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{{Use British English|date=November 2023}}
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| footer = Various examples of jewellery throughout history
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'''Jewellery''' (or '''jewelry''' in [[American English]]) consists of decorative items worn for personal [[adornment]], such as [[brooch]]es, [[ring (jewellery)|rings]], [[necklace]]s, [[earring]]s, [[pendant]]s, [[bracelet]]s, and [[cufflink]]s. Jewellery may be attached to the body or the clothes. From a western perspective, the term is restricted to durable [[Ornament (art)|ornaments]], excluding flowers for example. For many centuries metal such as gold often combined with [[gemstone]]s, has been the normal material for jewellery, but other materials such as glass, shells and other plant materials may be used.▼
▲'''Jewellery''' (or '''jewelry''' in [[American English]]) consists of decorative items worn for personal [[adornment]]
Jewellery is one of the oldest types of [[archaeological artefact]] – with 100,000-year-old beads made from ''[[Nassarius]]'' shells thought to be the oldest known jewellery.<ref name="bbcnewsdiscovery">[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/5099104.stm Study reveals 'oldest jewellery'] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180612230733/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/5099104.stm |date=2018-06-12 }}, ''[[BBC News]]'', June 22, 2006.</ref> The basic forms of jewellery vary between cultures but are often extremely long-lived; in European cultures the most common forms of jewellery listed above have persisted since ancient times, while other forms such as adornments for the nose or ankle, important in other cultures, are much less common.▼
▲Jewellery is one of the oldest types of [[archaeological artefact]] – with 100,000-year-old beads made from ''[[Nassarius]]'' shells thought to be the oldest known jewellery.<ref
Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials. [[Gemstone]]s and similar materials such as [[amber]] and [[coral]], [[precious metal]]s, [[bead]]s, and [[seashell|shells]] have been widely used, and [[vitreous enamel|enamel]] has often been important. In most cultures jewellery can be understood as a status symbol, for its material properties, its patterns, or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from [[hairpin (fashion)|hairpins]] to [[toe ring]]s, and even [[genital jewellery]]. In modern European culture the amount worn by adult males is relatively low compared with other cultures and other periods in European culture.
The word ''jewellery'' itself is derived from the word ''jewel'', which was [[anglicisation|anglicised]] from the [[French language|Old French]] "''jouel''",<ref>[http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/jewel jewel. (n.d.).] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307235810/http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/jewel |date=2016-03-07 }} Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1). Retrieved on August 7, 2007, from the Dictionary.com website.</ref> and beyond that, to the [[Latin]] word "''jocale''", meaning plaything. In [[British English]], [[Indian English]], [[New Zealand English]], [[Hiberno-English]], [[Australian English]], and [[South African English]] it is spelled ''jewellery.'' At the same time, the spelling is ''jewelry'' in [[American English]].<ref name=americanbritspelling>see [[American and British English spelling differences#Doubled in British English|American and British spelling differences]]</ref> Both are used in [[Canadian English]]. However ''jewelry'' prevails by a two-to-one margin. In French and a few other European languages the equivalent term, ''joaillerie'', may also cover decorated metalwork in precious metal such as ''[[objets d'art]]'' and church items, not just objects worn on the person.▼
==
▲The word ''jewellery'' itself is derived from the word ''jewel'', which was [[anglicisation|anglicised]] from the [[French language|Old French]] "''jouel''",<ref>[http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/jewel jewel. (n.d.).] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307235810/http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/jewel |date=2016-03-07 }} Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1). Retrieved
[[File:Horloge, zgn. ‘boule de Genève’, met Zwitserse ankergang, objectnr KA 3620.jpg|thumb|right|A gold, [[diamonds]] and [[sapphires]] red [[guilloché]] enamel "[[Boule de Genève]]", a type of pendant [[watch]] used as an accessory for women. An example of an object which is functional, artistic/decorative, marker of social status or a symbol of personal meaning.]]▼
== Form and function ==
▲[[{{Not a typo|File:Horloge, zgn. ‘boule de Genève’, met Zwitserse ankergang, objectnr KA 3620.jpg}}<!-- Do not change the spelling of the file! -->|thumb|right|A gold, [[diamonds]] and [[sapphires]] red [[guilloché]] enamel "[[Boule de Genève]]", a type of pendant [[watch]] used as an accessory for women. An example of an object which is functional, artistic/decorative, marker of social status or a symbol of personal meaning.]]
Humans have used jewellery for a number of different reasons:
* functional, generally to fix clothing or hair in place.
* as a marker of [[social status]] and personal status, as with a [[wedding ring]]
* as a signifier of some form of affiliation, whether ethnic, religious or social
* to provide talismanic protection (in the form of [[amulet]]s)<ref
* as an artistic display
* as a carrier or symbol of personal meaning – such as love, mourning, a personal milestone or even luck
* generally considered as a good investment
* superstition<ref>{{cite book |chapter=Magical jewelry |editor1-last=Manutchehr-Danai |editor1-first=Mohsen |title=Dictionary of Gems and Gemology |location=Berlin |publisher=Springer |date=2009 |doi=10.1007/978-3-540-72816-0 |isbn=978-3-540-72795-8 |quote=magical jewelry [...] articles of jewelry worn for their magical belief, medicinal powers, or superstitions reasons.}}</ref>
Most{{quantify|date=April 2020}} cultures at some point have had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures store wedding [[dowry|dowries]] in the form of jewellery or make jewellery as a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good to buy and sell.<ref>{{Cite web |url=
Many items of jewellery, such as [[brooch]]es and [[buckle]]s, originated as purely functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their functional requirement diminished.<ref name="
Jewellery can symbolise group membership (as in the case, of the [[Christianity|Christian]] [[crucifix]] or the [[Judaism|Jewish]] [[Star of David]]) or status (as in the case of [[Livery collar|chains of office]], or the Western practice of [[marriage|married]] people wearing wedding rings).
Wearing of [[amulet]]s and [[devotional medal]]s to provide protection or to ward off evil is common in some cultures. These may take the form of symbols (such as the [[ankh]]), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the [[Hamsa|Khamsa]]), or [[glyph]]s (such as stylised versions of the [[Throne Verse]] in [[Islamic art]]).<ref>[[Morris, Desmond]]. ''Body Guards: Protective Amulets and Charms''. Element, 1999, {{ISBN|1862045720}}.</ref>
== Materials and methods ==
[[File:René lalique, pettine in corno, oro, smalti e brillanti, 1902 ca-V2.jpg|thumb|upright|Hair ornament, an [[Art Nouveau]] masterpiece; by [[René Lalique]]; {{circa|1902}}; gold, emeralds and diamonds; [[Musée d'Orsay]] (Paris)]]
In creating jewellery, [[gemstone]]s, [[coin]]s, or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into [[precious metal]]s. Platinum [[alloy]]s range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95% pure). The silver used in jewellery is usually [[sterling silver]], or 92.5% fine silver. In [[costume jewellery]], [[stainless steel]] findings are sometimes used.
