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{{More footnotes|date=January 2020}}
[[File:A la mémoire de J.M. Jacquard.jpg|thumb|This portrait of [[Joseph Marie Jacquard|Jacquard]] was woven in [[silk]] on a Jacquard loom and required 24,000 punched cards to create (1839). It was only produced to order. [[Charles Babbage]] owned one of these portraits; it inspired him in using perforated cards in his [[Analytical Engine]].<ref>Hyman, Anthony, ed. ''Science and Reform: Selected Works of Charles Babbage'', Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press, 1989, p. 298.</ref> It is in the collection of the Science Museum in London, England.<ref name=Delve99>Delve (2007), p. 99.</ref>]]
[[File:A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland.jpg|thumb|330px|A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland]]▼
The '''Jacquard machine''' ({{IPA
|journal = Newton's London Journal of Arts and Sciences
|date = January 1, 1866
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|editor1-first = William}}</ref> Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card, with one complete card corresponding to one row of the design.
Both the Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor. This mechanism is probably one of the most important [[weaving]] innovations as Jacquard [[
This use of replaceable [[punched cards]] to control a sequence of operations is considered an important step in the [[history of computing hardware]], having inspired [[Charles Babbage]]'s [[Analytical Engine]].
==History==
▲[[File:A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland.jpg|thumb|
Traditionally, figured designs were made on a [[drawloom]]. The [[heddle]]s with warp ends to be pulled up were manually selected by a second operator, the draw boy, not the weaver. The work was slow and labour-intensive, and the complexity of the pattern was limited by practical factor.
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Jacquard's invention had a deep influence on [[Charles Babbage]]. In that respect, he is viewed by some authors as a precursor of modern [[computing]] technology.<ref>Essinger, James (2004). ''Jacquard's web''. Oxford University Press, Oxford. {{ISBN|978-0-19-280578-2}}</ref>
==Principles of operation==
[[File:Jacquard 2.jpg|thumb|
[[File:Telaio Jacquard 1849.jpg|thumb|19th century [[Engineering drawing]] of a Jacquard loom
The term "Jacquard loom" is somewhat inaccurate. It is the "Jacquard head" that adapts to a great many [[dobby loom]]s that allow the weaving machine to then create the intricate patterns often seen in Jacquard weaving.
Jacquard-driven looms, although relatively common in the textile industry, are not as ubiquitous as dobby looms which are usually faster and much cheaper to operate. However, dobby looms are not capable of producing
The threading of a Jacquard machine is so labor-intensive that many looms are threaded only once. Subsequent [[Warp (weaving)|warp]]s are then tied into the existing warp with the help of a knotting robot which ties on each new thread
==Mechanical Jacquard devices==
[[File:Jacquard.loom.cards.jpg|right|thumb|Punched cards in use in a Jacquard loom
[[File:Masson Mills WTM 10 Jacquard Card Cutter 5890.JPG|thumb|A punch for Jacquard cards]]
Originally the Jacquard machines were [[machine|mechanical]], and the fabric design was stored in a series of [[punched card]]s which were joined to form a continuous chain. The Jacquards often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats, and hence larger designs could be woven across the loom width.▼
▲Originally
A [[factory]] must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule the more warp control required the greater the expense. So it is not economical to purchase Jacquard machines if one can make do with a [[Dobby loom|dobby mechanism]]. As well as the capital expense, the Jacquard machines are more costly to maintain, as they are complex and require higher skilled personnel; an expensive design system is required to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly a card-cutting machine. Weaving is more costly since Jacquard mechanisms are more likely to produce faults than dobby or cam shedding. Also, the looms will not run as quickly and down-time will increase because it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. For these reasons it is best to weave larger batches with mechanical Jacquards.▼
▲A [[factory]] must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule,
==Electronic Jacquard machines==
{{more citations needed|section|date=October 2020}}
It is recorded that in 1855, a Frenchman<ref>[https://archive.org/stream/irishlinentrade00smitgoog#page/n110/mode/2up/ The Irish Linen Trade Hand-Book and Directory]</ref> adapted the Jacquard mechanism to a system by which it could be worked by electro-magnets. There was significant interest, but trials were not successful, and the development was soon forgotten.▼
