Suit: Difference between revisions

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{{Short description|Western business attire of matching jacket and trousers}}
{{use dmy dates |date=March 2023}}
{{hatnote group|
{{About|the clothing}}
{{Redirect|Suit and tie|the song by Justin Timberlake|Suit & Tie}} }}
{{useUse dmy dates |date=March 2023}}
 
[[File:Matt Smith on "Christopher And His Kind" set.jpg|thumb|Actor [[Matt Smith]] wearing a traditional English suit.]]
[[File:Vladimir Putin meeting with Narendra Modi in the Kremlin.jpg|thumb|[[Narendra Modi]], Prime Minister of India, and [[Vladimir Putin]], President of Russia, in business suits. Note that Modi is wearing a [[Jodhpuri]] with [[Mandarin collar]], commonplace in India, while Putin's jacket features [[notch lapel]]s, more common in the [[Western world]].]]
 
{{Western dress codes|informal}}
A '''suit''', '''lounge suit''', or '''business suit''' is a set of clothes comprising a [[suit jacket]] and trousers of identical [[textile]]s generally worn with a collared [[dress shirt]], [[necktie]], and [[dress shoes]]. A '''skirt suit''' is similar, but with a matching [[skirt]] instead of trousers. It is currently considered [[semi-formal wear]] or business wear in contemporary [[Western dress codes]], however when the suit was originally developed it was considered an informal or more casual option compared to the prevailing clothing standards of aristocrats and businessmen. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as [[sportswear (fashion)|sportswear]] and [[British country clothing]], which is why it was seen as more casual than [[Wikt:citywear|citywear]] at that time, with the roots of the suit coming from early modern Western Europe formal court or military clothes. After replacing the black [[frock coat]] in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit.
A '''suit''', also called a '''lounge suit''', '''business suit''', '''dress suit''', or '''businessformal suit''' is a set of clothes comprising a [[suit jacket]] and trousers of identical [[textile]]s generally worn with a collared [[dress shirt]], [[necktie]], and [[dress shoes]]. A '''skirt suit''' is similar, but with a matching [[skirt]] instead of trousers. It is currently considered [[semi-formal wear]] or business wear in contemporary [[Western dress codes]], however when the suit was originally developed it was considered an informal or more casual option compared to the prevailing clothing standards of aristocrats and businessmen. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as [[sportswear (fashion)|sportswear]] and [[British country clothing]], which is why it was seen as more casual than [[Wikt:citywear|citywear]] at that time, with the roots of the suit coming from early modern Western Europe formal court or military clothes. After replacing the black [[frock coat]] in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit.
 
Suits are offered in different designs and constructions. Cut and cloth, whether two- or three-piece, single- or double-breasted, vary, in addition to various [[Fashion accessory|accessories]]. A two-piece suit has a jacket and trousers; a three-piece suit adds a waistcoat.<ref>Flusser (2002). p. 146</ref> Hats were almost always worn outdoors (and sometimes indoors) with all men's clothes until the [[counterculture of the 1960s]] in [[Western culture]]. Informal suits have been traditionally worn with a [[fedora]], a [[trilby]], or a [[flat cap]]. Other accessories include handkerchief, [[suspenders]] or belt, watch, and jewelry.
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===Trousers===
Suit [[trousers]] are always made of the same material as the jacket. Even from the 1910s to 1920s, before the invention of sports jackets specifically to be worn with odd trousers, wearing a suit jacket with odd trousers was seen as an alternative to a full suit.<ref>Flusser (2002). p. 100</ref> However, with the modern advent of sports jackets, suit jackets are always worn with matching trousers, and the trousers are worn with no jacket or the appropriate jacket.{{Citation needed|date=December 2008}}
 
Trouser width has varied considerably throughout the decades. In the 1920s, trousers were straight-legged and wide-legged, with a standard width at the cuff of {{convert|23|in|cm}}. After 1935, trousers began to be tapered in at the bottom half of the leg. Trousers remained wide at the top of the leg throughout the 1940s. By the 1950s and 1960s, a more slim look had become popular. In the 1970s, suit makers offered a variety of styles of trousers, including flared, bell bottomed, wide-legged, and more traditional tapered trousers. In the 1980s, these styles disappeared in favor of tapered, slim-legged trousers.
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== Etiquette ==
{{more citations needed section|date=August 2008}}
{{Further|Informal wear}}
{{moreMore citations needed section|date=August 2008}}
 
===Buttoning the suit jacket===
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|image2=Australian Football Awards (6210387037).jpg
|caption2=The bottom button of a single-breasted suit coat is left unfastened.}}
 
The buttoning of the jacket is primarily determined by the ''button stance'', a measure of how high the buttons are in relation to the natural waist. In some (now unusual) styles where the buttons are placed high, the tailor would have intended the suit to be buttoned differently from the more common lower stance. Nevertheless, some general guidelines are given here.
 