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[[Silversmith]]s, [[goldsmith]]s, and [[Lapidary|lapidaries]] use methods including [[forging]], [[Casting (metalworking)|casting]], [[soldering]] or [[welding]], cutting, [[Lapidary|carving]] and "cold-joining" (using [[adhesive]]s, [[staple (fastener)|staples]] and [[rivet]]s to assemble parts).<ref>McCreight, Tim. ''Jewelry: Fundamentals of Metalsmithing''. Design Books International, 1997, {{ISBN|1880140292}}.</ref>
=== Diamonds ===
{{Main|Diamond}}
[[File:Diamonds.jpg|thumb|left|upright|[[
Diamonds were first mined in [[India]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://lgdl.gia.edu/pdfs/janse-table1.pdf |title=Home
The [[British crown jewels]] contain the [[Cullinan Diamond]], part of the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 [[Carat (
[[File:Wedding and Engagement Rings 2151px.jpg|thumb|upright|A diamond solitaire engagement ring]]
Now popular in [[engagement ring]]s, this usage dates back to the marriage of [[Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor|Maximilian I]] to [[Mary of Burgundy]] in 1477.<ref
A popular style is the diamond solitaire, which features a single large diamond mounted prominently.<ref>{{cite web |title=What is a Solitaire Setting |url=https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/what-is-a-diamond-solitaire-setting/ |website=GIA.edu |date=6 June 2012 |publisher=Gemological Institute of America |access-date=21 December 2019 |archive-date=21 December 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191221034505/https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/what-is-a-diamond-solitaire-setting/ |url-status=live
===
{{Main|Synthetic diamond}}
Synthetic diamonds, also referred to as lab-grown diamonds, are created using advanced technological processes such as High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) and [[Chemical vapor deposition|Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD)]]. These methods result in diamonds that are chemically and physically identical to [[Diamond|natural diamonds]], offering the same brilliance and durability.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2009-05-01 |title=hpht - high pressure high temperature - International Diamond Laboratories diamond grading |url=http://www.diamondlab.org/80-hpht_synthesis.htm |access-date=2024-11-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090501065610/http://www.diamondlab.org/80-hpht_synthesis.htm |archive-date=2009-05-01 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last1=Spear |first1=Karl E. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RR5HF25DB7UC&q=synthetic+diamond |title=Synthetic Diamond: Emerging CVD Science and Technology |last2=Dismukes |first2=John P. |date=1994-04-04 |publisher=John Wiley & Sons |isbn=978-0-471-53589-8 |language=en}}</ref>
The popularity of synthetic diamonds in the jewellery market has increased significantly due to several factors. Their typically lower price compared to natural diamonds makes them an appealing choice for many consumers. Additionally, the ethical implications of synthetic diamonds have garnered attention, particularly their potential to eliminate the risks associated with [[Conflict diamond|conflict diamonds]], which are mined in war zones and often used to finance armed conflict.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Pearl |first=Diana |date=2023-10-26 |title=How 2023 became the year of the lab-grown diamond |url=https://edition.cnn.com/style/lab-grown-diamonds-popularity-2023-bof/index.html |access-date=2024-11-09 |website=[[CNN]] |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Yazdinian |first=Nouriel Gino |title=What Are Lab Diamonds? The Modern Gemstone Revolution |url=https://nyelizabeth.com/articles/f/what-are-lab-diamonds-the-modern-gemstone-revolution#:~:text=Emergence%20In%20Fashion%20And%20Engagement%20Rings |website=NY Elizabeth}}</ref>
From an environmental perspective, the production of synthetic diamonds generally has a smaller ecological footprint than traditional [[diamond mining]], which can result in extensive land degradation and habitat destruction. While lab-grown diamonds do require energy for their production, many companies are actively adopting renewable energy sources to mitigate their environmental impact.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Khan |first=Yusuf |title=Diamonds Made With Solar Power Are Offering Fiancées Ethical Fashion |url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/diamonds-made-with-solar-power-are-offering-fiancees-ethical-fashion-475d1c7b |website=[[The Wall Street Journal]]|date=10 January 2024 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Sarnoff |first=Leah |title=Are lab-grown diamonds as sustainable as advertised? |url=https://abcnews.go.com/Business/lab-grown-diamonds-sustainable-advertised/story?id=109046877 |access-date=2024-11-09 |website=[[ABC News (United States)|ABC News]] |language=en}}</ref>
As consumer preferences evolve, particularly among younger generations who prioritize sustainability, synthetic diamonds are increasingly seen as a responsible and modern alternative to mined diamonds. Retailers are responding to this trend by expanding their offerings of lab-grown diamond jewellery, further solidifying their place in the market.
=== Other gemstones ===
{{Main|Gemstone}}
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Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:
;[[Amber]]: Amber, an ancient [[organic gemstone]], is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The stone must be at least one million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120
▲;[[Amber]]: Amber, an ancient [[organic gemstone]], is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The stone must be at least one million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120 million years old.
;[[Amethyst]]: Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It is treasured for its purple hue, which can range in tone from light to dark.
;[[Emerald]]: Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and sapphires) and are known for their fine green to bluish-green colour. They have been treasured throughout history, and some historians report that the Egyptians mined emeralds as early as 3500 BC.
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Some gems, for example, [[amethyst]], have become less valued as methods of extracting and importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, such as [[cubic zirconia]], which can be used in place of diamonds.<ref>Nassau, K. (1980). ''Gems made by man''. {{ISBN|0801967732}}.</ref>
=== Metal finishes ===
[[File:A002.jpg|thumb|right|An example of gold
For [[platinum]], [[gold]], and [[silver]] jewellery, there are many techniques to create finishes. The most common are high-polish, satin/matte, [[brushed metal|brushed]], and hammered. High-polished jewellery is the most common and gives the metal a highly reflective, shiny look. Satin, or matte finish reduces the shine and reflection of the jewellery, and this is commonly used to accentuate gemstones such as [[diamond]]s. Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look and are created by brushing a material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving "brush strokes". Hammered finishes are typically created using a rounded steel hammer and hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy [[Surface texture|texture]].
Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired colour. Sterling silver jewellery may be plated with a thin layer of 0.999 fine silver (a process known as flashing) or plated with rhodium or gold. Base metal costume jewellery may also be plated with silver, gold, or rhodium for a more attractive finish.
== Impact on society ==
Jewellery has been used to denote status. In ancient Rome, only certain ranks could wear rings and<ref
Cultural dictates have also played a significant role. For example, the wearing of earrings by Western men was considered effeminate in the 19th century and early 20th century. More recently, the display of body
Conversely, the
Some religions have specific rules or traditions surrounding
== History ==
The history of jewellery is long and goes back many years, with many different uses among different cultures. It has endured for thousands of years and has provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked.
=== Prehistory ===
The earliest known Jewellery was actually created not by modern humans (''Homo sapiens'') but by [[Neanderthal]] living in Europe. Specifically, perforated beads made from small
Later, the [[European early modern humans]] had crude [[necklace]]s and [[bracelet]]s of bone, teeth, berries, and stone hung on pieces of string or animal [[sinew]], or pieces of carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery had shell or [[mother-of-pearl]] pieces. A decorated engraved pendant (the [[Star Carr Pendant]]) dating to around 11,000 BC, and thought to be the oldest Mesolithic art in Britain, was found at the site of [[Star Carr]] in [[North Yorkshire]] in 2015.<ref>{{cite journal |
▲The earliest known Jewellery was actually created not by humans (''Homo sapiens'') but by [[Neanderthal]] living in Europe. Specifically, perforated beads made from small sea shells have been found dating to 115,000 years ago in the Cueva de los Aviones, a cave along the southeast coast of Spain. Later in Kenya, at [[Enkapune Ya Muto]], beads made from perforated [[ostrich]] egg shells have been dated to more than 40,000 years ago. In Russia, a stone bracelet and marble ring are attributed to a similar age.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.archaeology.org/news//3270-150507-siberia-denisovan-bracelet|title=Stone Bracelet May Have Been Made by Denisovans|year=2015|quote=A stone bracelet unearthed in Denisova Cave in the Altai Mountains of Siberia in 2008 is being called the oldest-known jewelry of its kind. Anatoly Derevyanko, director of the Russian Academy of Sciences' Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography, and the research team believe that the cave's Denisovan layers were uncontaminated by human activity from a later period. The soil around the two fragments of the jewelry piece was dated with oxygen isotopic analysis to 40,000 years ago. "In the same layer, where we found a Denisovan bone, were found interesting things; until then it was believed these were the hallmark of the emergence of Homo sapiens. First of all, there were symbolic items, such as jewelry, including the stone bracelet as well as a ring, carved out of marble," Derevyanko told The Siberian Times|access-date=2015-05-10|archive-date=2018-09-25|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180925215947/https://www.archaeology.org/news//3270-150507-siberia-denisovan-bracelet|url-status=live}}</ref>
Around seven
▲A decorated engraved pendant (the [[Star Carr Pendant]]) dating to around 11,000 BC, and thought to be the oldest Mesolithic art in Britain, was found at the site of [[Star Carr]] in [[North Yorkshire]] in 2015.<ref>{{cite journal | doi = 10.11141/ia.40.8 | issue=40 | title=A Unique Engraved Shale Pendant from the Site of Star Carr: the oldest Mesolithic art in Britain | year=2016 | journal=Internet Archaeology | last1 = Milner | first1 = Nicky| url=http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/100091/1/Internet_Arch_Pendant_paper_Milneretal.revisedmanuscript.pdf | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180722014234/http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/100091/1/Internet_Arch_Pendant_paper_Milneretal.revisedmanuscript.pdf | archive-date=2018-07-22 | doi-access=free }}</ref> In southern [[Russia]], carved bracelets made of [[mammoth]] [[tusk]] have been found. The [[Venus of Hohle Fels]] features a perforation at the top, showing that it was intended to be worn as a [[pendant]].
