Jacquard machine: Difference between revisions

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It is recorded that in 1855, a Frenchman<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://archive.org/details/irishlinentrade00smitgoog|title=The Irish linen trade hand-book and directory|publisher=W. H. Greer, 1876|accessdate=June 11, 2023|via=Internet Archive}}</ref> adapted the Jacquard mechanism to a system by which it could be worked by electro-magnets. There was significant interest, but trials were not successful, and the development was soon forgotten.
 
Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA [[Milan]] in 1983.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Bonas Textile Machinery NV - About Us |url=https://www.bonas.be/en/about-us |access-date= 8 October 2020|website=bonas.be}}</ref>{{efn|According to its operators (CEMATEX, {{lang|fr|Le Comité Européen des Constructeurs de Machines Textiles}}, an organisation comprising 9 national European textile machinery associations) ITMA is "the world’sworld's largest international textile and garment technology exhibition".<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.cematex.com/about-itma | title= About ITMA | website = Cematex.com | access-date= 8 October 2020}}</ref>}} Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends.<ref>{{Cite journal |first=R G|last=Panneerselvam|date=16 Jul 2020|title=Use of indigenous electronic jacquard in handloom for weaving fashionable silk sarees |url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/344151421|journal=Dogo Rangsang Research Journal|volume=10|pages=84|via=UGC Care Group}}</ref> That avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas.{{citation needed|date=October 2020}}
 
[[Linen]] products associated with Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics and damask bed linen. Jacquard weaving uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Jacquard weaving can also be used to create fabrics that have a [[Matelassé]] or a [[brocade]] pattern.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Jacquard Fabric — What Is a Jacquard? - Sailrite|url=https://www.sailrite.com/What-Is-a-Jacquard|access-date=2020-09-16|website=www.sailrite.com}}</ref> Research is under way{{when|date=October 2020}}{{update inline|date=October 2020}} to develop layered and shaped items as reinforcing components for structures made from [[composite material]]s.{{citation needed|date=October 2020}}