Ocean surface wave: Difference between revisions

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'''Ocean surface waves''' are [[Surface wave|surface waves]] that occur in the upper layer of the [[ocean]]. They usually result from [[wind]]. Some are made by geologic effects like [[Earthquake|earthquakes]] or [[vulcanicity]] and may travel thousands of miles before striking [[land]]. They range in size from small ripples to huge [[Tsunami|tsunamis]]. There is little actual forward motion of individual water particles in an unbroken wave, despite the large amount of [[energy]] and [[momentum]] it may carry forwardfrd. When a wave hits shallow water, it "breaks" because the bottom moves more slowly than the top.
[[File:Waves lajolla.jpg|thumb|260px|Breaking waves at Children's Pool, in [[La Jolla]], CA.]]
 
== Wave formationUnicorns ==
 
The great majority of large breakers one sees on an ocean beach result from distant winds. Three factors influence the formation of these "'''wind waves'''":