Emmanuelle Khanh: Difference between revisions
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===Fashion design=== |
===Fashion design=== |
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In 1962, Khanh and Christiane Bailly launched their first collection under the label Emma Christie, which was retailed through popular Paris boutiques.<ref name=nyobit/> Khanh rapidly became a leading name in Paris young fashion, and was compared to [[Mary Quant]]. |
In 1962, Khanh and Christiane Bailly launched their first collection under the label Emma Christie, which was retailed through popular Paris boutiques.<ref name=nyobit/> Khanh rapidly became a leading name in Paris young fashion, and was compared to [[Mary Quant]]. Like Quant and the London [[Mod (subculture)|Mod movement]], Khanh was seen as a leading name in the [[French New Wave]] movement.<ref name=nyobit/> |
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In 1963, she was described as knowing exactly what young women wanted, selling her clothing in both Britain and the United States.<ref name=nyobit/> By 1964, her business fetched $4 million a year, and she was credited with having brought "class and status" to the French ready-made clothing industry.<ref>{{cite journal|title=Power of Positive Patches|journal=LIFE|date=13 March 1964|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=HVQEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA61#v=onepage&q&f=false|publisher=Time Inc|language=en}}</ref> |
In 1963, she was described as knowing exactly what young women wanted, selling her clothing in both Britain and the United States.<ref name=nyobit/> By 1964, her business fetched $4 million a year, and she was credited with having brought "class and status" to the French ready-made clothing industry.<ref>{{cite journal|title=Power of Positive Patches|journal=LIFE|date=13 March 1964|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=HVQEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA61#v=onepage&q&f=false|publisher=Time Inc|language=en}}</ref> |
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In 1964, she signed an exclusive contract with the New York City department store [[Henri Bendel]], and also sold clothing through [[Macy's]] "Little Shop" boutiques.<ref name=nyobit/> Around this time, she launched the London-based hairstylist [[Vidal Sassoon]] in Paris by asking him to do the hair for a fashion show in the early 1960s. The models, who wore snugly fitting [[James Wedge]] hats, pulled off the hats at the end of the show to demonstrate how Sassoon's signature architectural cuts simply fell back into place, which astonished the French press and established Sassoon as a challenge to world-renowned French hairdressing.<ref name=vidal/> She also gave a publicity boost to the Italian fashion house [[Missoni]] in 1965, when she and [[Ottavio Missoni]] collaborated on a knitwear collection.<ref name=tai>{{cite news|title=Ottavio 'Tai' Missoni|url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/10047234/Ottavio-Tai-Missoni.html|accessdate=11 May 2013|newspaper=The Telegraph|date=9 May 2013}}</ref> |
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| ⚫ | In addition to Missoni, Khanh also designed collections for similarly youth-oriented labels [[Krizia]] and [[Cacharel]].<ref name=nyobit/> Khanh said she wanted to design clothes that anyone on the street could wear.<ref name=fdr>{{cite book|last1=Kennedy|first1=Alicia|last2=Stoehrer |first2=Emily Banis|last3=Calderin|first3=Jay|title=Fashion Design, Referenced: A Visual Guide to the History, Language, and Practice of Fashion|publisher=Rockport Publishers|isbn=9781592536771|page=66|url=https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=76p1khskZK4C&pg=PA66}}</ref> |
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A contemporary press piece in 1968 ranked Khanh and Bailly alongside [[Michèle Rosier]] as part of a "new race" of young designers, described as "stylists who work for [[ready-to-wear]]."<ref>{{cite news|title=Les couturiers refont fortune|work=L'Express|date=26 February 1968|page=29}}</ref> These French ready-to-wear designers were called ''créateurs''.<ref name=fdr/> |
A contemporary press piece in 1968 ranked Khanh and Bailly alongside [[Michèle Rosier]] as part of a "new race" of young designers, described as "stylists who work for [[ready-to-wear]]."<ref>{{cite news|title=Les couturiers refont fortune|work=L'Express|date=26 February 1968|page=29}}</ref> These French ready-to-wear designers were called ''créateurs''.<ref name=fdr/> |
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In 1971, Khanh and the London-based [[Ossie Clark]] were the first members of a new fashion group, ''Créateurs et Industriels'', founded by the manufacturer Didier Grumbach as a means of bringing together innovative ready-to-wear designers from around the world (including [[Issey Miyake]] and [[Thierry Mugler]]) with manufacturers prepared to promote their originality. The group was eventually absorbed by the [[Fédération française de la couture|Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture]] |
In 1971, Khanh and the London-based [[Ossie Clark]] were the first members of a new fashion group, ''Créateurs et Industriels'', founded by the manufacturer Didier Grumbach as a means of bringing together innovative ready-to-wear designers from around the world (including [[Issey Miyake]] and [[Thierry Mugler]]) with manufacturers prepared to promote their originality. The group was eventually absorbed by the [[Fédération française de la couture|Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture]].<ref name=fdr/> |
