Gaudy or iconic? How leopard print took over

Worn by everyone from pin-ups and "mob wives" to Jackie O and royalty, leopard print has long divided opinion. As the festive season approaches, the bold pattern has clawed its way up to become the party look for now.

Once dismissed as kitsch, leopard print has quietly clawed its way into the mainstream – so much so that some now view the bold pattern as a neutral. As the party season approaches, high-street clothing rails are filled with blazers, blouses, belts and dresses – all sporting the once-divisive print. 

But how did leopard print evolve into such a versatile style? While it has never truly disappeared from our wardrobes, the print has taken on many identities, symbolising everything from punk rebellion and rock 'n' roll edge to pin-up glamour and royal elegance. Despite its widespread appeal, let's not forget, it has also weathered periods where it was considered gaudy.  

For Jo Weldon, author of Fierce: The History of Leopard Print, it has always been a "progressive print", and one she has long associated with outsiders. "It was considered so daring that in the 1950s the first woman to model a leopard-print bikini was an exotic dancer, Micheline Bernardini," she tells the BBC, "likely due to its animalistic, untamed connotations."  

Leopard print's history predates its modern fashion legacy. In Ancient Africa and Asia, real leopard skin was a symbol of status, worn by royalty and warriors. In the 20th Century, as the fabric became more accessible, Hollywood catapulted the print into pop culture with the problematic Tarzan films – most notably in 1946's Tarzan and the Leopard Woman. Music icon Eartha Kitt adopted the print in an empowering move that reclaimed the fabric from these dubious associations with primitivism. Jackie Kennedy helped to cement its appeal – her 1962 leopard fur coat remains a source of inspiration even today, and at the time was said to have created a fashion trend that killed thousands of leopards.

Leopard print's association with sophistication and sensuality was embodied by Mrs Robinson, as played by Anne Bancroft in The Graduate, but once it transferred from fur to a print, it wasn't always seen as so classy. It was the signature look of iconic UK soap characters Bet Lynch of Coronation Street and Kat Slater of Eastenders, along with US TV character Peggy Bundy of Married… with Children, in part to signal their supposed gaudiness as well as their toughness. But pop stars including Mel B – or Scary Spice – and Amy Winehouse – wore it with defiant pride. And chic leopard devotee Kate Moss has even included a coat in the print for her new collaboration with Zara. These names showcase how leopard print has become a symbol of self-expression and power, something that also rings true in the world of pin-up. 

"It is ever popular in burlesque," says Weldon, who in addition to her writing work, is also head of the New York School of Burlesque. She traces the prints seductive power back to – where else – the leopard itself. "They're nocturnal, mysterious creatures, which adds to the print's glamour." 

Despite her fondness of all things leopard print, Weldon is well aware of the lingering snobbery. "There will always be people who are dismissive, and say it is 'trashy', perhaps because of its associations with characters like Peggy Bundy or Kat Slater, but that criticism often stems from classism." And, she adds with a smile, "Those characters make me love the print even more!"

This sentiment is echoed by Joy Montgomery of British Vogue. "There has always been a tension between this print embodying liberation and sexuality, as well as being powerful and yet feminine," she tells the BBC. Montgomery, who is the magazine's commerce editor, recalls a time, not so long ago, when leopard print was associated with an outspoken, "certain type of woman". She adds, "Janice from Friends comes to mind, as well as former Prime Minister Theresa May, who often wore leopard print heels, which sparked strong opinions."  

According to Montgomery, attitudes have shifted in recent years, thanks in large part to Gen Z's bold experimentation with fashion on TikTok. "Take the recent mob-wife trend, where suddenly, leopard print was all over our feeds." She adds, "This is a generation that loves a historic reference point or drawing inspiration from film characters, and it's great to see them playing with the print without baggage."

Gen Z's love for vintage shopping has also fuelled leopard print's resurgence. With the pattern's long history, second-hand pieces are readily available online or in vintage and charity shops. Montgomery does wonder whether older women feel the same freedom to experiment. However, she points out that the catwalks of autumn/winter 2024-2025 showcased a more refined take, mentioning Dior's leopard trench coat and Alaïa's chic knitwear as examples. 

It's something print designer Christy Deering has noticed, too. Over the past 10 years, she has designed for major high-street brands, and in the past year alone has designed more than 10 leopard-print garments. She credits high-end labels, as well as "it-girl" brands, for making leopard print a neutral. "We saw labels like Ganni and Rixo feature leopard print in 2023, and again on the high-end runways of 24/25," she says. Deering highlights a pair of trainers by Adidas x Wales Bonner that helped normalise leopard print in accessories, too. "Where it once was considered a bold print," she says, "it can now be styled for day, night, work and even sleep." Those trainers, by the way, started retailing at $200 and now sell for up to $2000.  

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Whilst designing, Deering always keeps a single customer in mind. When asked who embodies the leopard-print aesthetic, she describes her as someone who wants to dabble in trends while maintaining a sense of individuality. "Leopard has become a safe staple of many women's wardrobes," she says, "from the glam girl to the femme girl to the grunge girl – there's always a home for leopard print." 

"In today's world, any judgment about leopard print isn't about classism – it's about individualism," says fashion and beauty editor Lauren Cunningham. She believes the trend is here to stay, but notes a growing desire for people to style it in their own way. 

"Vintage leopard print will always be popular, and with platforms like eBay, Vinted and charity shops, it's easier to personalise the trend rather than shopping straight from the high street." 

Like print designer Christy Deering and Vogue's Joy Montgomery, Cunningham closely follows fashion weeks. "It's often slim pickings when trying to spot trends across all runways," she says. "But this year, leopard print was everywhere. I think it's because it's so versatile and fun – you can make it punk, feminine, bohemian or tailored." 

Her advice for anyone wanting to try the trend? "Start small, with an accessory like a belt or bag, and work your way up to bigger leopard-print spots!" 

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