Belur
Belur (Kannada: ಬೇಲೂರು) is a historic town in Hassan district of Karnataka state.
Understand
The historic town Belur, one of the monuments of Karnataka, is beautifully set on banks of Yagachi river, amidst lush surroundings, in Hassan district of Karnataka. It was formerly known as Velapuri and was chosen as the alternate capital city by the Hoysala’s after the ransacking and destruction of their then capital Dwarasumudra (now known as Halebeedu or Halebidu) by the sultans of the Northern India.
Hoysalas ruled the Deccan and the parts of present day Tamil Nadu, between 11th and 13th Centuries. The Hoysala dynasty is said to have been named after the words ‘Hoy Sala’- Hoy means ‘Strike’, Sala is the name of a legendary leader called ‘Sala’. Sala is said to have killed a lion which was ready to pounce on a meditating Guru Sudatta Muni who in turn blessed him by giving him the power to rule. By virtue of this heroic act he becomes the leader of the tribe and gradually emerges as the king. The Sala symbol was King Vishnuvardhana's creation and became the Hoysala symbol or crest, from his time.
The main entrance to the Chennakesava temple complex is crowned by an ornate gopuram or tower, built in the Vijayanagara style. Within the complex, the main temple of Chennakesava lies in the centre, facing east, flanked on its right by the Kappe Chennigaraya temple, and a small Lakshmi shrine. Set back on its left is an Andal or Ammanavara temple. There are two graceful Garuda sthambhas, or pillars, in the main courtyard. The sthambha facing the main temple was built in the Vijayanagara period, and the one to the right of the temple was built by the Hoysalas.
Being patrons or art and architecture, during their 300 year reign Hoysalas have built numerous temples and monuments. Belur is the best of the Hoysala creation. The magnificent monument of Belur, the awesome architecture and splendid sculptures makes it heaven on earth, therefore called the ‘modern Vaikuntha (heaven) on earth’
Belur and Halibeedu are Jewels in the Indian cultural heritage.
Myths and Legend:
King Vishnuvardhana is supposed to have dreamt about Lord Chennakesava while on a night stay in Baba Budan Forest decided to construct the temple at Belur. By doing so he unwitting separated the Lord from his consort living in the forest of Baba Budan. It’s believed that the lord visits his consort daily, therefore the local cobbler community presents s fresh pair of sandals daily and it disappears by night after being presented to the lord.
Talk
A number of languages are spoken around here that reflects the cultural diversity of Karnataka. Kannada is the official state language but English is also widely understood, so communication shouldn't be much of a problem.
Get in
By Air: The nearest airport is Mangalore (154 km).
By Road: Well connected to all important cities of Karnataka. Regular buses connect Belur to Hassan (37 km) Halibeedu (16 km) Arsikere (60 km) Dharmastala (98 km) Bangalore (224 km) Belgaum (424 km) Chickmagular (27 km) Madikeri (136 km) Mysore (155 km) Shimoga (122 km) and Shravanabelagola (87 km). I traveled by road from Mangalore via Dharmastala- Mudigere to Belur- it’s a very beautiful ghat road, with many water falls, lovely hill side views and numerous tea estates. This route is a windy mountain road and appropriate time should be budgeted for it. Be advised that the above can pose a safety risk, so when driving, stay alert and focused throughout the ride
If you are driving your car from Bangalore- Here is driving direction:
Start from Bangalore Railway Station, take the Tumkur Road National Highway No.4 and head for Yeswantpur and reach Nelamangala (30 km from Bangalore) At Nelamangala turn left on National Highway (NH)48 and head towards Kunigal(44 km from Nelamangala) From Kunigal continue on National Highway (NH)48 and reach Chennarayapatna (30 km from Kunigal) From Chennarayapatna continue on National Highway(NH)48 until you reach Hassan (40 km from Chennarayapatna ) From Hassan take the State Highway (SH)57 and drive to and reach Belur (40 km from Hassan )
On this Route- the Distance from Bangalore to Belur is 233 km. And Drive from Bangalore to Belur takes about 4.66 hours by car
There is a parking fee to park your vehicle (or taxi) in front of the temple - which is valid for the day (true for both temples- Belur and Halebedu).
