Adunan solek
Penampilan
![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Foundation_%28cosmetics%29.jpg/220px-Foundation_%28cosmetics%29.jpg)
Adunan solek (beauty foundation) ialah suatu bahan alat solekan atau kosmetik dalam bentuk cecair atau serbuk yang dipakaikan pada muka menyekatakan permukaan dari segi warna kulit atau tekstur dirasakan (misalnya daripada calar balar atau parut). Ia turut boleh berfungsi melembap kulit atau melindungi pemakai daripada terik dan kesan sinaran matahari.
Jenis
[sunting | sunting sumber]Formulasi
[sunting | sunting sumber]Aspek ini bertumpu kepada pembentukan adunan diingini berdasarkan bahan asaa yang digunapakai.
- Berasaskan minyak
- Campuran beremolien- terdiri daripada bahan asas minyak (usually minyak galian) atau emollien (seperti petrolatum, lilin lebah atau lanolin) dengan penambahan pigmen. Bahan sebatian ini dirasakan pekat seakan pelembap bibir atau gincu. Ia kalis air dan kekal melembapkan namun boleh tercomot, memudar atau berubdah warna hasik pengoksidaan; lilin jenis sintetik labih lazim digunakan dalam penghasilan sejak tahun 1970-an.
- Oil-based shakers are different from traditional oil-and-emollient-based makeup in that they were liquid foundations developed before emulsifiers and binding agent was available, and thus separate in the bottle, like the alcohol-based formulas mentioned below. Once shaken, this is akin to applying coloured oil to the skin, with a smooth texture that can provide medium coverage with a moist finish. Liquid foundation is applied using a damp makeup sponge and is especially effective around the eye.[1] It was a marked improvement in application, stability and finish over the tradition oil bases, but improvements since then have rendered these nearly extinct. Examples: Alexandra de Markoff Countess Isserlyn, Frances Denney Incandescent.
- Berasaskan alkohol - campuran air, alkohol dinyahaslikan dengan tambahan pigmen. Ia bersifat ringan dan sesuai untuk kulit yang berkencenderungan menumbuh jerawat. Adunan sebegini perlu digoncang sebelum digunakan dengan penyapu lembut seperti helaian kapas.
- Berasaskan serbuk - talkum digunakan sebagai bahan asas serta dicampurkan dengan pigme dan bahan-bahan emolien dan pengikat lain.
- Berasaskan galian[2] - sering muncul dalam bentuk serbuk longgar. Galian asas yang umum digunakan dalam penyebatian ini termasuk mika, bismut oksiklorida, titanium dioksida atau zink dioksida.
- Berasaskan air - mengandungi pengemulsi menstabilkan campuran minyak dan air. Tekstur bahan air yang seakan krim ini mmeberikan penampilan lebih semula jadi berbanding adunan-adunan yang ada pada ketika itu.
- Water-based cream make-up has a rich, creamy texture that can be sheer to full coverage with a moist, satiny finish. It usually comes in a jar or tube and is much more comfortable and realistic looking on the skin than the oil or emollient-based predecessors. Examples: Elizabeth Arden Hydro-Light, Guerlain Issima.
- Water-based oil-free eliminates oil altogether, but substitutes an emollient ester or fatty alcohol in the base, and adds a mattifying agent — usually clay — to dry to a flat, non-reflective (“matte”) finish. Oil-free liquids are quite thick and heavy, and the earliest versions took time to pour out of the bottle. They provide solid medium coverage but dry quickly, and can thus set before blended is complete. The result is streaking, which is then difficult to smooth out without starting over from scratch. The usual recommendation is to divide the face into quarter sections and to apply and blend the makeup over one section (rather than the entire face) at a time. Blending over moisturised skin with a wet sponge can also help compensate for the lack of slip. However, they will last a long time and resist smudging, even on very oily skin. Examples: Estee Lauder Fresh Air.
- Water-based transfer-resistant follows the same formulation as oil-free but uses a film former or polymer instead of (or in addition to) the clay to achieve a matte finish that resists being rubbed off. Transfer-resistant make-up was launched in 1993 by Revlon-owned Ultima II with Lipsexxxy,[3] the first lip-colour that included film former to prevent rubbing off. By 1996, WonderWear foundation and Revlon Colorstay had been launched, using the same technology as the lipsticks. Transfer-resistant (sometimes called transfer-proof) makeup will last on very oily skin, skin that perspires heavily, or in humid climates longer than any other type of foundation, though it is even more difficult to apply than oil-free makeup. The thick texture dries almost instantly and requires a fair amount of experimentation to master. The most modern versions (such as Revlon Colorstay SoftFlex) have made marked improvements[4] over predecessors in that regard.
- Berasaskan silikon - bahan asas silikon (yang juga dicampur bersama air) memberikan ciri kelinciran dan kelikatan yng lebih baik daripada adunan berasaskan minyak lalu memudahkan pemakaian pada kulit sehingga ringan dan selesa. Adunan sebegini juga kurang cenderung mengoksida sehingga berubah warna semasa tempoh pemakaiannya. Namun, ia mempunyai masalah sendiri di mana ia bisa merekah atau menggumpal pada kulit hasil perbezaan cas elektrik antara sebatian dipakai dengan permukaan muka.[5]
Warna
[sunting | sunting sumber]![]() |
Tataguna
[sunting | sunting sumber]Bahan adunan sebegini boleh dipakaikan pada muka dengan pelbagai alat yang bersesuaian pada muka yang telah dibersihkan terlebih dahulu:
- Jemari: Haba dalaman yang teragih pada jari-jemari memudahkan pencairan adunan pada kulit dan pencampuran bersama bahan solekan lain. Kaedah ini hanya cocok untuk pemakaian separa.
- Span: Sesuai untuk peliputan ringan ke sederhana. Span berbentuk segi tiga sesuai untuk adunan cecair sementara span berbentuk bulatan lebih lazim untuk adunan serbuk, namun kedua-dua bentuk span boleh dipakai bebas. Span dibasahkan dengan air terlebih dahulu sebelum menyapu adunan untuk mengelakkan penyerapan adunan oleh span sendiri serta membolehkan pengaihan serata kulit.
- Brush: Berus berbulu sintetik atau bulu semulajadi berpori lebih lazim dipakai mengelakkan penyerapan cecair yang terlalu banyak. Bulu yang dipakai juga prlu lebat agar tidak meninggalkan kesan ketara.
- Berus udara: Bersesuaian untuk adunan cecair meliputi kulit dengan sekata lalu bisa ternampak ringan dan tidak berkerak. Berus dan span boleh dipakai bagi meringankan kesan berus udara yang terlebih pada muka.
Rujukan
[sunting | sunting sumber]- ^ You should not believe these 5 Makeup Myths – Understand What Foundation Is Really About - Skin Achievement, Feb 4, 2013
- ^ "What is Mineral makeup?". Dicapai pada 10 March 2012.
- ^ Article from WWD 26 February 1993. Kagan, Cara
- ^ Make-up compositions containing phenylated silicone oils, which are resistant to transfer and migration – L'oreal. Freepatentsonline.com. Retrieved on 2011-12-08.
- ^ Croda's new ester – superior to silicon?. Cosmeticsdesign.com. Retrieved on 2011-12-08.