▲Around seven-thousand years ago, the first sign of [[copper]] jewellery was seen.<ref name="kingfisherhistory" /> In October 2012 the Museum of Ancient History in Lower Austria revealed that they had found a grave of a female jewellery worker – forcing archaeologists to take a fresh look at prehistoric gender roles after it appeared to be that of a female fine metal worker – a profession that was previously thought to have been carried out exclusively by men.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://austrianindependent.com/news/General_News/2012-10-03/12320/Cavewoman_jeweller_rewrites_gender_history|title=Cavewoman jeweller rewrites gender history|author=The Austrian Independent News and Pictures|work=austrianindependent.com|access-date=2012-10-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121007223640/http://austrianindependent.com/news/General_News/2012-10-03/12320/Cavewoman_jeweller_rewrites_gender_history|archive-date=2012-10-07|url-status=dead}}</ref>
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=== Africa ===
==== Egypt ====
{{
The first signs of established jewellery making in [[Ancient Egypt]] was around 3,000–5,000 years ago.<ref name="
In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured [[glass]], along with semi-precious gems. The colour of the jewellery had significance. Green, for example, symbolised fertility. [[Lapis lazuli]] and silver had to be imported from beyond the country's borders.
Egyptian designs were most common in [[Phoenicia]]n jewellery. Also, ancient [[Turkey|Turkish]] designs found in [[Persia]]n jewellery suggest that trade between the Middle East and [[Europe]] was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.<ref name="
<gallery widths="170px" heights="170px">
Tutankhamun pendant with Wadjet.jpg|Pectoral (chest jewellery) of [[Tutankhamun]]; 1336–1327 BC (Reign of Tutankhamun); gold, silver and meteoric glass; height: 14.9 cm (5.9 in); [[Egyptian Museum]] (Cairo)
Clevelandart 1989.39.jpg|Pendant; {{circa|1069 BC}}; gold and turquoise; overall: {{convert|5.1x2.3|cm}}; [[Cleveland Museum of Art]] ([[Cleveland]])
Anillo de Sheshonq (46627183381).jpg|Signet ring; 664–525 BC; gold; diameter: {{convert|3x3.4|cm}}; [[British Museum]] (London)
Pectoral and Necklace of Sithathoryunet with the Name of Senwosret II MET DT531.jpg|Pectoral and necklace of Princess [[Sithathoriunet]]; 1887–1813 BC; gold, [[carnelian]], [[lapis lazuli]], [[turquoise]], [[garnet]] and [[feldspar]]; height of the pectoral: {{convert|4.5|cm}}; [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] (New York City)
</gallery>
[[File:
==== Maghreb countries in North Africa ====
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[[Jewellery of the Berber cultures]] is a style of traditional jewellery worn by women and girls in the rural areas of the [[Maghreb]] region in [[North Africa]] inhabited by indigenous [[Berbers|Berber people]] (in [[Berber languages|Berber language]]: ''Amazigh, Imazighen'', pl). Following long social and cultural traditions, the [[silversmith]]s of different ethnic Berber groups of Morocco, Algeria and neighbouring countries created intricate jewellery to adorn their women and that formed part of their ethnic [[Identity (social science)|identity]]. Traditional Berber jewellery was usually made of silver and includes elaborate brooches made of triangular plates and pins ([[Fibula (brooch)|fibula]]), originally used as clasps for garments, but also necklaces, bracelets, earrings and similar items.
Another major type is the so-called [[Hamsa|''khmissa'']] (local pronunciation of the [[Arabic language|Arabic]] word "khamsa" for the number "five"), which is called ''afus'' in the [[Berber languages|Berber language]] (''Tamazight)''. This form represents the five fingers of the hand and is traditionally believed both by [[Muslims]] as well as [[Jews|Jewish people]] to protect against the [[
=== Europe and the Middle East ===
====The first gold jewellery from Bulgaria====▼
{{main|Varna Necropolis}}▼
▲==== The first gold jewellery from Bulgaria ====
[[File:Grave offerings.jpg|thumb|Oldest golden artifacts in the world from Varna necropolis – grave offerings on exposition in [[Varna Archaeological Museum|Varna Museum]]]]
The oldest gold
==== Mesopotamia ====▼
▲The oldest gold jewelry in the world is dating from 4,600 BC to 4,200 BC and was discovered in Europe, at the site of [[Varna Necropolis]], near the [[Black Sea]] coast in [[Bulgaria]].<ref>[https://books.google.com/books?id=RnE9Fa4pbn0C&dq=varna+necropolis+oldest&pg=PA290] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221101113823/https://books.google.com/books?id=RnE9Fa4pbn0C&pg=PA290&dq=varna+necropolis+oldest&hl=en#v=onepage&q=varna%20necropolis%20oldest&f=false|date=2022-11-01}} Gems and Gemstones: Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World, By Lance Grande</ref><ref>(https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/varna-bulgaria-gold-graves-social-hierarchy-prehistoric-archaelogy-smithsonian-journeys-travel-quarterly-180958733/ {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230718083237/https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/varna-bulgaria-gold-graves-social-hierarchy-prehistoric-archaelogy-smithsonian-journeys-travel-quarterly-180958733/ |date=2023-07-18 }})</ref><ref>(https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/oldest-gold-object-unearthed-bulgaria-180960093/ {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190928002452/https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/oldest-gold-object-unearthed-bulgaria-180960093/ |date=2019-09-28 }})</ref>
▲====Mesopotamia====
[[File:Headdress MET DP226592 (cropped).jpg|thumb|left|Headdress decorated with golden leaves; 2600–2400 BC; gold, lapis lazuli and [[carnelian]]; length: {{convert|38.5|cm}}; from the Royal Cemetery at Ur; [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] (New York City)]]
By approximately 5,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in the cities of [[Mesopotamia]]. The most significant archaeological evidence comes from the [[Royal Cemetery of Ur]], where hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that of [[Puabi]] contained a multitude of artefacts in gold, silver, and semi-precious stones, such as [[lapis lazuli]] crowns embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. In [[Assyria]], men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including [[amulet]]s, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and [[cylinder seal]]s.<ref>Nemet-Nejat, ''Daily Life'', 155–157.</ref>
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==== Greece ====
[[File:Archaeological museum, Athens (4976534238).jpg|thumb|upright|Openwork hairnet; 300–200 BC; gold; diameter: {{convert|23|cm}}, diameter of the medallion: {{convert|11.4|cm}}; unknown provenance (said to be from [[Karpenissi]] (Greece)); [[National Archaeological Museum, Athens|National Archaeological Museum]] ([[Athens]])<ref>{{cite book |last1=Smith |first1=David Michael |title=Ancient Greece Pocket Museum |date=2017 |publisher=Thames and Hudson |isbn=978-
The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1600 BC, although beads shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in earlier times. Around 1500 BC, the main techniques of working gold in Greece included casting, twisting bars, and making wire.<ref>{{cite book |title=Jewellery Through 7000 Years |url=https://archive.org/details/jewellerythrough0000brit |url-access=registration |year=1976 |publisher=British Museum Publications |isbn=978-