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===Women===
[[File:Camino a la reunión con con el Presidente de la República Popular China, el Excmo. Sr. Xi Jinping. (8627337472).jpg|thumb|[[Angélica Rivera]] wearing a modern-day skirt suit]]
{{Unreferenced section|date=February 2011}}
{{See also|Pantsuit}}
{{Unreferenced section|date=February 2011}}
[[File:Camino a la reunión con con el Presidente de la República Popular China, el Excmo. Sr. Xi Jinping. (8627337472).jpg|thumb|[[Angélica Rivera]] wearing a modern-day skirt suit]]
 
Suit-wearing etiquette for women generally follows the same guidelines used by men, with a few differences and more flexibility.
 
For women, the [[skirt suit]] or [[dress]] suit are both acceptable; a [[blouse]], which can be white or coloured, usually takes the place of a shirt. Women's suits can also be worn with coloured tops or T-shirts. Also, women usually wear suits in professional settings, rather than as general formal attire, as men do.
 
Women's suits come in a larger variety of colours, such as darks, pastels, and gem colours.
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For many men who do not wear suits for work, particularly in Western society, wearing a suit is reserved for special occasions, such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, and other more formal social events. Hence, because they are not a daily outfit for most men, they are often viewed as being "stuffy" and uncomfortable. The combination of a tie, belt and waistcoat can be tight and restrictive compared to contemporary casual wear, especially when these are purchased at minimal cost and quality for rare occasions, rather than being made to be worn comfortably. This tendency became prevalent enough that the [[Christian Science Monitor]] reported that a heavy jacket combined with a necktie and flimsy slacks was "a design that guarantees that its wearer will be uncomfortable" at any temperature.<ref>[http://features.csmonitor.com/environment/2009/09/05/to-save-power-bangladesh-bans-suits-and-ties/ To save power, Bangladesh bans suits and ties], ''The Christian Science Monitor'', September 5, 2009</ref> During the late 1960s and early 1970s, men's suits became less commonly worn, in much the same way that skirts and dresses were dropped by many women in favour of trousers. This was seen as a liberation from the conformity of earlier periods and occurred concurrently with the [[women's liberation movement]].
 
Also remarkable is that the suit now frequently appears in Rock, Heavy Metal and Gothic happenings, even though such groups were once known for a rather rebellious tradition of clothing. Artists and bands such as [[Nick Cave]], [[Interpol (band)|Interpol]], [[Marilyn Manson]], [[Blutengel]], [[Albert Hammond Jr ]] of [[The Strokes]] and [[Akercocke]] are known for the use of formal clothing in music videos and stage performances. The suit also appears when fans dress for styles such as Lolita, Victorian and Corporate Gothic.
 
===East and South Asia===
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** [[Business casual]]
 