KSTDC Heritage Tours from Bengaluru and Mysuru:
The KSTDC Belur, Halebid, and Sravanabelagola tour runs daily in season (April to June and Sept to Nov) and four times a week the rest of the year. There are also tours run by private operators departing almost every day. It is better to use the KSTDC tour if possible, as they use a luxury four-seats-across bus while the private companies use small, bumpy (especially if sitting in the back) minibuses. Both the private company and KSTDC tours pick you up at your hotel. This is a good way to see the sites, as they are difficult to reach by public transportation.
If you are returning from Belur/Halebid back to Bangalore, then you can consider stopping over at Shravanabelogala to see the giant Bahubali statue.
By Rail: Nearest Railway Station is Hassan (37 km) which is connected to Bangalore, Mangalore and Mysore.
Get around
If you want to book the KSTDC tour make sure you book on a weekend as the volvo buses are only available on Sat and Sun. On all the other days Non AC buses ply to these places.
See
The following temples are open daily between 7:30AM and 5:30PM.
Inner Sanctum of main deity stays closed from 10 to 11AM, 1 to 3PM, 5 to 5:30PM.
Many government-approved tour guides can be hired to show around the temple for Rs 125-250.
- Chenna Kesava Temple
The temple of Chenna Kesava (literally meaning ‘Handsome Kesava’ in the Kananda language) is dedicated to Lord Vijayanarayana, one of the 24 incarnations of Vishnu.
Construction was begun in 1116 A.D, and took 103 years to complete. The temple is roughly 100 feet high and has a magnificent threshold or Gopuram. Its inner walls are adorned with sculptured stories from the Puranas, the Upanishads and the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata.
Darpana Sundari (Lady with the mirror) carved on walls of Belur temple is one of the major attractions. These are several representations of Madanikas (heavenly nymphs) singing and dancing.
This elaborate temple complex is enclosed by the high walls; it has a garbha griha (sanctum sanctorum), a Sukhanasi (vestibule) and navaranga mandapa. The complex has many small shrines, mandapas and other structures. There are two thresholds or gateways, but only one has a gopuram and it was built in 1935.
Poojas have been performed every morning and evening at this temple for almost 900 years.
The temples of Belur and Halibeedu were carved from soapstone (steatite).
- Kappe (Frog) Chennigaraya Temple
This small shrine resembling the main temple is located south of the main sanctum. It is dedicated to Kappe Chennigaraya and was consecrated by Shantala Devi, a queen. Note the icon of Lord Kappe Chennigaraya.
- The Gravity Pillar or the 'Lamp Post'
It amazes many people that such a tall (42 feet) pillar that was constructed in 1414 is still standing.
Chenna Kesava Temple is surrounded by Kappe Chennigaraya Temple on the south and Veera Narayana temple on the west and other shrines and mandapas within the main temple complex:
- Veera Narayana Temple
This small shrine, west of Chenna Kesava temple, is dedicated to Veera Narayana or Lakshmi Narayana. Its outer walls are decorated with large images of divinities.
- The Big Tank or Vishnu Samudra:
The Big tank of Belur is known as Vishnu Samudra.
Do
Main thing to see are the temples. No other major activity to do here though. The temple it self takes up most of your time.
Make sure you take a camera along, these historic monuments and sculptures make interesting visual delights and are worth capturing. The guides that you get at Belur and Halibidu are ok. Some part of what they tell you is made up but the other part is actual history.
Buy
As you exit the temple you may be approached by vendors stalking you to try and sell various books, trinkets and other souvenirs.
You get some nice bronze and stone statuettes that you can buy as souvenirs. There is nothing much to shop about in this temple town.
Eat
- Ragi mudde (Kannada: ರಾಗಿ ಮುದ್ದೆ)] is a wholesome meal in Karnataka and it is mainly popular with the rural folk of Karnataka.
- Avarekaalina Saaru and raagi mudde are very famous in Hassan. Also, avarekaalina saaru tastes good with all kinds of rotis and chapathis also.