Jewellery in [[Greece]] was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by women to show their wealth, social status, and beauty. The jewellery was often supposed to give the wearer protection from the "[[
They worked two styles of pieces: cast pieces and pieces hammered out of sheet metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered. It was made by casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. The two
The Greeks took much of their designs from outer origins, such as Asia, when [[Alexander the Great]] conquered part of it. In earlier designs, other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not to say that indigenous design did not thrive. Numerous [[polychrome]] butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been found near [[Olbia]], with only one example ever found anywhere else.<ref>{{cite journal |doi=10.1163/1570057042596388 |title=Polychrome Necklaces from the Late Hellenistic Period |journal=Ancient Civilizations from Scythia to Siberia |volume=10 |issue=3 |pages=199–257 |year=2004 |last1=Treister |first1=Mikhail}}</ref>
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File:Bee pendant, gold ornament, Chrysolakos necropolis near Malia, 1800-1700 BC, AMH, 144879.jpg|The ''Bee Pendant'', an iconic Minoan jewel; 1700–1600 BC; gold; width: {{convert|4.6|cm}}; from Chrysolakkos (gold pit) complex at [[Malia (archaeological site)|Malia]]; [[Archaeological Museum of Heraklion]] ([[Heraklion]], Greece)<ref>{{cite book |last1=Smith |first1=David Michael |title=Ancient Greece Pocket Museum |date=2017 |publisher=Thames and Hudson |isbn=978-
File:Gilt terracotta ornaments from a necklace MET DP145718.jpg|Mycenaean necklace; 1400–1050 BC; gilded terracotta; diameter of the rosettes: {{convert|2.7|cm}}, with variations of circa {{convert|0.1|cm}}, length of the pendant {{convert|3.7|cm}}; [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] (New York City)
File:Gold ring set with an emerald MET DT283.jpg|The Ganymede Jewellery; circa 300 BC; gold; various dimensions; provenance unknown (said to have been found near Thessaloniki, Greece); Metropolitan Museum of Art
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==== Etruscan ====
{{
Gorgons, pomegranates, acorns, lotus flowers and palms were a clear indicator of Greek influence in Etruscan jewellery. The modelling of heads, which was a typical practice from the Greek severe period, was a technique that spread throughout the Etruscan territory. An even clearer evidence of new influences is the shape introduced in the Orientalizing era: The Bullae. A pear
Much of the jewellery found was not ''worn'' by Etruscans, but were made to accompany them in the after world. Most, if not all, techniques of Etruscan goldsmiths were not invented by them as they are dated to the third millennium BC.
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==== Rome ====
[[{{Not a typo|File:Louvre-Lens - L'Europe de Rubens - 026 - Le Grand Camée de France (Gemma Tiberiana), « L'Apothéose de Germanicus ».JPG}}<!-- Do not change the spelling of the file! -->|thumb|left|upright|The ''[[Great Cameo of France]]''; second quarter of the 1st century AD; five-layered [[sardonyx]]; {{convert|31x26.5|cm}}; [[Cabinet des médailles]] (Paris)]]
Although jewellery work was abundantly diverse in earlier times, especially among the
Like the Greeks, often the purpose of Roman jewellery was to ward off the "
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==== Middle Ages ====
[[File:Officina costantinopolitana, tesoro di asyut (egitto), V-VI sec ca. 01 collier.JPG|thumb|Byzantine collier; late 6th–7th century; gold, [[emerald]]s, [[sapphire]]s, [[amethyst]]s and [[pearl]]s; diameter: {{convert|23|cm}}; from a [[Constantinopol]]itan workshop; [[Antikensammlung Berlin]] ([[Berlin]], Germany)]]
Post-Roman Europe continued to develop jewellery making skills. The [[Celts]] and [[Merovingians]] in particular are noted for their jewellery, which in terms of quality matched or exceeded that of the [[Byzantine Empire]]. Clothing fasteners, amulets, and, to a lesser extent, [[signet ring]]s, are the most common artefacts known to us. A particularly striking [[Celtic brooch|Celtic example]] is the [[Tara Brooch]].<ref>Somerville, Orna. "Kite-Shaped Brooches". ''Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland'', volume 123, 1993. pp. 59–101. {{JSTOR|25509045}}</ref> The [[Torc]] was common throughout Europe as a symbol of status and power. By the 8th century, jewelled weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery (with the exception of signet rings) seemed to become the domain of women. Grave goods found in a 6th–7th century burial near [[Chalon-sur-Saône]] are illustrative. A young girl was buried with: 2 silver [[Fibula (brooch)|fibulae]], a necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earrings, a pair of hair-pins, comb, and buckle.<ref>Duby Georges and Philippe Ariès, eds. ''A History of Private Life'' Vol 1 – From Pagan Rome to Byzantium. Harvard, 1987. p 506</ref> The [[Celtic art|Celts]] specialised in continuous patterns and designs, while Merovingian designs are best known for stylised animal figures.<ref>Duby, throughout.</ref> They were not the only groups known for high quality work. Note the Visigoth work shown here, and the numerous decorative objects found at the [[Anglo-Saxons|Anglo-Saxon]] [[Ship burial]] at [[Sutton Hoo]] [[Suffolk]], [[England]] are a particularly well-known example.<ref name="
The Eastern successor of the Roman Empire, the [[Byzantine Empire]], continued many of the methods of the Romans, though religious themes came to predominate. Unlike the Romans, the Franks, and the Celts, however, Byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather than solid gold, and more emphasis was placed on stones and gems. As in the West, Byzantine jewellery was worn by wealthier females, with male jewellery apparently restricted to signet rings. Woman's jewellery had some peculiarities like [[kolt]]s that decorated [[headband]].
Like other contemporary cultures, jewellery was commonly buried with its owner.<ref
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==== Renaissance ====
[[File:Cameo Claudius Cdm Paris Chab220.jpg|thumb|left|upright|[[cameo (carving)|Cameo]]; 16th century; [[sardonyx]]; [[Cabinet des Médailles]] (Paris)]]
The [[Renaissance]] and exploration both had significant impacts on the development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration and trade led to increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones as well as exposure to the art of other cultures. Whereas prior to this the working of gold and precious metal had been at the forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing dominance of gemstones and their settings. An example of this is the [[Cheapside Hoard]], the stock of a jeweller hidden in [[London]] during the [[Commonwealth of England|Commonwealth]] period and not found again until 1912. It contained Colombian [[emerald]], [[topaz]], [[amazonite]] from Brazil, [[spinel]], [[iolite]], and [[chrysoberyl]] from Sri Lanka, [[ruby]] from India, Afghan [[lapis lazuli]], [[Iran|Persian]] [[turquoise]], Red Sea [[peridot]], as well as Bohemian and Hungarian [[opal]], [[garnet]], and [[amethyst]]. Large stones were frequently set in box-bezels on enamelled rings.<ref>Scarisbrick, Diana. ''Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power, and Affection''. New York: Abrams, 1993. {{ISBN|0810937751}} p. 77.</ref> Notable among merchants of the period was [[Jean-Baptiste Tavernier]], who brought the precursor stone of the [[Hope Diamond]] to France in the 1660s.
