Jacquard machine: Difference between revisions

[[File:A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland.jpg|thumb|330px|A Jacquard loom showing information punchcards, National Museum of Scotland]]▼

The '''Jacquard machine''' ({{IPA-fr|ʒakaʁ|lang}}) is a device fitted to a [[loom]] that simplifies the process of manufacturing [[textiles]] with such complex patterns as [[brocade]], [[damask]] and [[matelassé]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.christinalynn.com/fabric-glossary.shtml |title=Fabric Glossary |access-date=2008-11-21 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090105170019/http://www.christinalynn.com/fabric-glossary.shtml |archive-date=January 5, 2009 }}</ref> The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a '''Jacquard loom'''. The machine was patented by [[Joseph Marie Jacquard]] in 1804,<ref>Eric Hobsbawm, "The Age of Revolution", (London 1962; repr. 2008), p.45.</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Schoenherr |first=Steven |title=Jacquard's Punched Card |url=http://www.aes-media.org/historical/html/recording.technology.history/jacquard1.html |access-date=2022-06-18 |website=www.aes-media.org}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last= |first= |title=The Jacquard Mechanism: Innovation |url=https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/the-jacquard-mechanism-innovation |access-date=2022-06-18 |website=Macclesfield Museums |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Keranen |first=Rachel |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BHdmDwAAQBAJ&q=%22jacquard%20loom%22%201804 |title=Inventions in Computing: From the Abacus to Personal Computers |date=2016 |publisher=Cavendish Square Publishing, LLC |isbn=978-1-5026-2301-0 |pages=41–43 |language=en}}</ref> based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen [[Basile Bouchon]] (1725), Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728), and [[Jacques Vaucanson]] (1740).<ref>[[Jacquard loom#RAZY|C. Razy]] p.120 (1913)</ref> The machine was controlled by a "chain of cards"; a number of [[punched card]]s laced together into a continuous sequence.<ref>{{cite journal ▼

|url= https://books.google.com/books?id=ElUEAAAAQAAJ&q=%22chain+of+cards%22 ▼

|last1= Newton |first1= William }}</ref> Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card, with one complete card corresponding to one row of the design. ▼

Both the Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor. This mechanism is probably one of the most important [[weaving]] innovations as Jacquard [[shedding (loom)|shedding]] made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of complex pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning. The process can also be used for patterned knitwear and machine-knitted textiles, such as [[jersey (fabric)|jersey]]s.<ref>{{cite book|last=Parrillo Chapman|first=Lisa|title=Textile Design Engineering Within the Product Shape|year=2008|isbn=978-1109003987|pages=69–70|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=QaHxO8qgZFYC&q=jacquard+knitting&pg=PA69}}</ref>▼

Originally the Jacquard machines were [[machine|mechanical]], and the fabric design was stored in a series of [[punched card]]s which were joined to form a continuous chain. The Jacquards often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats, and hence larger designs could be woven across the loom width.▼

A [[factory]] must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule the more warp control required the greater the expense. So it is not economical to purchase Jacquard machines if one can make do with a [[Dobby loom|dobby mechanism]]. As well as the capital expense, the Jacquard machines are more costly to maintain, as they are complex and require higher skilled personnel; an expensive design system is required to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly a card-cutting machine. Weaving is more costly since Jacquard mechanisms are more likely to produce faults than dobby or cam shedding. Also, the looms will not run as quickly and down-time will increase because it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. For these reasons it is best to weave larger batches with mechanical Jacquards.▼

It is recorded that in 1855, a Frenchman<ref>[https://archive.org/stream/irishlinentrade00smitgoog#page/n110/mode/2up/ The Irish Linen Trade Hand-Book and Directory]</ref> adapted the Jacquard mechanism to a system by which it could be worked by electro-magnets. There was significant interest, but trials were not successful, and the development was soon forgotten.▼

Bonas Textile Machinery NV launched the first successful electronic Jacquard at ITMA [[Milan]] in 1983.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Bonas Textile Machinery NV - About Us |url=https://www.bonas.be/en/about-us |access-date= 8 October 2020|website=bonas.be}}</ref>{{efn|According to its operators (CEMATEX, {{lang|fr|Le Comité Européen des Constructeurs de Machines Textiles}}, an organisation comprising 9 national European textile machinery associations) ITMA is "the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition".<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.cematex.com/about-itma | title= About ITMA | website = Cematex.com | access-date= 8 October 2020}}</ref>}} Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends.<ref>{{Cite journal |first=R G|last=Panneerselvam|date=16 Jul 2020|title=Use of indigenous electronic jacquard in handloom for weaving fashionable silk sarees |url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/344151421|journal=Dogo Rangsang Research Journal|volume=10|pages=84|via=UGC Care Group}}</ref> That avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas.{{citation needed|date=October 2020}}▼