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File:Shoaling coefficient as a function of depth.svg

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English: Shoaling coefficient KS as a function of relative water depth h/L0, describing the effect of wave shoaling on the wave height – based on conservation of energy and results from Airy wave theory. The local wave height H at a certain mean water depth h is equal to H = KS H0, with H0 the wave height in deep water (i.e. when the water depth is greater than about half the wavelength). The shoaling coefficient KS depends on h/L0, where L0 is the wavelength in deep water: L0 = g/(2π) T2, with T the wave period and g the gravity of Earth. The blue line is the shoaling coefficient according to Green's law for waves in shallow water, i.e. when the water depth is less than 1/20 times the local wavelength L = T √(gh).
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See:
  • R.G. Dean & R.A. Dalrymple (1991) Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists, World Scientific, pp. 53–61 & 100–112 ISBN: 9810204205.
  • Y. Goda (2000) Random seas and design of maritime structures (2nd ed.), World Scientific, pp. 5–9, 45–57 & 75–78 ISBN: 981-02-3256-X.

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24 July 2017

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Date/TimeThumbnailDimensionsUserComment
current16:24, 24 July 2017Thumbnail for version as of 16:24, 24 July 2017853 × 489 (146 KB)Kraaiennest== {{int:filedesc}} == {{Information |description={{en|1=Shoaling coefficient ''K''<sub>S</sub> as a function of relative water depth ''h''/''L''<sub>0</sub>, describing the effect of wave shoaling on the [[w:wave height|wave height...

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