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{{clear}}
==== Romanticism ====
[[File:Russia, 19th century - Earring - 1916.546.1 - Cleveland Museum of Art.jpg|thumb|upright|Russian earring; 19th century; silver, enamel and red glass beads; overall: {{convert|6.4x2.6|cm}}; [[Cleveland Museum of Art]] ([[Cleveland]])]]
Starting in the late 18th century, [[Romanticism]] had a profound impact on the development of western jewellery. Perhaps the most significant influences were the public's fascination with the treasures being discovered through the birth of modern [[archaeology]] and a fascination with Medieval and Renaissance art. Changing social conditions and the onset of the [[Industrial Revolution]] also led to growth of a middle class that wanted and could afford jewellery. As a result, the use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, and stone substitutes led to the development of paste or [[costume jewellery]]. Distinguished goldsmiths continued to flourish, however, as wealthier patrons sought to ensure that what they wore still stood apart from the jewellery of the masses, not only through use of precious metals and stones but also though superior artistic and technical work. One such artist was the French goldsmith [[François-Désiré Froment-Meurice]]. A category unique to this period and quite appropriate to the philosophy of romanticism was mourning jewellery. It originated in England, where [[Queen Victoria]] was often seen wearing [[Jet (lignite)|jet]] jewellery after the death of [[Albert, Prince Consort|Prince Albert]], and it allowed the wearer to continue wearing jewellery while expressing a state of mourning at the death of a loved one.<ref name
In the United States, this period saw the founding in 1837 of [[Tiffany & Co.]] by [[Charles Lewis Tiffany]]. Tiffany's put the United States on the world map in terms of jewellery and gained fame creating dazzling commissions for people such as the wife of [[Abraham Lincoln]]. Later, it would gain popular notoriety as the setting of the film [[Breakfast at Tiffany's (film)|Breakfast at Tiffany's]]. In France, [[Pierre Cartier (jeweler)|Pierre Cartier]] founded [[Cartier SA]] in 1847, while 1884 saw the founding of [[Bulgari]] in Italy. The modern production studio had been born and was a step away from the former dominance of individual craftsmen and [[patronage]].
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This period also saw the first major collaboration between East and West. Collaboration in [[Pforzheim]] between German and Japanese artists led to [[Shakudō]] plaques set into [[Filigree]] frames being created by the Stoeffler firm in 1885).<ref>[[Ursula Ilse-Neuman|Ilse-Neuman, Ursula]]. Book review ''Schmuck/Jewellery 1840–1940: Highlights from the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim.'' ''Metalsmith''. Fall2006, Vol. 26 Issue 3, pp. 12–13</ref> Perhaps the grand finalé – and an appropriate transition to the following period – were the masterful creations of the Russian artist [[Peter Carl Fabergé]], working for the Imperial Russian court, whose [[Fabergé egg]]s and jewellery pieces are still considered as the epitome of the goldsmith's art.
==== 18th century/Romanticism/Renaissance ====
Many whimsical fashions were introduced in the extravagant eighteenth century. Cameos that were used in connection with jewellery were the attractive trinkets along with many of the small objects such as brooches, ear-rings and scarf-pins. Some of the necklets were made of several pieces joined with the gold chains were in and bracelets were also made sometimes to match the necklet and the brooch. At the end of the Century the jewellery with cut steel intermixed with large crystals was introduced by an Englishman, Matthew Boulton of Birmingham.<ref
==== Art Nouveau ====
[[File:René lalique, pettorale con pavoni, oro, smalti, opali e diamanti, 1898-1900 ca.jpg|thumb|250px|Breastplate with a peacocks; [[René Lalique]]; {{circa|1898}}–1900; gold, [[Vitreous enamel|
In the 1890s, jewellers began to explore the potential of the growing [[Art Nouveau]] style and the closely related German [[Jugendstil]], British (and to some extent American) [[Arts and Crafts Movement]], Catalan [[Modernisme]], Austro-Hungarian [[Sezession]], Italian "Liberty", etc.
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René lalique, pettorale libellula, in oro, smalti, crisoprazio, calcedonio, pietre lunari e diamanti, 1897-98 ca. 01.jpg|The ''Dragonfly brooch''; by [[René Lalique]]; {{circa|1897}}–1898; gold, [[vitreous enamel]], [[chrysoprase]], [[chalcedony]], [[moonstone (gemstone)|moonstone]] and diamond; height: {{convert|23|cm}}, width: {{convert|26.5|cm}}; [[Calouste Gulbenkian Museum]] ([[
Necklace MET DT1423.jpg|Necklace; by René Lalique; 1897–1899; gold, [[Vitreous enamel|enamel]], [[opal]]s and [[amethyst]]s; overall diameter: {{convert|24.1|cm}}; [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] (New York City)
René lalique, pettorale serpenti, oro e smalti, 1898-99 ca.jpg|The ''Snakes brooch''; by René Lalique; gold and enamel; Calouste Gulbenkian Museum
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==== Art Deco ====
[[File:Cartier paris, braccialetto, 1937, platino, oro bianco, argento, diamanti, lapislazzuli, turchesi (ginevra, coll. cartier).jpg|thumb|Bracelet in platinum, white gold, silver, diamonds, lapislazuli, turquoise, by Cartier Paris, 1937]]
Growing political tensions, the after-effects of the war, and a reaction against the perceived decadence of the turn of the 20th century led to simpler forms, combined with more effective manufacturing for mass production of high-quality jewellery. Covering the period of the 1920s and 1930s, the style has become popularly known as [[Art Deco]]. [[Walter Gropius]] and the German [[Bauhaus]] movement, with their philosophy of "no barriers between artists and craftsmen" led to some interesting and stylistically simplified forms. Modern materials were also introduced: plastics and aluminium were first used in jewellery, and of note are the chromed pendants of Russian-born Bauhaus master [[Naum Slutzky]]. Technical mastery became as valued as the material itself. In the West, this period saw the reinvention of granulation by the German [[Elizabeth Treskow]], although development of the re-invention has continued into the 1990s. It is based on the basic shapes.