== References ==
{{Reflist|colwidth=25em}}
 
== General and cited references ==
==Sources==
{{Refbegin}}
* {{Cite book |last=Antongiavanni |first=Nicholas |year=2006 |title=The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style |last=Antongiavanni| first=Nicholas |year=2006 |publisher=[[HarperCollins]] |isbn=978-0-06-089186-2}}
* {{citeCite book |titlelast=Boyer |first=G. Bruce |year=1990 |title=Eminently Suitable: The Elements of Style Inin Business Attire |lastothers=Tony BoyerKokinos |first= Bruce(illustrator) |yearlocation=New 1990York |publisher=W. TheW. HaddonNorton Craftsmen& Company |isbn=978-0-393-02877-15}}
* {{Citecite book |title=Eminently Suitable: The Elements of Style in Business Attire |last=BoyerCalasibetta |first=G.Charlotte BruceMankey |othersyear=Tony Kokinos (illustrator)2003 |datetitle=SeptemberThe 1990Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion |publisher=[[W.Fairchild W. Norton & CompanyPublications]] |isbn=978-01-39356367-02877235-59}}
* {{Cite book |last=Croonborg |first=Frederick |year=1907 |title=The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring |location=New York and Chicago |publisher=Croonborg Sartorial Co.}}
* {{cite book |title= The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion |last= Calasibetta |first= Charlotte Mankey |year= 2003 |publisher= [[Fairchild Publications]]|isbn=1-56367-235-9}}
* {{Cite book | last=Croonborg|Druesedow |first=FrederickJean L. |titleauthor2=TheJno. BlueJ. BookMitchell ofCo. |year=1990 |title=Men's TailoringFashion |publisherIllustrations =from the Turn of the Century: by Jno. CroonborgJ. SartorialMitchell Co | locationpublisher=NewCourier YorkDover and ChicagoPublications |yearisbn=1907978-0-486-26353-3}}
* {{Cite book |title= The New-Way Course in Fashionable Clothes-Making |year= 1926|publisher= Fashion Institute | url= http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-toc-short.html |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20080705215810/http://www.vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-toc-short.html |archive-date = 2008-07-05 |publisher=Fashion Institute |year=1926 |oclc=55530806 | access-date = 2008-08-20}}
* {{Cite book |title=Men's Fashion Illustrations from the Turn of the Century: by Jno. J. Mitchell Co |last=Druesedow |first=Jean L. |author2=Jno. J. Mitchell Co |year=1990 |publisher=Courier Dover Publications |isbn=978-0-486-26353-3}}
* {{Cite book |titlelast=Flusser |first=Alan |author-link=Alan Flusser |year=1985 |title=Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men's Dress|last=Flusser |firsturl=Alan |author-link=Alan Flusser |year=1985http://www.throughtherye.com/flusser/index_current.html |publisher=[[Villard (imprint)|Villard]] |isbn=0-394-54623-7 |url=http://www.throughtherye.com/flusser/index_current.html |access-date=2008-09-20 }}
* {{Citecite book |title= Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion |last= Flusser |first= Alan |author-link= Alan Flusser |year=1996 2002|title=Style and the Man |url=https://archive.org/details/isbn_9780062701558 |url-access=registration |publisher= [[HarperCollins]] |isbn= 0-06-019144270155-9X }}
* {{citeCite book |title= Style and the Man |last= Flusser |first= Alan |author-link= Alan Flusser |year=2002 1996|title=Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion |publisher= [[HarperCollins]] |isbn= 0-06-270155019144-X |url-access= registration |url= https://archive.org/details/isbn_9780062701558 9}}
* {{Cite book |last=Keers |first=Paul |date=October 1987 |title=A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man |last=Keers |first=Paul |date=October 1987 |publisher=[[Weidenfeld & Nicolson]]| |isbn=978-0-297-79191-1}}
* {{cite book |last=Kidwill |first=Claudia B. |year=1974 |title= Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America |last= Kidwill |first= Claudia, B. |year= 1974 |publisher= [[Smithsonian Institution Press]]}}
* {{Cite book |title= The New-Way Course in Fashionable Clothes-Making |year= 1926|publisher= Fashion Institute | url= http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-toc-short.html |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20080705215810/http://www.vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-toc-short.html|archive-date = 2008-07-05|oclc=55530806 | access-date = 2008-08-20}}
 
{{Refend}}
 
==External links==
{{Commons category|Suits}}
* [https://archive.org/details/etiquetteinsocie0000emil/page/562 Chapter XXXIV - "The Clothes of a Gentleman", from ''Etiquette'' by Emily Post, Seventh Edition, 1923] on [[Internet Archive]]
* [http://www.bartleby.com/95/34.html Emily Post's ''Etiquette'': The Clothes of a Gentleman, 1922]
* {{Cite web |work=Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories
|publisher= [[Victoria and Albert Museum]]
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|title= Introduction to 18th-century fashion
|access-date= 2008-08-06}}
* {{cite news |last1=Meek |first1=Miki |author2=Lam Thuy Vo |date=September 6, 2012 |title=The Difference Between a $99 Suit and a $5,000 Suit, in One Graphic |url=https://www.npr.org/blogs/money/2012/09/05/160607575/the-difference-between-a-99-suit-and-a-5-000-suit-in-one-graphic |title=The Difference Between A $99 Suit And A $5,000 Suit, In One Graphic |first1=Miki |last1=Meek |author2=Lam Thuy Vo |date=September 6, 2012 |publisherwork=[[Planet Money]] |access-date=October 10, 2013}}
 
{{Parties}}
{{Fashion}}
{{Clothing}}
 
{{Authority control}}