Climbing injuries: Difference between revisions

Injuries in [[rock climbing]] may occur due to falls,overuse or due to overusefalls (see [[Sports injury]]). InjuriesHowever, injuries due to falls are relatively uncommon; the vast majority of injuries result from overuse, most often occurring in the fingers, elbows, and shoulders.<ref>{{cite book |title=Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing |last=Hörst |first=Eric J. |authorlink=|coauthors= |year=2003 |publisher=Falcon Publishing |location=Guilford, Connecticut, Helena, Montana |isbn=0-7627-2313-0 |page=151 |pages= |url=http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/ |accessdate=}}</ref> Such injuries are often no worse than torn [[callus]]es, cuts, burns and bruises. However,But overuse symptoms, if ignored, may lead to permanent damage (esp. to [[tendon]]s, [[tendon sheath]]s, [[ligament]]s, and [[joint capsule]]s).

The climbers most prone to overuse injuries are intermediate to expert within lead climbing or bouldering, since these disciplines are the most athletic in nature.<ref>{{cite webjournal |url=http://www.climbing.com.au/Who%20gets%20injured%20in%20the%20gym.pdf |title=Indoor rock climbing: who gets injured? |last1=Wright |first1=D. M. |last2=Royle |first2=T. J. |last3=Marshall |first3=T |journal=British Journal of Sports Medicine |year=2001 |workvolume=35 |issue=3 |pages=181–5 |publisher=Br J Sports Med |accessdatedoi=10.1136/bjsm.35.3.181 |pmid=11375878 |pmc=1724320 |access-date=11 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110218231323/http://www.climbing.com.au/Who%20gets%20injured%20in%20the%20gym.pdf |archive-date=18 February 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

* 5% in the knees

* 5% in the back

One injury that tend to be very common among climbers is [[Carpal tunnel syndrome]]. It is found in about 25% of climbers.<ref name=preston>{{cite web |url=http://www.hughston.com/hha/a.climb.htm |title=Rock Climbing Reaching New Heights |last1=Preston |first1=Dayton |date= |work= |publisher=Hughston health alert|accessdateaccess-date=11 January 2011}}</ref>

604 injured rock climbers were prospectively evaluated from January 1998 to December 2001, due to the rapid growth of new complex finger trauma in the mid-1980s. Of the most frequent injuries, three out of four were related to the fingers: pulley injuries accounted for 20%, tendovaginitis for 7%, and joint capsular damage for 6.1%.<ref>{{cite journal |pmid=12825883 |title=Pulley injuries in rock climbers |last1=Schöffl |first1=V. |last2=Hochholzer |first2=T. |last3=Winkelmann |first3=H.P. |last4=Strecker |first4=W. |date=Summer 2003 |work= |publisher=Wilderness & environmental medicine |volume=14 |issue=2 |journal=Wilderness Environ Med |pages=94–100 |doi=10.1580/1080-6032(2003)014[0094:piirc]2.0.co;2|doi-access=free }}</ref>

The main culprit for pulley related injuries is the common crimp grip, especially in the closed position. The crimp grip requires a near ninety-degree flexion of the middle finger joint, which produces a tremendous force load on the A2 pulley. Injuries to the A2 pulley can range from microscopic to partial tears and, in the worst case, complete ruptures. Some climbers report hearing a pop, which might be a sign of a significant tear or complete rupture, during an extremely heavy move (e.g. tiny crimp, one- or two-finger pocket). Small partial tears, or inflammation can occur over the course of several sessions.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm |title=Finger Tendon Pulley Injury |last1=Hörst |first1=Eric J |year=2008 |work= |publisher=Nicros |accessdateaccess-date=11 January 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090316074336/http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm |archive-date=16 March 2009 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

* '''Grade III''' – Complete rupture of the pulley, causing bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms can include: Pain locally at the pulley (usually sharp), may feel/hear a 'pop' or 'crack', swelling and possible bruising, pain when squeezing or climbing, pain when extending your finger, pain with resisted flexion of the finger.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers |title=DIAGNOSIS: Pulleys |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |work= |publisher= |accessdateaccess-date=11 January 2011}}</ref>

* Stress fractures

* Collateral ligament injuries

Shoulder related injuries include [[rotator cuff]] tear, strain or [[tendinitis]], biceps tendinitis and [[Slap lesion|SLAP lesion]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://climbinginjuries.com/page/shoulders |title=Climbing Injuries: Shoulders |last1=Roseborrough |first1=Aimee |last2=Roseborrough |first2=Kyle |year=2009 |work= |publisher= |accessdateaccess-date=11 January 2011}}</ref>

[[Tennis elbow]] (Lateral Epicondylitis) is a common elbow injury among climbers, as is [[Golfer's elbow]] (Medial Epicondylitis, which is similar, but occurs on the inside of the elbow).{{cn|date=September 2021}}

The use of [[magnesium carbonate]] (chalk) for better grip dries out the skin and can often lead to cracked and damaged hands <ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.kletterretter.com/en/about-us/ |title=Hand cream for rock climbers |website=Kletter Retter |accessdateaccess-date=5 February 2015 |deadurlurl-status=yesdead |archiveurlarchive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150206023238/http://www.kletterretter.com/en/about-us/ |archivedatearchive-date=February 6, 2015 }}</ref>

There are a number of skincare products available for climbers that help to treat calluses, moisturisemoisturize dry hands, and reduce recovery time.

"Any finger injury that is sustained by a young adolescent (12–16) should be seen by a physician and have x-rays performed. These skeletally immature athletes are very susceptible to developing debilitating joint arthritis later in adulthood."<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.athleticadvisor.com/injuries/ue/finger/finger_injuries.htm |title=Finger Injuries |last1=Edell |first1=David |date=24 October 2009 |work= |publisher= |accessdateaccess-date=11 January 2011}}</ref>

** [[Carpal tunnel syndrome]]

** [[Climber's finger]]

** [[Golfer's elbow]]

** [[Repetitive strain injury]]

** [[Radial tunnel syndrome]]

** [[Tennis elbow]]

[[Category:Climbing and health]]