=== Asia ===
In Asia, the [[Indian subcontinent]] has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making anywhere, Asia was the first place where these jewellery were made in large numbers for the royals<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.thebetterindia.com/86147/history-indian-jewellery-jewels-traditions/ |access-date=2023-11-19 |title=Maharajas, Myths and Mysteries: The Fascinating History of India's Jewels and Jewellery |first=Sanchari |last=Pal |date=9 February 2017 |archive-date=2023-11-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231119180252/https://www.thebetterindia.com/86147/history-indian-jewellery-jewels-traditions/ |url-status=live}}</ref> with a history of over 5,000 years.<ref name="Untracht
==== China ====
The Chinese used [[silver]] in their jewellery more than gold. Blue [[kingfisher]] [[feather]]s were tied onto early Chinese jewellery and later, blue gems and glass were incorporated into designs. However, [[jade]] was preferred over any other stone. The Chinese revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as its hardness, durability, and beauty.<ref name="
In China, the most uncommon piece of jewellery is the earring, which was worn neither by men nor women.<ref>{{Cite news |title=No Earrings, Tattoos or Cleavage: Inside China's War on Fun |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/27/business/china-war-on-fun-earrings-tattoos.html |access-date=2022-05-21 |website=
The Chinese often placed their jewellery in their graves. Most Chinese graves found by [[archaeologist]]s contain decorative jewellery.<ref name="
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Clevelandart 1985.75.jpg|Fluted ring with a dragon head (huan); circa 475 BC; jade ([[nephrite]]); overall: {{convert|9.1|cm}}; [[Cleveland Museum of Art]] ([[Cleveland]])
Jade ornament with grape design.jpg|Ornament with flowers and grapes design; 1115–1234; jade; [[Shanghai Museum]] (China)
Chinese Xin Shape Jewelry from Ming Dynasty Tombs.jpg|Xin 心 shaped
MET 15 95 181j O1.jpg|Hat ornament; 18th–19th century; gold, gilded metal, kingfisher feathers, glass and semiprecious stones; various dimensions; [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] (New York City)
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==== Indian subcontinent ====
{{anchor | India | Indian }}
[[File:Necklace with Shiva's Family LACMA M.85.140.jpg|thumb|upright|Necklace with Shiva's family; late 19th century; gold inlaid with rubies, a diamond [[Rudraksha]] beads (elaeo carpus seeds) and silver back plate on clasp; overall: {{convert|38.1|cm}}; [[Los Angeles County Museum of Art]] ([[Los Angeles]], US)]]
The [[Indian subcontinent]] has a long jewellery history, which has gone through various changes via cultural influence and politics for more than 5,000–8,000 years.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} Because India had an abundant supply of precious metals and gems, it prospered financially through export and exchange with other countries. While European traditions were heavily influenced by waxing and waning empires, India enjoyed a continuous development of art forms for some 5,000 years.<ref name="Untracht
Jewellery in the [[Indus Valley Civilization]] was worn predominantly by females, who wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on their wrists. They were often shaped like doughnuts and painted black. Over time, clay bangles were discarded for more durable ones. In present-day [[India]], bangles are made out of [[metal]] or glass.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://tamilnadu.com/fashion/bangles.html |title=Bangles |publisher=Tamilnadu.com |date=4 March 2013 |access-date=14 March 2013 |archive-date=18 October 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131018071805/http://tamilnadu.com/fashion/bangles.html |url-status=dead}}</ref> Other pieces that women frequently wore were thin bands of gold that would be worn on the forehead, earrings, primitive brooches, [[choker]]s, and gold rings. Although women wore jewellery the most, some men in the Indus Valley wore beads. Small beads were often crafted to be placed in men and women's hair. The beads were about one millimetre long.{{Cn|date=December 2024}}
A female skeleton (presently on display at the National Museum, New Delhi, India) wears a carlinean bangle (bracelet) on her left hand. ''Kada'' is a special kind of bracelet and is widely popular in Indian culture. They symbolize animals such as peacock, elephant, etc.<ref>{{cite news |title=When showstopper Juhi walked down the ramp |url=
According to Hindu belief, gold and silver are considered as sacred metals.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} Gold is symbolic of the warm sun, while silver suggests the cool moon. Both are the quintessential metals of Indian jewellery. Pure gold does not oxidise or corrode with time, which is why Hindu tradition associates gold with immortality. Gold imagery occurs frequently in ancient Indian literature. In the Vedic Hindu belief of cosmological creation, the source of physical and spiritual human life originated in and evolved from a golden womb (hiranyagarbha) or egg (hiranyanda), a metaphor of the sun, whose light rises from the primordial waters.<ref>{{cite book |last=Untracht |first=Oppi |title=Traditional Jewelry of India |year=1997 |isbn=978-
Jewellery had great status with India's royalty; it was so powerful that they established laws, limiting wearing of jewellery to royalty. Only royalty and a few others to whom they granted permission could wear gold ornaments on their feet. This would normally be considered breaking the appreciation of the sacred metals. Even though the majority of the Indian population wore jewellery, [[Maharaja]]s and people related to royalty had a deeper connection with jewellery.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} The [[Maharaja]]'s role was so important that the Hindu philosophers identified him as central to the smooth working of the world. He was considered as a divine being, a deity in human form, whose duty was to uphold and protect dharma, the moral order of the universe.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Prior |first1=Katherine |last2=Adamson |first2=John |title=Maharajas' Jewels |year=2000 |publisher=Vendome Press |location=New York |isbn=978-
[[Navaratna]] (nine gems) is a powerful jewel frequently worn by a [[Maharaja]] (Emperor). It is an amulet, which comprises diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, cat's eye, coral, and hyacinth (red zircon). Each of these stones is associated with a celestial deity,
[[India]] was the first country to mine [[diamond]]s, with some mines dating back to 296 BC.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} India traded the diamonds, realising their valuable qualities. Historically, diamonds have been given to retain or regain a lover's or ruler's lost favour, as symbols of tribute, or as an expression of fidelity in exchange for concessions and protection.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} Mughal emperors and Kings used the diamonds as a means of assuring their immortality by having their names and worldly titles inscribed upon them. Moreover, it has played and continues to play a pivotal role in Indian social, political, economic, and religious event, as it often has done elsewhere.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} In Indian history, diamonds have been used to acquire military equipment, finance wars, foment revolutions, and tempt defections. They have contributed to the abdication or the decapitation of potentates. They have been used to murder a representative of the dominating power by lacing his food with crushed diamond.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} Indian diamonds have been used as security to finance large loans needed to buttress politically or economically tottering regimes. Victorious military heroes have been honoured by rewards of diamonds and also have been used as ransom payment for release from imprisonment or abduction.<ref>{{cite book |last=Prior |first=Katherine |title=Traditional Jewelry of India |year=2000 |publisher=Vendome |location=New York |pages=312}}</ref>
Today, many jewellery designs and traditions are used, and jewellery is commonplace in Indian ceremonies and [[Indian wedding|weddings]].<ref name="
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=== North and South America ===
[[File:Ear Ornament, Winged Runner MET DP-10734-01.jpg|left|thumb|[[Moche culture|Moche]] ear ornaments depicting winged runners; 3rd–7th century; gold, turquoise, [[sodalite]] and shell; diameter: 8 cm; [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] (New York City)]]▼
{{Main|Native American jewelry}}
▲[[File:Ear Ornament, Winged Runner MET DP-10734-01.jpg|left|thumb|[[Moche culture|Moche]] ear ornaments depicting winged runners; 3rd–7th century; gold, turquoise, [[sodalite]] and shell; diameter: 8
Jewellery making started in the Americas with the arrival of [[Paleo-Indians]] more than 15,000 years ago. This jewellery would have been made from stone, shell, bone and other perishable materials. The American continent is home to 2 [[cradles of civilization]]: in the [[Andean civilization|Andes]] and [[Mesoamerica]]. Cultures in these regions developed more complex methods of jewellery creation. The Andes is the origin of [[hot working]] [[metallurgy]] in the Americas and consequently the region has the longest history of work in materials such as silver, platinum and gold. Metallurgy began in Mesoamerica during the Termainal Classic era, likely arriving from direct maritime trade with the Andean cultures. As a result, western Mesoamerican cultures, such as the [[Tarascan State|Tarascans]] and [[Mixtec Culture|Mixtecs]], had more complex use of the technology.
With the [[Moche culture|Moche]] culture, goldwork flourished. The pieces are no longer simple metalwork, but are now masterful examples of jewellery making. Pieces are sophisticated in their design, and feature inlays of turquoise, mother of pearl, spondylus shell, and amethyst. The nose and ear ornaments, chest plates, small containers and whistles are considered masterpieces of ancient Peruvian culture.<ref
A notable example of Andean metallurgy is the Northern Andean cultures' work with [[platinum]], which has a much higher [[melting point]] than other precious metals. There are only a few known examples of [[cold worked]] platinum in the [[Old World]] and no known intentionally hot worked examples (platinum was not identified as a separate element and small inclusions appeared in some goldwork). In the New World however, certain Andean cultures recognized platinum as a separate metal and were able to incorporate it into jewellery, such as through [[sintering]] it with gold.<ref>{{cite
▲A notable example of Andean metallurgy is the Northern Andean cultures' work with [[platinum]], which has a much higher [[melting point]] than other precious metals. There are only a few known examples of [[cold worked]] platinum in the [[Old World]] and no known intentionally hot worked examples (platinum was not identified as a separate element and small inclusions appeared in some goldwork). In the New World however, certain Andean cultures recognized platinum as a separate metal and were able to incorporate it into jewellery, such as through [[sintering]] it with gold.<ref>{{cite web |title=Ancient Platinum Technology in South America |url=https://technology.matthey.com/article/24/4/147-157/ |website=technology.matthey.com |access-date=22 April 2023 |archive-date=22 April 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230422035641/https://technology.matthey.com/article/24/4/147-157/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
[[File:Funerary Goods found with the previous mask - Maya Museum Campeche.jpg|thumb|upright|Jadeite [[grave goods|funerary jewellery]] from Tomb 1 of Structure VII of [[Calakmul]], thought to belong to [[Yuknoom Tookʼ Kʼawiil]]. Late Classic (660 to 750 AD).]]