▲
Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA [[Milan]] in 1983.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Bonas Textile Machinery NV - About Us |url=https://www.bonas.be/en/about-us |access-date= 8 October 2020|website=bonas.be}}</ref>{{efn|According to its operators (CEMATEX, {{lang|fr|Le Comité Européen des Constructeurs de Machines Textiles}}, an organisation comprising 9 national European textile machinery associations) ITMA is "the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition".<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.cematex.com/about-itma | title= About ITMA | website = Cematex.com | access-date= 8 October 2020}}</ref>}} Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends.<ref>{{Cite journal |first=R G|last=Panneerselvam|date=16 Jul 2020|title=Use of indigenous electronic jacquard in handloom for weaving fashionable silk sarees |url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/344151421|journal=Dogo Rangsang Research Journal|volume=10|pages=84|via=UGC Care Group}}</ref> That avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas.{{citation needed|date=October 2020}}▼
▲Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA [[Milan]] in 1983.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Bonas Textile Machinery NV - About Us |url=https://www.bonas.be/en/about-us |access-date=
[[Linen]] products associated with Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics and damask bed linen. Jacquard weaving uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Jacquard weaving can also be used to create fabrics that have a [[Matelassé]] or a [[brocade]] pattern.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Jacquard Fabric — What Is a Jacquard? - Sailrite|url=https://www.sailrite.com/What-Is-a-Jacquard|access-date=2020-09-16|website=www.sailrite.com}}</ref> Research is under way{{when|date=October 2020}}{{update inline|date=October 2020}} to develop layered and shaped items as reinforcing components for structures made from [[composite material]]s.{{citation needed|date=October 2020}}▼
▲[[Linen]] products associated with Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics and damask bed linen. Jacquard weaving uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Jacquard weaving can also be used to create fabrics that have a [[Matelassé]] or a [[brocade]] pattern.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Jacquard Fabric — What Is a Jacquard? - Sailrite|url=https://www.sailrite.com/What-Is-a-Jacquard|access-date=2020-09-16|website=www.sailrite.com}}</ref>
== The woven silk prayer book ==
A pinnacle of production using a Jacquard machine is a prayer book, woven in silk
==Importance in computing==
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|url-access=registration
|url=https://archive.org/details/jacquardswebhowh0000essi
}}</ref> The ability to change the pattern of the loom's weave by simply changing cards was an important conceptual precursor to the development of [[computer programming]] and data entry. [[Charles Babbage]] knew of Jacquard machines and planned to use cards to store programs in his [[Analytical Engine]]. In the late 19th century, [[Herman Hollerith]] took the idea of using punched cards to store information a step further when he created a punched card tabulating machine which he used to input data for the [[1890 U.S. Census]]. A large data processing industry using punched-card technology was developed in the first half of the twentieth century{{mdash}}dominated initially by the [[International Business Machine]] corporation (IBM)
Some early computers, such as the 1944 [[IBM Automatic Sequence Controlled Calculator]] (Harvard Mark I) received program instructions from a paper tape punched with holes, similar to Jacquard's string of cards. Later computers executed programs from higher-speed memory, though cards were commonly used to load the programs into memory. Punched cards remained in use in computing up until the mid-1980s.
==See also==
* [[Thomas Ferguson & Co Ltd]]
==Notes==
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==External links==
{{Sister project links|auto=yes}}
* Posselt, Emanuel A. (1892) [http://lhldigital.lindahall.org/cdm/ref/collection/eng_tech/id/3983 ''The Jacquard machine analyzed and explained: the preparation of Jacquard cards and practical hints to learners of Jacquard designing''] – digital facsimile from the [[Linda Hall Library]]
* [https://Cematex.com CEMATEX], European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (and owners of the ITMA exhibition).
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[[Category:1804 introductions]]
[[Category:French inventions]]
[[Category:Art history]]
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