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She founded her own company in 1971, Emmanuelle Khanh Paris, opened the first boutiques in her own name in 1977, and formed Emmanuelle Khanh International in 1987. The company closed in the late 1990s, and the Khanh brand was sold in 2007 to a Dutch [[conglomerate (company)|conglomerate]].<ref name=nyobit/> |
She founded her own company in 1971, Emmanuelle Khanh Paris, opened the first boutiques in her own name in 1977, and formed Emmanuelle Khanh International in 1987. The company closed in the late 1990s, and the Khanh brand was sold in 2007 to a Dutch [[conglomerate (company)|conglomerate]].<ref name=nyobit/> |
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Revision as of 13:14, 17 August 2017
Emmanuelle Khanh (12 September 1937 – 17 February 2017) was a French fashion designer, stylist and former model. She was particularly known for her distinctive outsize eyewear, and was considered one of the leading young designers of the 1960s New Wave movement in France.[1]
Early life
Born Renée Georgette Jeanne Mézière in Paris on 12 September 1937, and nicknamed Nono, her father René worked for the French Resistance newspaper Combat. Her mother, Ernestine, died when Renée was 10 years old.[1]
In 1957 she married the designer Nyguen Manh Khanh, known for his inflatable furniture.[1]
Fashion career
Modelling
Renée decided to become a fashion model after graduating from business school, and subsequently became a fitting model for Cristóbal Balenciaga. At this point she assumed the professional name Emmanuelle.[1] She also modelled for Hubert de Givenchy. After four years, she quit modelling in order to pursue a career in fashion design.[1] The hairdresser Vidal Sassoon described the 5 foot 6 Khanh as "the epitome of why men loved French girls," with her "slim and exotic" looks.[2]
Fashion design
In 1962, Khanh and Christiane Bailly launched their first collection under the label Emma Christie, which was retailed through popular Paris boutiques.[1] Khanh rapidly became a leading name in Paris young fashion, and was compared to Mary Quant. Like Quant and the London Mod movement, Khanh was seen as a leading name in the French New Wave movement.[1]
In 1963, she was described as knowing exactly what young women wanted, selling her clothing in both Britain and the United States.[1] By 1964, her business fetched $4 million a year, and she was credited with having brought "class and status" to the French ready-made clothing industry.[3]
In 1964, she signed an exclusive contract with the New York City department store Henri Bendel, and also sold clothing through Macy's "Little Shop" boutiques.[1] Around this time, she launched the London-based hairstylist Vidal Sassoon in Paris by asking him to do the hair for a fashion show in the early 1960s. The models, who wore snugly fitting James Wedge hats, pulled off the hats at the end of the show to demonstrate how Sassoon's signature architectural cuts simply fell back into place, which astonished the French press and established Sassoon as a challenge to world-renowned French hairdressing.[2] She also gave a publicity boost to the Italian fashion house Missoni in 1965, when she and Ottavio Missoni collaborated on a knitwear collection.[4]
In addition to Missoni, Khanh also designed collections for similarly youth-oriented labels Krizia and Cacharel.[1] Khanh said she wanted to design clothes that anyone on the street could wear.[5]
A contemporary press piece in 1968 ranked Khanh and Bailly alongside Michèle Rosier as part of a "new race" of young designers, described as "stylists who work for ready-to-wear."[6] These French ready-to-wear designers were called créateurs.[5]
In 1971, Khanh and the London-based Ossie Clark were the first members of a new fashion group, Créateurs et Industriels, founded by the manufacturer Didier Grumbach as a means of bringing together innovative ready-to-wear designers from around the world (including Issey Miyake and Thierry Mugler) with manufacturers prepared to promote their originality. The group was eventually absorbed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.[5]
She founded her own company in 1971, Emmanuelle Khanh Paris, opened the first boutiques in her own name in 1977, and formed Emmanuelle Khanh International in 1987. The company closed in the late 1990s, and the Khanh brand was sold in 2007 to a Dutch conglomerate.[1]
Later life and death
Emmanuelle Khanh died of pancreatic cancer on 17 February 2017, aged 79.[1]
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l Grimes, William (28 February 2017). "Emmanuelle Khanh, Who Reinvigorated French Fashion, Dies at 79". The New York Times. Retrieved 2 March 2017.
- ^ a b Sassoon, Vidal. Vidal: The Autobiography. Pan Macmillan 00. ISBN 9780230753792.
- ^ "Power of Positive Patches". LIFE. Time Inc. 13 March 1964.
- ^ "Ottavio 'Tai' Missoni". The Telegraph. 9 May 2013. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
- ^ a b c Kennedy, Alicia; Stoehrer, Emily Banis; Calderin, Jay. Fashion Design, Referenced: A Visual Guide to the History, Language, and Practice of Fashion. Rockport Publishers. p. 66. ISBN 9781592536771.
- ^ "Les couturiers refont fortune". L'Express. 26 February 1968. p. 29.