- Puliyogare (Kannada: ಪುಳಿಯೋಗರೆ)] is a south Indian rice preparation usually eaten as a snack. Puli means sour taste and Ogara means rice in Halegannada, thus Puliyogare translates as sour tasting rice. Puliyogare is also known as Huli anna or Tamarind rice in some parts of Karnataka.
- Sakre Pongal- freshly harvested rice and jaggery ('palm sugar') are put to boil in pots the out is bubbly mixture. Served hot-Enjoy Sakre Pongal.
Drink
It is customary to serve coffee to visitors. The best coffee beans in India are grown in Karnataka and in Hassan District.
Sleep
- Mayura Velapuri, Temple Road, +91 8177-222209. A very basic hotel run by KSTDC (Karbataka State Tourism Department), within walking distance to the Belur Temple (there is another Mayura hotel close to Halibidu Temple as well). The proximity is the only thing good about this hotel which offers air-con, fan and dormitory rooms. The manager would arrange for water (hot and cold) to be brought to your room when you need it. The rooms themselves are new and clean, but the bedding is modest, although clean. The lodging is therefore not top class, but the proximity to the temple (you can see the temple at the end of the street from the lodge—maybe a 5-minute stroll through the shop lined streets) is its plus. There is a restaurant on-site as well, the food and coffee there are in poor taste, though. A/C rooms Rs. 600 per night, non-A/C rooms ₹800 per night for double room (₹200 extra for third person), dorms ₹3,000 for min 20 people.
- Sumukha Residency, Temple Road, +91-08177 222181. Tariff: Non-A/C Double Rooms Rs. 600 per night.
- Vishnu Lodge, Temple Road.
- Vishnu Residency. Double fan rooms cost ₹250.
- 'Sudha Lodge' Non AC Double room cost ₹250. A decent place to stay in the small town,situated opposite to the bustand and The Chennakesava temple is 5min walk from here.
Good Hotels are also available at Hassan.
At Hassan you can stay at any of the following Hotels:-
- Hotel Amblee Palika, Hassan Tel:66307.
- Hotel Hassan Ashhok, P.B. No. 121, B.M. Road, Hassan, Ph: +91-08172-268731 (6 Lines) Fax: +91-8172-267154, Email: [email protected], Website: www.hassanashok.com
- Kotari Hotels. Station Road, Hassan
- Hotel Suvarna Arcade, B.M.Road, Hassan. Tel: 67422/67433
- Hoysala Village Resort, Handinkere, Belur Road, Hassan. Telephone No: +91-08172 256764/793/795. Fax: 08172-256 065. Email: [email protected] Tariff: Price per day: ₹6,300-7,500.
Hoysala Village Resort is located on Belur - Chikmagalur Highway. The resort has 33 rooms, out of which 29 are Standard rooms and 4 Suites. The amenities provided are Doctor on call, Travel desk, Laundry service, Swimming pool, Car parking and Conference hall. The resort also has an in-house restaurant and a bar. The resort provides sightseeing packages to the tourists
Go next
- Dharmastala - Belur - Halebidu - Shravanabelagola would complete a brief Heritage tour of southern Karnataka. They call Belur, Halibeedu and Shravanabelagola as the triangle eloquence in stone and are nominated to be UNESCO World Heritage Centers.
- You can go north and to Chikmagalur (27 km) (3000–3500 ft ASL) - Coffee plantations and forests combine to give a feel that is a little different to Coorg. The area is less populated and plantations are larger, surrounded with hills, forests and river streams.
- You can go south to Madikeri- also known as Coorg or Mercara, travel via Shimoga. At Medikeri you can go to Talakaveri and Nagarhole National Park, they are both must see places.
- You can go east towards Bangalore (224 km)– Karnataka capital. Bangalore, officially known as Bengaluru, is one of the most hip and happening cities in India and also a major center of the I.T. industry
- Enroute you can visit Halebidu, Hassan and Shravanabelagola.
- You can go west towards Mangalore a port city and the headquarters of Dakshina Kannada district in the coastal region of Karnataka State in India.
- En route to Mangalore you can visit the famous Dharmastala which is 98 km away. Dharmastala is a renowned pilgrimage destination where Manjunatha Swamy temple is situated.