Otumba
Otumba, officially referred to as Otumba de Gomez Farias, is a small town of less than 10,000 residents in rural Mexico State. Although the big city suburbs are steadily encroaching on the town, it still retains a rural character that is best exemplified by its love of animals, particularly the humble burro. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
History
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Otumba has a very colorful history and is most famous for a battle between indigenous natives and the Spanish troops under the command of Cortez.
The town's roots stretch back to about 200 AD, though a large influx of Otomi people settled here around 1200. The name "Otumba" means "place of the Otomi" and there are still residents who consider themselves to be Otomi or mestizo with Otomi heritage. In the 15th century it came under Aztec domination and paid tribute to Texcoco.
The Battle of Otumba occurred in the immediate aftermath of Cortez murder of the Aztec emperor. Cortez and his men were fleeing from Tenochtitaln seeking shelter with their allies in Tlaxcala when, on July 7 1520, they encountered a combined army of several thousand warriors from several cultures that were allied with the Aztec and united under the command of Moctezuma's son Cuitlahuac. Although the home-town team massively outnumbered the pitiful little Spanish army, the Spanish had knights in armor on horseback who struck fear into the native warriors, whose inexplicable cowardice let Cortez and his men escape and survive to fight another day.
Get in
The closest commercial airport to Otumba is Mexico City's Felipe Angeles International Airport (NLU IATA) (commonly known as AIFA, or Santa Lucia). It is about 1 hour by taxi from Otumba.
By bus
Autobuses Teotihuacanes operates hourly buses to Otumbe. Buses depart from Terminal Autobuses del Norte at half past the hour and cost M$50 for the 1-hour trip.
- 1 bus stop, Av. Miguel Hidalgo y Calle Porfirio Diaz. In addition to the Autobuses Teotihuacanes buses that will take you to Mexico City/Autobuses del Norte, there are buses to Texcoco and combis to nearby cities and towns. It's a busy intersection, but transport is available here to almost anywhere in the region you want to go. Ask locals and be prepared to walk a block or so to catch the right bus or combi.
By car
From Mexico City, Otumba is a 1-hour drive (at low traffic volume times of the day, double or triple that for rush hour). Drive northeast of the city on federal highway 153D (toll) for 40 km. When you reach San Pablo Ixquitlán you will turn east on state highway 9 for about 10 km and you will be in Otumba.
Get around
See
- 1 Explanada Municipal (Zocalo), Calle Ignacio Allende, Centro. The town's main plaza is a large, open area with paved walkways, benches, shade trees, a fountain, a large bandstand, and the colorful letters spelling out the town's name and just begging for some selfie takers to come clown around for a fun photo. The Palacio Municipal and several other colonial era buildings are here and the area is very pedestrian friendly with cobblestone streets and walkways.
- 2 Museo del Ferrocarril, Hidalgo 51, La Estacion, ☏ +52 592 922 1389. Sa-Su 10:00 - 16:00, closed M-F. Railroad history museum housed in a former train station that was built in 1906 and operated until 1997 when passenger trains were discontinued in most of Mexico. M$25 (M$50 to take photos).
- 3 Museo Gonzalo Carrasco, De La Constitución 17, ☏ +52 592 922 0161. Tu-Su 10:00 - 15:00, closed M. Regional history museum in a restored hacienda home. Learn about the history of the town and how a pulque hacienda operated during Mexico's colonial era. Many period furnishings and historical artifacts. Free.
- 4 Parroquia de la Purísima Concepción (Church of the Immaculate Conception), Torres Adalid 19, Centro. The church began as a monastery that was established by Franciscan missionaries in 1530. The current church was built in 1603. An historical pedestal called La Picota was damaged during the Revolution. It marked a ceremonial power transition between viceroys early in Mexico's colonial period.
Nearby
- Ex-Convento San Nicolás de Bari - just 10 minutes by taxi (or 30 by bicycle) is a beautiful 16th century monastery that is actively used as a community church. The church was built on top of the platform of a destroyed Aztec temple. The church seems far too large and ornate for a rural small community. The facade, added in 1675, is decorated with vegetable motifs.
