Jacquard machine: Difference between revisions

The '''Jacquard machine''' ({{IPA-|fr|ʒakaʁ|lang}}) is a device fitted to a [[loom]] that simplifies the process of manufacturing [[textiles]] with such complex patterns as [[brocade]], [[damask]] and [[matelassé]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.christinalynn.com/fabric-glossary.shtml |title=Fabric Glossary |access-date=2008-11-21 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090105170019/http://www.christinalynn.com/fabric-glossary.shtml |archive-date=January 5, 2009 }}</ref> The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a '''Jacquard loom'''. The machine was patented by [[Joseph Marie Jacquard]] in 1804,<ref>Eric Hobsbawm, "The Age of Revolution", (London 1962; repr. 2008), p.45.</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Schoenherr |first=Steven |title=Jacquard's Punched Card |url=http://www.aes-media.org/historical/html/recording.technology.history/jacquard1.html |access-date=2022-06-18 |website=www.aes-media.org}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last= |first= |title=The Jacquard Mechanism: Innovation |url=https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/the-jacquard-mechanism-innovation |access-date=2022-06-18 |website=Macclesfield Museums |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Keranen |first=Rachel |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BHdmDwAAQBAJ&q=%22jacquard%20loom%22%201804 |title=Inventions in Computing: From the Abacus to Personal Computers |date=2016 |publisher=Cavendish Square Publishing, LLC |isbn=978-1-5026-2301-0 |pages=41–43 |language=en}}</ref> based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen [[Basile Bouchon]] (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and [[Jacques Vaucanson]] (1740).<ref>[[Jacquard loom#RAZY|C. Razy]] p.120 (1913)</ref> The machine was controlled by a "chain of cards"; a number of [[punched card]]s laced together into a continuous sequence.<ref>{{cite journal

Both the Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor. This mechanism is probably one of the most important [[weaving]] innovations as Jacquard [[sheddingshed (loomweaving)|shedding]] made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of complex pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning. The process can also be used for patterned knitwear and machine-knitted textiles such as [[jersey (fabric)|jersey]]s.<ref>{{cite book|last=Parrillo Chapman|first=Lisa|title=Textile Design Engineering Within the Product Shape|year=2008|isbn=978-1109003987|pages=69–70|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=QaHxO8qgZFYC&q=jacquard+knitting&pg=PA69}}</ref>

OnAs shown in the diagram, the cards are fastened into a continuous chain (1) which passes over a square box. At each quarter rotation, a new card is presented to the Jacquard head which represents one row (one "pick" of the [[shuttle (weaving)|shuttle]] carrying the [[weft]]). The box swings from the right to the position shown and presses against the control rods (2). For Whereeach therehole isin athe holecard, thea rod passes through the card and is unmoved; whereaswhere if the holethere is notno punchedhole, thea rod is pushed to the left. Each rod acts upon a hook (3). When the rod is pushed in, the hook moves out of position to the left,; a rod that is not pushed in leaves its hook in place. A beam (4) then rises under the hooks, and thosethe hooks in the rest locationposition are raised;. theThe hooks that have been displaced are not moved by the beam. Each hook can have multiple cords (5). Each Thecord cords passpasses through a guide (6) and areis attached to theira corresponding [[heddle]] (7) and a return weight (8). The heddles raise the [[Warp (weaving)|warp]] to create the [[shed (weaving)|shed]] through which the shuttle carrying the weft will pass.<ref>{{Citation |last=Victoria and Albert Museum |title=How was it Made? Jacquard weaving |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6NgMNvK52A |publication-date=2015-10-08 |publisher=Youtube |language=en |access-date=2022-06-18}}</ref> A loom with a 400 -hook head might have four threads connected to each hook, resulting in a fabric that is 1600 [[Warp (weaving)|warp]] ends wide with four repeats of the weave going across.

Jacquard-driven looms, although relatively common in the textile industry, are not as ubiquitous as dobby looms which are usually faster and much cheaper to operate. However, dobby looms are not capable of producing so many different weaves from one [[Warp (weaving)|warp]]. Modern jacquard machines are controlled by computers in place of the original punched cards and can have thousands of hooks.

The threading of a Jacquard machine is so labor-intensive that many looms are threaded only once. Subsequent [[Warp (weaving)|warp]]s are then tied into the existing warp with the help of a knotting robot which ties on each new thread on individually. Even for a small loom with only a few thousand [[Warp (weaving)|warp ends]], the process of re-threading can take days.

Originally the, Jacquard machines were [[machine|mechanical]], and the fabric design was stored inon a series of [[punched card]]s which were joined to form a continuous chain. The Jacquards were often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats, and; hence, larger designs could be woven across the loom width.

A [[factory]] must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule, the moregreater warp control required themeans greater the expense. So it is not economical to purchase Jacquard machines if one can make do with a [[Dobby loom|dobby mechanism]]. As well asBeyond the capital expense, the Jacquard machines arecost more costly to maintain as they are complex and, require higher highly-skilled personnel;operators, and anuse expensive design system is requiredsystems to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly a card-cutting machine. WeavingThus, is more costly since Jacquard mechanismsthey are more likely to produce faults than dobby or cam shedding. Also, the looms will not run as quickly and down-time will increase because it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. For these reasons itIt is best to weave larger batches with mechanical Jacquards.