Among the Late Post-Classic Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it showed their rank, power, and wealth. A large portion of "Aztec gold" jewellery was created by Mixtec artisans. The Mixtecs were particularly known for their goldwork and gold jewellery was part of the tribute paid by Mixtec polities to the Aztecs. In general, the more jewellery an Aztec noble wore, the higher his status or prestige. [[Tlatoani|The Emperor]] and his High Priests, for example, would be nearly completely covered in jewellery when making public appearances. Although gold was the most common and a popular material used in Aztec jewellery, [[jade]], [[turquoise]], and certain feathers were considered more valuable.<ref>{{cite book |author1=Miller, Mary Ellen |author2=Taube, Karl A. |title=The Gods and Symbols of Ancient Mexico and the Maya: An Illustrated Dictionary of Mesoamerican Religion |url=https://archive.org/details/godssymbolsofa00mill |url-access=registration |year=1993 |publisher=Thames and Hudson |isbn=978-
Another ancient American civilization with expertise in jewellery making were the [[Maya civilization|Maya]]. During the Pre-Classic and Classic era of Maya civilization, the Maya were making jewellery from local materials such as jade, pearls, and
▲Among the Late Post-Classic Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it showed their rank, power, and wealth. A large portion of "Aztec gold" jewellery was created by Mixtec artisans. The Mixtecs were particularly known for their goldwork and gold jewellery was part of the tribute paid by Mixtec polities to the Aztecs. In general, the more jewellery an Aztec noble wore, the higher his status or prestige. [[Tlatoani|The Emperor]] and his High Priests, for example, would be nearly completely covered in jewellery when making public appearances. Although gold was the most common and a popular material used in Aztec jewellery, [[jade]], [[turquoise]], and certain feathers were considered more valuable.<ref>{{cite book|author1=Miller, Mary Ellen |author2=Taube, Karl A. |title=The Gods and Symbols of Ancient Mexico and the Maya: An Illustrated Dictionary of Mesoamerican Religion|url=https://archive.org/details/godssymbolsofa00mill|url-access=registration |year=1993|publisher=Thames and Hudson|isbn=978-0500050682}}</ref> In addition to adornment and status, the Aztecs also used jewellery in sacrifices to appease the gods.<ref name="last2millionyears"/><ref name="1000facts">Farndon, J. (2001). ''1,000 Facts on Modern History''. Miles Kelly Publishing.</ref>
▲Another ancient American civilization with expertise in jewellery making were the [[Maya civilization|Maya]]. During the Pre-Classic and Classic era of Maya civilization, the Maya were making jewellery from local materials such as jade, pearls, and sea shell while also incorporating imported materials such as obsidian and turquoise. In the Terminal Classic and Post-Classic, importation of gold, silver, [[bronze]], and [[copper]] lead to the use of these materials in jewellery. Merchants and nobility were the only few that wore expensive jewellery in the Maya region, much the same as with the Aztecs.<ref name="vanished" /> Jade in particular had an important [[Jade use in Mesoamerica|role across Mesoamerica]].
In [[Northern America]], Native Americans used [[Exoskeleton|shells]], wood, turquoise, and [[soapstone]] The turquoise was used in necklaces and to be placed in earrings. The turquoise incorporated into Mesoamerican jewellery was primarily obtained through trade with [[Oasisamerica]]. Native Americans with access to [[oyster]] shells, often located in only one location in America, traded the shells with other tribes, showing the great importance of the body adornment trade in Northern America.<ref
Jewellery played a major role in the fate of the [[Americas]] when the [[Spanish colonization of the Americas|Spanish colonizers]] were spurred to search for gold on the American mainland after coming into contact with Caribbean natives that had gold jewellery obtained through trade with the mainland. Continued contact with Native Americans wearing gold jewellery eventually lead to Spanish expeditions of the mythological [[El Dorado]].
<gallery widths="170" heights="170">
Messico, colima o jalisco, ornamenti in conchigli di spondylus, 200 ac-200 dc ca. 03.jpg|Pendant made from a ''[[spondylus]]'' shell,
BOG 04 2012 Museo de Oro 1213.JPG|[[Muisca]] gold jewellery, including a headband, nose ornament and pectoral, on display at the [[Gold Museum, Bogotá|Gold Museum]] in Bogota, Colombia.
Peru, North Coast, Moche culture (50-800), Early Intermediate Period - Nose Ornament with Decapitators and Human Heads - 2005.176 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif|Moche nose ornament made from silver and gold-silver [[alloy]], inlaid with [[malachite]], now at the [[Cleveland Museum of Art]], United States.
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</gallery>
=== Native American ===
{{Main|Native American jewelry}}
[[File:Atsidi Sani.jpg|thumb|upright|Bai-De-Schluch-A-Ichin or Be-Ich-Schluck-Ich-In-Et-Tzuzzigi (Slender Silversmith) "Metal Beater," [[Navajo people|Navajo]] silversmith, photo by George Ben Wittick, 1883]]
'''Native American jewellery''' is the personal adornment, often in the forms of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, pins, brooches, labrets, and more, made by the [[Indigenous peoples of the United States]]. Native American jewellery reflects the cultural diversity and history of its makers. [[Native American tribes]] continue to develop distinct aesthetics rooted in their personal artistic visions and cultural traditions. Artists create jewellery for adornment, ceremonies, and trade. Lois Sherr Dubin writes, "[i]n the absence of written languages, adornment became an important element of Indian [Native American] communication, conveying many levels of information." Later, jewellery and personal adornment "...signaled resistance to assimilation. It remains a major statement of tribal and individual identity."<ref>Dubin, 17</ref>
Within the Haida Nation of the Pacific Northwest, copper was used as a form of jewellery for creating bracelets.<ref
Metalsmiths, beaders, carvers, and lapidaries combine a variety of metals, hardwoods, precious and semi-precious gemstones, [[beadwork]], [[quillwork]], teeth, bones, hide, vegetal fibres, and other materials to create jewellery. Contemporary Native American jewellery ranges from hand-quarried and processed stones and shells to computer-fabricated steel and titanium jewellery.
=== Pacific ===
{{Main|Jewellery in the Pacific}}
Jewellery making in the [[Pacific]] started later than in other areas because of recent human settlement. Early Pacific jewellery was made of bone, wood, and other natural materials, and thus has not survived. Most Pacific jewellery is worn above the waist, with headdresses, necklaces, hair pins, and arm and waist belts being the most common pieces.
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Jewellery in the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either fertility or power. Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of [[Papua New Guinea]], wear certain headdresses once they have killed an enemy. Tribesman may wear boar bones through their noses.
Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures. Some areas of Borneo and Papua New Guinea are yet to be explored by Western nations. However, the island nations that were flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism. Thus, many tribal designs were lost forever in the mass conversion to Christianity.<ref name="
[[Australia]] is now the number one supplier of [[opal]]s in the world. Opals had already been mined in Europe and South America for many years prior, but in the late 19th century, the Australian opal market became predominant. Australian opals are only mined in a few select places around the country, making it one of the most profitable stones in the Pacific.<ref
The [[New Zealand]] [[Māori culture|Māori]] traditionally had a strong culture of personal adornment,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://tpo.tepapa.govt.nz/ViewTopicExhibitDetail.asp?TopicFileID=MINZ_T14&Language=English&dumbyparam=search |quote=Maori made and wore items of jewellery..." |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100602095700/http://tpo.tepapa.govt.nz/ViewTopicExhibitDetail.asp?TopicFileID=MINZ_T14&Language=English&dumbyparam=search |date=2010-06-02 |publisher=Te Papa |title=Maori customary adornment |archive-date=2010-06-02
Nowadays a wide range of such traditionally inspired items such as bone carved pendants based on traditional fishhooks ''[[hei matau]]'' and other [[Pounamu|greenstone]] jewellery are popular with young New Zealanders of all backgrounds – for whom they relate to a generalized sense of New Zealand identity. These trends have contributed towards a worldwide interest in traditional Māori culture and arts.
Other than jewellery created through Māori influence, modern jewellery in New Zealand is multicultural and varied.<ref name="
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== Modern ==
[[File:Gold-jewellery-jewel-henry-designs-terabass.jpg|thumb|right|Gold and gemstone contemporary jewellery design]]
[[File:Male hand with two rings operating computer mouse (cropped) (cropped).jpg|thumb|Male hand with modern silver rings, one with a tribal
Most modern commercial jewellery continues traditional forms and styles, but designers such as [[Georg Jensen]] have widened the concept of wearable art. The advent of new materials, such as plastics, [[Precious Metal Clay]] (PMC), and colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved [[pearl]] harvesting by people such as [[Mikimoto Kōkichi]] and the development of improved quality
The [[Art jewellery|"jewellery as art"]] movement was spearheaded by artisans such as [[Robert Lee Morris]] and continued by designers such as Gill Forsbrook in the UK. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident. One example of this is [[bling-bling]] style jewellery, popularised by hip-hop and rap artists in the early 21st century, e.g. [[Grill (jewelry)|grills]], a type of jewellery worn over the teeth.
[[File:Shraddha Kapoor at IBJA awards and fashion showcase.jpg|thumb|left|upright|Indian actress [[Shraddha Kapoor]] showcasing modern Indian-style jewellery]]
The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as [[Mokume-gane]]. The following are innovations in the decades straddling the year 2000: "Mokume-gane, hydraulic [[Die forming (plastics)|die forming]], anti-clastic [[raising (metalworking)|raising]], [[fold-forming]], reactive metal [[Anodizing|anodising]], shell forms, [[Metal clay|PMC]], [[photoetching]], and [use of] [[CAD/CAM]]."<ref>McCrieght, Tim. "What's New?" ''Metalsmith'' Spring 2006, Vol. 26 Issue 1, pp. 42–45</ref>
Also, [[3D printing]] as a production technique gains more and more importance.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} With a great variety of services offering this production method, jewellery design becomes accessible to a growing number of creatives. An important advantage of using 3d printing are the relatively low costs for [[prototype]]s, small batch series or unique and [[Personalization|personalized]] designs. Shapes that are hard or impossible to create by hand can often be realized by 3D printing. Popular materials to print include [[polyamide]], [[steel]] and [[wax]] (latter for further processing). Every printable material has its very own constraints that have to be considered while designing the piece of jewellery using [[3D modelling software]].
[[Art jewellery|Artisan jewellery]] continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} With more than 17 United States periodicals about beading alone, resources, accessibility, and a low initial cost of entry continues to expand production of hand-made adornments.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at [[The Metropolitan Museum of Art]] in [[New York City]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/ajew/hd_ajew.htm |title=Nineteenth-Century American Jewelry |work=metmuseum.org |access-date=2006-09-25 |archive-date=2006-12-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061214063020/http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/ajew/hd_ajew.htm |url-status=live}}</ref> The increase in numbers of students choosing to study jewellery design and production in Australia has grown in the past 20 years, and Australia now has a thriving contemporary jewellery community.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} Many of these jewellers have embraced modern materials and techniques, as well as incorporating traditional workmanship.
More expansive use of metal to adorn the wearer, where the piece is larger and more elaborate than what would normally be considered jewellery, has come to be referred to by designers and fashion writers as [[metal couture]].<ref>Mohemad, Dena. [http://www.pushitmagazine.com/news/manuel-albarren-metal-couture/ "Manuel Albarran Metal Couture"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160411055635/http://www.pushitmagazine.com/news/manuel-albarren-metal-couture/ |date=2016-04-11 }}. ''Pushit Journal'' – News</ref><ref>Ilbarra, Sabina (May 5, 2014) [http://www.lol-la.com/qa-with-maleficent-costume-designer-manuel-albarran/ "Q & A with Manuel Albarran"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160413222446/http://www.lol-la.com/qa-with-maleficent-costume-designer-manuel-albarran/ |date=2016-04-13 }}. ''Living Out Loud''</ref>
== Masonic ==
[[File:Masonic jewels.jpg|thumb|Types of masonic collar jewels]]
[[Freemasons]] attach jewels to their detachable collars when in Lodge to signify a Brothers Office held with the Lodge.{{Cn|date=December 2024}} For example, the square represents the Master of the Lodge and the dove represents the Deacon.
== Body modification ==
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Jewellery used in [[body modification]] can be simple and plain or dramatic and extreme. The use of simple silver studs, rings, and earrings predominates. Common jewellery pieces such as earrings are a form of body modification, as they are accommodated by creating a small hole in the ear.
[[Kayan (Burma)|Padaung]] women in [[Myanmar]] place large golden rings around their necks. From as early as five years old, girls are introduced to their first neck ring. Over the years, more rings are added. In addition to the twenty-plus pounds of rings on her neck, a woman will also wear just as many rings on her calves. At their extent, some necks modified like this can reach {{convert|10|–|15|in|cm|abbr=on}} long. The practice has health impacts and has in recent years declined from cultural norm to tourist curiosity.<ref name="
In the late twentieth century, the influence of [[modern primitive|modern primitivism]] led to many of these practices being incorporated into western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects, thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred.
In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier; in some cases, with hooks or other objects being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practice has seeped into western culture. Many extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin. Most often, these hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practice is said to give an erotic feeling to the person and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whilst being suspended by hooks.<ref name="
== Jewellery market ==
[[File:Kirkkokatu 19 Oulu 20210220.jpg|thumb|The Oulun Koru [[jewellery shop]] at the Kirkkokatu street in [[Oulu]], [[Finland]]]]
According to a 2007 KPMG study,<ref
== See also ==
{{div col|colwidth=22em}}
* [[Art jewelry]]
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* [[List of jewellery types]]
* [[List of topics characterized as pseudoscience]] (healing jewelry)
* [[List of names derived from gemstones]]
* [[Live insect jewelry]]
* [[Suffrage jewellery]]
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{{div col end}}
== References ==
{{Reflist}}
== Further reading ==
* Borel, F. 1994. The Splendor of Ethnic Jewelry: from the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection. ''New York: H.N. Abrams'' ({{ISBN|0810929937}}).
* Evans, J. 1989. A History of Jewellery 1100–1870 ({{ISBN|0486261220}}).
* {{cite book |author=LaGamma, Alisa |
* Nemet-Nejat, Karen Rhea 1998. Daily Life in Ancient Mesopotamia. ''Westport, CT: Greenwood Press'' ({{ISBN|0313294976}}).
* Tait, H. 1986. Seven Thousand Years of Jewellery. ''London: British Museum Publications'' ({{ISBN|0714120340}}).
== External links ==
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