- Haciendas were common in Mexico State during the colonial era and several of the nearby villages have historic haciendas that made pulque in the 18th century. Some of these haciendas lie in ruins but others are well restored and operate as hotels, spas, or wedding venues. Hacienda San Antonio Xala operates as a hotel, restaurant and equestrian center and visitors are welcome to see the property. Other haciendas that you may be able to visit include the Hacienda Santa María de Guadalupe Tepa and the Hacienda Soapayuca.
Do
- 1 Burrolandia, Calle Estación 6, La Estación, ☏ +52 554 926 7362. Daily 09:00 - 18:00. Local animal rescue operation that provides a home for burros who are retired from farm work (usually replaced by a tractor). About 100 burros live here and visitors can buy carrots to feed the animals. Little kids can ride the donkeys. M$100 (adult).
Festivals
- Feria del Burro - since 1965, the town's most popular event is the annual Feria del Burro, celebrating the town's favorite animal. In addition to food, music, dance, carnival rides and games, the festival features donkey-oriented events like burro racing, dressing up burros as famous celebrities, and burro polo matches
Buy
- 1 Mercado Municipal, Otumba -Tizayuca Manzana 077, Centro. Daily 08:00 - 19:30. The town's traditional marketplace caters to a local clientele, not to tourists who may find its crowded, chaotic aisles to be uncomfortable. Nonetheless, it is a place to find fresh produce, household necessities, and a wide range of local foods.
Eat
Popular foods in Otumba include tlacoyos, quesadillas de flor de calabaza, barbacoa, mixiote, mole, and pulque. In season, a number of unusual specialties are served that will likely offend tourists with squemish stomachs. These include insects like maguey larvae, chinicuiles, escamoles, and snails. You can find these in the Mercado Municipal and at local restaurants that specialize in regional cuisine.
- 1 Burro Naco, Abasolo 4 Col, Centro, ☏ +52 555 334 5403. M-Sa 10:00 - 19:00, Su 10:00 - 13:30. Excellent breakfast with large portions. Thursday is pozole day with your choice of red, green, or white pozole (with all the fixin's). M$100.
- 2 Endemica, Emiliano F, Eugenio Montaño 9, ☏ +52 556 880 2573. W-M 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tu. Bright, modern restaurant with cheery decor, friendly service, and a wide selection of modern Mexican dishes.
- 3 Punto y Coma, Porfirio Díaz 10, ☏ +52 592 922 0344. Daily 09:30 - 20:30. Comfortable, family-friendly restaurant specializing in seafood but with a variety of other dishes like arracherra or pork cutlets, salads, and pastas. Homemade flan with cajeta is a winner. M$300.
- 4 La Gloria, De La Constitución 17, ☏ +52 557 194 1056. Daily 09:00 - 18:00. Traditional regional Mexican cuisine in a cozy downtown location with a 2nd floor dining room opening out onto the main plaza. Locals recommend the enmoladas, smothered in melted cheese. M$200.
Drink
Sleep
- 1 Hotel Dali, Torres Adalid 12, ☏ +52 592 922 1894. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel with barebones rooms that are clean but a bit small. No locks on room doors. Street parking only. M$300.
- 2 Hotel Franco, Porfirio Díaz 10, Centro, ☏ +52 592 922 1604. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with clean rooms that lack heat and air conditioning (there are blankets in the closet for cold nights). Limited off-street parking. No on-site restaurant, but there is a restaurant next door. Nice for the price. M$500.
- 3 Hotel El Encanto, Calle Manuel Hernández, ☏ +52 554 954 1154. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic budget accomodations with minimally equipped rooms. M$400.
- 4 Hotel Otomi, Torres Adalid s/n, Colonia Centro, ☏ +52 554 138 9512. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with new facilities. Clean, spacious rooms. Ample off-street parking. M$450.