It is recorded that inIn 1855, a Frenchman<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://archive.org/details/irishlinentrade00smitgoog|title=The Irish linen trade hand-book and directory|publisher=W. H. Greer, 1876|accessdate=June 11, 2023|via=Internet Archive}}</ref> adapted the Jacquard mechanism to a system by which it could be worked by electro-magnets. There was significant interest, but trials were not successful, and the development was soon forgotten.

Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA [[Milan]] in 1983.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Bonas Textile Machinery NV - About Us |url=https://www.bonas.be/en/about-us |access-date= 8 October 2020 |website=bonas.be |archive-date=11 December 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171211233551/http://www.bonas.be/en/about-us |url-status=dead }}</ref>{{efn|According to its operators (CEMATEX, {{lang|fr|Le Comité Européen des Constructeurs de Machines Textiles}}, an organisation comprising 9 national European textile machinery associations) ITMA is "the world's largest international textile and garment technology exhibition".<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.cematex.com/about-itma | title= About ITMA | website = Cematex.com | access-date= 8 October 2020}}</ref>}} Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends.<ref>{{Cite journal |first=R G|last=Panneerselvam|date=16 Jul 2020|title=Use of indigenous electronic jacquard in handloom for weaving fashionable silk sarees |url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/344151421|journal=Dogo Rangsang Research Journal|volume=10|pages=84|via=UGC Care Group}}</ref> ThatThis avoidseliminates the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allowsinvites almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designspunchcards, thusthereby allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be requirednecessary in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The largerLarger machines allowingaccommodating single -end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified wherewhen great versatility is required, or very specialized designdesigns requirementsare need to be metrequired. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low -cost areasproduction.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Krutik |first=citation needed|date=MarchOctober 19 2024 |title=Jacquard Design Beyond Limits: A Journey into Electronic Jacquard Textile Innovation |url=https://ldtexsol.com/jacquard-design-beyond-limits-a-journey-into-electronic-jacquard-textile-innovation/ |url-status=live |archive-url=https://ldtexsol.com/products-electronic-jacquard-machine/ |access-date=April 4, 2024 |website=LD Texsol2020}}</ref>

[[Linen]] products associated with Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics<ref>{{Cite web |title=Fabric Weaving process with Electronic Jacquard Machine |url=https://medium.com/@ldtexsol/fabric-weaving-process-with-electronic-jacquard-machine-09d9e9ae6360 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://ldtexsol.com/about-us-arcadia-engineering-pvt-ltd/ |website=Medium}}</ref> and damask bed linen. Jacquard weaving uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Jacquard weaving can also be used to create fabrics that have a [[Matelassé]] or a [[brocade]] pattern.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Krutik |title=CraftingJacquard QualityFabric with— ElectronicWhat JacquardIs Machinesa |url=https://ldtexsol.com/jacquard-loom-crafting-quality/Jacquard? |url-status=live Sailrite|archive-url=https://ldtexsolwww.sailrite.com/aboutWhat-usIs-arcadiaa-engineering-pvt-ltd/ Jacquard|access-date=April 4, 2024 2020-09-16|website=LD Texsolwww.sailrite.com}}</ref> Research is under way{{when|date=October 2020}}{{update inline|date=October 2020}} to develop layered and shaped items as reinforcing components for structures made from [[composite material]]s.{{citation needed|date=October 2020}}

A pinnacle of production using a Jacquard machine is a prayer book, woven in silk. The book's title, isentitled {{lang|fr|Livre de Prières. Tissé d'après les enluminures des manuscrits du XIVe au XVIe siècle}}.<ref>{{cite web |title=At Walters Art Museum, a 19th-century prayer book connected to computer pioneers |url=https://www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment/arts/bs-fe-silk-book-computers-20190111-story.html |website=Baltimore Sun |date=9 February 2019 |access-date=11 February 2019}}</ref> All 58 pages of the prayer book were made ofwoven silk, wovenmade usingwith a Jacquard machine, using black and gray thread, at 160 threads per cm (400 threads per inch). The pages have elaborate borders with text and pictures of saints. It isAn estimated that 200,000 to 500,000 punch cardspunchcards were necessary to encode the pages, at 160 threads per cm (400 threads per inch).

ItThe book was issued in 1886 and 1887, in Lyon, France., Itand was publicly displayed at the 1889 ''Exposition Universelle'' (World's Fair). It was designed by R.&nbsp;P.&nbsp;J. Hervier, woven by J.&nbsp;A. Henry, and published by A.&nbsp;Roux.<ref>{{cite book|title= Livre de Prières. Tissé d'après les enluminures des manuscrits du XIVe au XVIe siècle | first1=J A |last1=Henry |first2=R P J |last2=Hervier |others=A Roux (Printer); J Kauffmann (Bookbinder) | oclc= 948879235 |url= https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/948879235 | quote= Manufacture of the volume employed the Jacquard method (Joseph-Marie Jacquard, 1752-1834) of using punch cards which J.A. Henry first used with {{lang|fr|Les laboureurs. Poème tiré de Jocelyn. Reproduit en caractères tissés avec license des propriétaires éditeurs}} (by Alphonse de Lamartine) in 1883. That earlier title is the true "first book 'printed' by computer". Over a two-year period, 50-60 copies of Livre de prières were produced. According to book historian Michael Laird, several hundred thousand cards (estimated between 106,000 and 500,000) were required.}}</ref> It took two years and almost 50 trials to get correct. An estimated 50 or 60 copies were produced.