Plage Hotel Amour, where live international DJs heat up the on-the-beach party scene until midnight.

Day two: Antibes, Cap d’Antibes, Cannes

Morning

The Château Grimaldi on the ramparts of Antibes – once the site of a Roman fort, then home to the Grimaldi family – became Picasso’s studio when he rented the cold damp room on the second floor in 1946 and painted with whatever materials he could find – ship’s paint and wood. Today, the Musée Picasso houses an impressive permanent collection of the artist’s works as well as seasonal shows. From there, drive west to the Cap d’Antibes for a languid Mediterranean-style lunch (try the roasted sea bass in a salt crust) at the family-run Restaurant César at the Plage Keller on La Garoupe Beach, the sandy cove immortalised in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night.

Afternoon

If you can tear yourself away from the beach, step back into les années folles at nearby Villa Eilen Roc, a stately Belle Époque home surrounded by exotic gardens, once owned by the Count and Countess Étienne de Beaumont, who threw lavish fêtes for their artist and writer friends in the 1920s. Alternatively, even soft-core trekkers will enjoy a hike on the coastal customs footpath – an uber-scenic hike on a rocky pine-shaded path that winds around the luxurious properties of the Cap d’Antibes.

Evening

There’s no better place to raise a glass at sunset than on the rooftop of Villa Djunah, a grand Moorish-style seaside mansion with a festive bar (try the white Riviera with Sauvignon Blanc and St Germain liqueur). For dinner, stay exotic follow the sea to Cannes’ 1929-built Art Deco Palm Beach Cannes on the Pointe Croisette, a Hispano-Moorish Palace (yes, another!) and Casino once frequented by the likes of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Winston Churchill and decades of glitterati. Now, after five years of closure and a 250 million-euro renovation (which includes an iconic salt-water pool, a members-only club, a fitness center, name brand boutiques and international restaurants) the latest star of this luxury complex is the just-opened rooftop Zuma Cannes. Book a seat on the terrace with a dreamy view of the Lérins Islands across the bay and order up a storm of delicious Izakaya-style dishes, including a special toro maki or beef tartare with Sancho pepper, myoga and black truffles.

Night

Head downstairs to the Palm Beach cabaret Medusa, hosting live nightly shows in an extravagant decor of gold, pink and marble. After hours, it turns into a club where the party rages until dawn.

Day three: Saint Tropez, Ramatuelle

Morning

Join the crowd of sweet-tooth addicts lining up for breakfast take-out at the new Cedric Grolet & Airelles pâtisserie in the centre of St Tropez. Forget croissants – supernova pastry chef Grolet excels in arty trompe l’oeil creations and fruity cakes almost too exquisite to eat. Spend the morning exploring the village, a maze of pedestrian streets lined with enticing boutiques, including some superb made-in-St-Tropez finery, fragrances and fancy footwear. The new shop Les Mocassins Tropeziens carries soft suede loafers in every shade; a colourful summer collection of custom handcrafted sandals awaits at K-Jacques; the opening of the elegant Baudoin & Lange joins the long list of international brands. Don’t miss local designer boutique Erevan, featuring a cool collection of sportwear and custom fragrances. For Riviera-inspired bespoke perfumes, cosmetics and candles, head to the steep backstreets of Maison ST parfum, whose organic sweet-scented local beauty line is featured in the new spa at boutique hotel AREV St Tropez.

Afternoon

Come high noon, everyone drifts from the village portside cafés to the Ramatuelle beaches for a leisurely lunch by the shimmering sea. There are private beach clubs to suit every taste; standard fare is a basket of raw vegetables dipped in hot anchovy sauce, grilled fish and lobster washed down with local rosé and an oozy custard cream Tarte Tropezienne for dessert. You haven’t had your fill of shopping, no worries: boho chic Indie Beach – gorgeously outfitted by JACQUEMUS with bold yellow and white stripes—and the Philippe Starck-designed La Reserve à la Plage –draped in Loro Piana elegance – and Casa Amor, ablaze with sunny Dolce & Gabbana fabrics – boast brand boutiques where you splurge on exclusive beachwear. Other options with reliably delicious cuisine include Loulou à Ramatuelle, Byblos Beach, Gigi, Shellona, Jardin Tropezina and naturellement, the celebrity-packed Club 55.

Evening

Drive up to the fortified hilltop village of Ramatuelle – a former Saracen stronghold of tiny vaulted flower-lined alleyways laid out in a snail-shaped circular labyrinth and order a Pastis in the family-run Café de l’Ormeau in the leafy square. It’s a short drive back down to Pampelonne for dinner at a newly-opened Italian restaurant, helmed by superb Piedmont-born chef Paolo Amadori, at Epi1959 – a private members-only luxe enclave of nine bungalows – who have opened their doors this summer to non-guests (reservations a must). Alternatively, you can head back to Saint Tropez for a family-style bling-less traditional bistro La Part des Anges in the backstreets up by the church Eglise-Notre-Dame-de- L’Assomption, where they serve up beef stew-filled ravioli and salted caramel panna cotta.

Night

In a town with a roaring late-night club scene, start with drinks at buzzy Kinugawa, an indoor/outdoor Japanese restaurant set back in an olive grove on the Route des Plages where live DJs crank up the decibels in a starlit setting.